Hi guys,

New member here in Edinburgh, Scotland!
I have just bought a 1989 Dodge Caravan High-Top Day Van. It has a few wee issues I am trying to sort out. I was wondering if anyone might be able to shed some light on the instrument panel for me.
Currently, the two gages on the left, which I think are Oil and Water temperature, do not work. When ignition is off, the needles sit about 1/3rd of the way across, but as soon as I turn the key they will shoot off to the left (giving a negative reading), and stay there.

Any ideas on where to start looking? Could it be a bad earth?

Many thanks

 

I'm still trying to believe there is a '89 minivan still on the road.

 

There is a cluster self test proceedure. With the key in the off position, depress the TRIP and RESET buttons. While holding the TRIP and RESET buttons turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Contunue to hold the TRIP and RESET buttons until the word CODE appears in the odometer window (about 5 seconds) then release the buttons. If a problem exsits, a code will be displayed, if no trouble is found, 999 will be displayed.

Check-0 is a vacuum florescent display test. Check-1 is the gauge calibration point test. It moves each gauge through it's entire range. Fuel gauge should go from empty to 1/8 to 1/4 to full. Temp gauge should go from cold to low normal to high normal to hot. If they don't, it is a gauge issue, if they work fine, it is outside of the cluster causing your issue.

 

Thanks for that Tizzy. I don't think my car has a Trip or Reset button though. Where would they be located?

 

Hey Tizzy, look at this blast from your past post...
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-c...t-cluster.html
Now I'm suspecting he has a mechanical cluster, and if so, then it would appear that maybe he should explore the 1992 Body Diagnostics Procedure Manual (Publication No. 81-699-0244)... just a thought from someone who spends too much time searching old posts... Or is that bulletin specifically for 1991 models?

 

Yup, it is an analogue dash. I tried removing it this morning to see if there were any loose wires but it wouldn't come fully out . Felt like it was getting stuck on something so didn't want to force it.
I have taken some photos of some of the wiring in the engine bay, hopefully you may be able to help me identify them. As you will see, the radiator fan has at some point been wired direct, with an ON/OFF switch on the dashboard.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/6439059...7629443363075/

 

It was more for the '91 model, that was the first year for that body style. The '89 is a different system.

 

my bad, went and looked again at the service manual, '89........'98, pretty close, lol. I blame me being an old, blind dufus.


To test the oil pressure gauge, you remove the gauge from the cluster. There are 4 pins, upper, lower, left and right. The lower is not used. Upper pin is ground, the right pin is B+ and the left pin goes to the sending unit. If all pins test correctly, the gauge is in fault or possibly the sending unit. Unplugging the sending unit should make the pointer go to one extreme and grounding it should force the gauge to the other extreme.

Temp gauge is the same deal, upper pin not used, lower pin is ground, right is B+ and left is the sending unit wire. Unplugging the sending unit should make it go to one side and grounding it should make it go to the other.

 

Sorry for the late reply. Finally managed to get the cluster out today and both guages work when tested with a battery. I checked the boards for any bad solder and it all seems fine.
I checked the coolant temperature sensor (next to the thermostat) and it seems to be working. When the key is turned on I am getting 12v through the wire that connects to this sensor.
Still no working guages though. They both sit half way when the engine is off, but as soon as I turn the key they shoot off to the 'Cold' side.
Any ideas where to look next? I am close to giving up and sending it to a mechanic

 

You have 12v going to the temp sensor wire, but you should check the temp sensor itself with an ohm meter to measure it's resistance if it's out of spec it can't hurt to replace it.

Also check this link solder joint may look good but you never really know!

I know this year is different but it might give you a better idea of what to look for.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ha7KXBbP2AY