I picked up a 95 c/v for free, (was a drug impound at the local junkyard) and am going to run it in the local Demolition Derby. I was wondering if anyone here has already done so, or if there were any specific weak points to adress. 95 c/v automatic, 5250 gvw 3.3 201,000 miles. Has anyone run their 3.3 out of water, Do they run when dry, for how long before major failure? Does the shift linkage have any issues? I have already welded up the diff, Installed a semi truck trans cooler, Replaced the front bumper with one from a 90 buick, and installed bias snow tires on front. (No weld/chain and go derby) Thanks for any input.

 

So, no one knows if it will run dry like a SBC motor, or a Ford 300-6?

 

If it runs out of water, its not going to be long before any damage.

 

It would be worth checking the shift cable mount to see it can get bent.
Add a brace or guard.

-Run your tires a little flat. Over-inflated tires pop.
-Cut a slot in the gate so you can see when the back flattens out.
-Bypass the heater core.
-replace the serp belt, and protect you right front.
-add a trans cooler, and oil cooler if you can. If/when you loose water, cooler fluids may keep you alive for the extra minute it takes to make the feature.
-remove the hood prop.
-Cut the muffler and converter off
-Remove the air filter box (run a small filter off the throttle body) , it just more crap to bust thing up on the engine if you get caught on the nose.
-Remove the AC coil if there is one.
-If your van has the tow package, you may have a radiator with a long lower hose. Non-tow vans have short lower hose. I'd swap them if you can. (Not sure if the 95-96 are similar in this design)
-spray silicon your ENTIRE wiring harness and coil.
-Remove two of the four screws for the PCM, loosen any wire hold downs near it so it can break free a little rather than break completely. Run an extra ground wire to the case of the PCM.
-MAKE SURE! Your starter, alternator, and battery are in good working order.

I have a few more bits if you're interested.
PinCup

 

Thanks, EZ. I tubed the fronts already, and the rest I am working on. Alt is fried, But, I have a pair of Optima blue top batterys that I installed,(we can run 2 batteries). I run a huge 30,000 lb+ trans cooler into a steel 5 gal bucket filled with ice. I made a heavy bracket to go from the bolt on the left side of the shift cable mount, and bolted it to the trans case bolt just to the left of the cable bracket. As far as the air filter, I fold a red shop rag into 1/4, and use the hose clamp to hold it in place. Cheap. I usually run a Lincoln Towncar every year, and replace the 302 with a 300-6, but couldn't find one in my budget. Cash for clunkers sucked em all up. Got me a 92 ford ranger 5 speed 4 cyl for the compact pickups.

 

EZ
Sounds like you done this before. I would have never thought about everything you wrote.

 

Yes, I've run a derby or two.

me; also run your fuel line coiled in a large coffee can filled with ice.
Cooler fuel atomizes better and therefore make more power.

Your shoprag filter is overkill and may cut performance.
A single thickness of rag should do. Just trying to keep mud out.

If it were me, I'd disable the ABS system. You want your wheels locked tight when you slam reverse. If the trans sees any motion, it may not shift right away.

Cut the parking brake cable, you don't want it to cause you any trouble.

Strategy-
In a suicide start, everyone lines up tail to tail across the field. Green flag back in and take your first shot.
-Option A- run back out to the rail and take your second shot.
-Option B- Wait a second or two and chase your first mate back to his side and push him up onto the rail. If you can get one of his wheels over the rail (my home track used 12" I-beams) he's stuck and out of the race. One down! This does leave your nose exposed to center field so get turned around ASAP! If your track uses barricades, this will still work by smashing him in hard enough to pop his radiator.
-Option C- (My Fav) hook up a kill switch to you ignition or injectors, so you can crank your engine and it will not start. After your first hit, run back out to the rail (make sure you're not being followed ) and play "oh, I've stalled out". Most derby organizers will give you a 10 count to get started again. Watch your neighbor as he heads back in for his second shot. Now fire up and go after him. If you time it right, just as he turns to look forward, he'll see you, WHAM, out goes his radiator. He's done soon enough.

It's fun to push someone up on the rail 10 seconds into the race, but more fun is seeing the look on someone's face as they turn around just before you take them out. Priceless!

Good Luck in your race,
EZ

 

Think It would work to run it thru the trans cooler ice bucket? Went thru the brakes, because I had none, and ran 2 lines, one to each of the front calipers, therefore no ABS any way. Have found that 1 thickness of shoprag can let water in, because the weave is so loose. MASTERTECH, How far can the front be lifted beyond stock height before the halfshafts get pulled out? I can wedge up the front to the extent of the stock shocks or struts. Our start is like this, They back us up to the wall along the grand stand, and wave the green. I usually wait 2-3 seconds, and then go at it hard. Usually qualify at least one for finals, but the caravan and ranger are in special heats that go to the last one running.

 

I wouldn't, it won't take long for the bucket to be overwhelmed and melt off.
Keep the fuel chiller separate and use solid line for your coil.
Two winds is best. We used to use 3/8" fuel line wound soup can tight going down and then coffee sized back up. Fill the coffee can with ice, a cup of salt, some water and wrap the can with an old towel. Poke holes in the top for the fuel lines and tape it on.
I've seen some guys use a small cooler too.
The brine solution will help keep the line super cold and the ice from melting so fast.

I bet that E85 gas would be great for a derby. The high alcohol content would have a cooling effect on the cylinder wall every stroke.
Not much horsepower in it though.

Don't for get the add barrs leak or egg whites to the radiator right before your heat.
Get a full charge on both batteries (I lost a heat once because of a dead battery)

Does your derby make you remove a trailer hitch receiver?
We'd weld ours on to reinforce the rear end. There easy to find in the bone yards and the U-Haul brand is a pretty stout piece.

EZ

 

We'll try the seperate cooler. Unfortunately, all hitches have to come off. Even if a hitch were on it, no welding(visable) is allowed. On a seperate note, it is really amazing how quick this van is with all of the weight stripped out, and a locked diff. I stopwatched it at 7.3 seconds 0-60 with almost no wheelspin at all. That may be because I have a Goodyear ultra grip on one side, and a cooper weathermaster on the other, real soft, and brand new. The Goodyear still has the nubs from the mold on it. Clearance at Walmart $22.00 Oh, and with the fuel, I run a 1/2 qt of amsoil 2 stroke along with the PURE ethanol free premium gas we get up here north of Milwaukee. Seems to keep them from scuffing tight. Worked on the last chevy celebrity wagon I ran. 3.1 and the manifold was glowing before it started on fire. I started the derby with a completely shot head gasket. The water poured out as fast as It was poured into the rad. What finally killed it was not the motor, but the fire melted something on the T.B. and it stuck wide open. Tore the halfshafts completely out of the side of the trans.