Part number R4727530AA is the transmission control module and is located in the left front wheel well behind the front bumper. Part number 05102969AB is the PDC or the fuse box under the hood by the battery. Check and make sure you have power at the ASD relay terminals 86 and 87.

 

Bugworks, I've just re-read this thread and realised you don't have a remote FOB capable of locking and alarming a vehicle, in which case the below is of little use to you without the remote fob for your car. However I'm sure you won't mind me posting this as it may help others.

Reference the grey keys, the black 5 button FOBS are what we have in the UK, how do you switch on and off the alarm with a grey key with no buttons to press ? Its the FOB [P/N 68060264AA] not the key that remote locks / unlocks / alarms a vehicle. The grey key will permit entry and permit starting because its coded to the screem module however the module and the key can become divorced simply as a condition of having a battery terminal disconnected. Re-marrying them is easy if you have the black remote key FOB I'm assuming therefore a FOB that locks and alarms a Chrysler :

- disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, your FOB and car are now divorced .. .. then reconnect the battery
- your battery and FOB are now acrimoniously divorced and won't speak to each other

- turn the key to the start POS but do not START the engine
- - - the PUTER will read all BUS's and door locks, do all checks, you will hear lots of clicks

- when the clicks and checks stop lock and unlock the doors FROM the FOB several times
- - - this will re-marry the KEYFOB and the PUTER

- start the car, then stop the engine and lock in the usual way with the KEYFOB - does it work now ?

NOTE01 : When you think you have locked and alarmed etc the vehicle you / it hasn't finished. The vehicle polls the computer BUS for 15 minutes checking windows / doors / radio and lights left on etc. Only then is the alarm fully functioning.

NOTE02 : The internal 'panic lock' button, if you have one - seems, when used, to be a bit of a spurned lover who still has designs on your marriage and will, given an opportunity disrupt communication between the remote FOB and the cars protection system. This has never happened to me but many others have commented on it !

NOTE03 : Tizzy1's comment on the transmission control module, there's a hefty piece of loom goes directly from the TCM to the PCM, through a much too small hole with very sharp edges, on two occasions I've found a RED powered wire chafed through to the bare copper - that might be worth checking.

 

Hello Tizzy and QinteQ

Thanks

Found the loom, but no holes !


Yes, I have power on relay "ASD" terminal 86 & 87.
Tizzy, what is the aluminum ( flat ,about 3/4" ) box facing the front. (attached to the "fuse box")
Is that the part what was replaced ? ( My former owner thinks that what it is, not the complete "fuse Box", is that possible, he is 82 years old, and sometimes forget !!! )

Thanks Bugworks

 

The piece on the front is the front control module. The module and the fuse box are sold as separate pieces. The part number you gave is for the fuse box portion.

 

Thank you

How do I separate the module from the box tocheck for corrosion !
I removed the 4 corner screws, but nothing moves. ( force ???? )

Bugworks

 

Four torx screws and out she comes. Rock it up and down as you pull on it.

 

I had a similar problem with my 97 caravan a few years ago. The van would sometimes not start, no crank. An hour later it would crank and run fine. Turned out to be a bad solder connection on the back of the instrument cluster. Believe it or not, that connection will keep the van from cranking. Your van is from a newer generation, so issue may be different. If you do some google searches about "caravan instrument cluster no start" I think you will find references to what I'm talking about.

 

Thank you Tizzy, yes that worked.
Everything is clean, no corrosion, put it back together, still no power to starter solenoid.

Bugworks

 

Try banging REALLY hard on the dash above the instrument panel. If it starts after you do that, it will indicate a bad solder connection on the back of the instrument cluster.

 

What about air bags ?

Bugworks