Hello everybody

This morning I went out to the van to grab some tools, I had left in the van for later use..

Thinking about the "banging", I decided to give it a try.
I inserted the key and turned it (by mistake) in the "start" position. I couldn't believe my ears.

The darn thing started and stayed running.

I tried it several times, it worked every time.

I did not bang anything, the last thing I did was to remove the aluminum
box in front of the fuse box, checked it for corrosion and reassembled the thing.
All control lights in the cluster are gone, exept for the seatbelt and the open drivers door.

Could that be a moisture issue, it is dry and hot for the last 3 days. But where to start looking?

What now, I probably will never know what the real problem was !!!!
I don't like to drive arround, knowing that this could happen again any time soon.
But, what can I do ????? Any ideas ??

Thanks to everybody

Bugworks

 

@Bugworks, I had the same issue with my 97 caravan over a period of about 3 years. Occasionally it wouldn't start, turn the key and nothing, but an hour or so later it would start right up. Happened on average once a month. Very frustrating and usually happened at the worst possible time. Later I learned that banging on the dash above the instrument cluster would sometimes make it start without waiting. After reading somewhere about the problem with solder connection on the back of the instrument cluster I was able to fix it. You need to remove the instrument cluster (not easy to do I know). On the back of the instrument cluster is a socket connector that the vehicle wiring harness connects to. That socket connector is soldered to the instrument cluster. Remove the circuit board from the instrument cluster so that you can examine the back of the circuit board. Use a very strong magnifying glass to examine the solder connections and you should find one that is cracked. Reheat it with a soldering iron and you should be good to go. I added a bit more solder when I did mine. This procedure fixed my van and it has been starting reliably for about 3 years now. Alternatively you can just go to the junk yard and get another instrument cluster. I know that your van is a newer generation than mine, but I hope this also works for you. Please follow up with a reply to let me know if this helped. Thank You.

 

The cluster solder joint issue applies to 3rd generation vans. Not yours Bugworks.

As stated previously the FCM (Front Control Module) is that silver box you found on front of the IPM. I found this narrative description on another forum some time ago. Thought it might come in handy some day. It describes it's function, inputs, outputs and how to remove and replace it:

FRONT CONTROL MODULE DESCRIPTION
The Front Control Module (FCM) is a micro controller
based module located in the engine compartment.
This FCM mates to the power distribution
center to form the Integrated Power Module (IPM).
The IPM connects directly to the battery and provides
the primary means of circuit protection and
power distribution for all vehicle electrical systems.
The FCM controls power to some of these vehicle systems
electrical and electromechanical loads based on
inputs received from hard wired switch inputs and
data received on the Programmable Communications
Interface (PCI) data bus.

As messages are sent over the Programmable Communications
Interface (PCI) data bus, the Front Control
Module (FCM) reads these messages and controls
power to some of the vehicles electrical systems by
completing the circuit to ground (low side driver) or
completing the circuit to 12 volt power (high side
driver).

The following functions are controlled by the Front Control Module:

Accessory Relay Actuation
Brake Transmission Shift Interlock Functions(BTSI)
Diesel Cabin Heater (Diesel Engine Vehicles)
Electronic Back Light (EBL) Rear Defogger
Electronic Transaxle (Gasoline engine Vehicles)
Front and Rear Blower Motor Relay Actuation
Front Fog Lamp Relay Actuation
Front Washer Motor
Front Windshield Wiper “HI” & “LO” Relay Actuation
Front Windshield Wiper “ON” Relay Actuation
Headlamp Power with Voltage Regulation
Horn Relay Actuation
Headlamp Washer Relay Actuation
Name Brand Speaker (NBS) Relay Actuation
Occupant Restraint Controller Voltage
Park Lamp Relay Actuation
Rear Washer Motor
Side Airbag Voltage

The following inputs are Received/Monitored by the Front Control Module:

Ambient Temperature Sensing
Back-Up switch
Brake Fluid Level
B+ Connection Detection
Engine Crank Signal (Diesel Engine Vehicles)
Horn Input
Ignition Switch Start Only
Ignition Switch Run and Start Only
Stop Lamp Sense
Washer Fluid Level
Windshield Wiper Park


REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the positive and negative battery
cables from the battery.
(2) Remove the battery from the vehicle. Refer to
the procedure in Battery Systems.
(3) Using a long flat-bladed screwdriver, gently
twist the Integrated Power Module (IPM) retaining
clip outboard to free the IPM from its mounting
bracket (Fig. 6). Rotate IPM upward to access the
Front Control Module (FCM) retaining screws.
(4) Remove the front control module retaining
screws.
(5) Using both hands, pull the FCM straight from
the IPM assembly to disconnect the 49-way electrical
connector (Fig. 7) and remove the front control module
from the vehicle.

INSTALLATION
NOTE: Front Control Module must be programmed
to the correct radio EQ curve using the DRB IIIT.
This will ensure that the audio system is operating
correctly.
(1) Install the Front Control Module (FCM) in the
Integrated Power Module (IPM) assembly by pushing
the 49-way electrical connector straight in.
(2) Install the FCM retaining screws. Torque the
screws to 1 N·m (7 in. lbs).
(3) Rotate the IPM assembly downward to secure
in mounting bracket.
(4) Install the battery in the vehicle. Refer to the
procedure in Battery Systems.
(5) Connect the positive and negative battery
cables.
(6) Using the DRB III t, under “FRONT CONTROL
MODULE” then “MISC” program the EQ
curve of the radio into the Front Control Module.
Refer to the appropriate diagnostic manual.

Reading through this it appears it's possible the FCM or at least it's connection was the culprit in your situation. That connection is a known problem area. If it shows up again you know where to look first.

 

Hello
After a good rainstorm, this morning, "No Luck", the engine cranked , but did not start.
I guess it was to early to celebrate. Don't know what to do now.

Thanks to all
Bugworks

 

Did you ever check the connections on the bottom of the PDC?

 

Yes Tizzy1
All are clean, no signs of corrosion !
Moved them in and out a couple of times.

Thanks
Bugworks

 

I have a 2002 dodge ram 1500 and my question is this. my wipers horn and lights start going off at different times like when driving or at idle or at a red light and it is very embarrassing. does anyone have any tips for me

 

Yep, the TIPM's in those were know issues as well. Disconnect and check for corrosion issues in the connectors.