Ok so we are at 18,000 miles on our 2011 and on the 3rd set of front rotors (thankfully under extended warranty). The rears are now in need at a cost of just under $400....does anyone know if Dodge helps with the cost? The dealer said there is nothing they could do (in fairness they have been wonderful about trying to help us)

Do any of the techs or enthusiasts know of ANY fix available that won't cost me my first born child? ha-ha

We love the van but are not going to be able to afford these repairs every few thousand miles....Aftermarket maybe?

I searched the threads and didn't see anything news....thanks everyone

 

I have an '08 T&C LX with the 16" wheels. The front pads and rotors were replaced at maybe 30K miles for $100 goodwill. It wasn't a recall, but Chrysler knew that had a problem with short life. Still going fine at near 60K miles now. The rear calipers, pads, rotors were replaced at maybe 40K miles due to a stuck caliper, on my dime about $750. Now at 60K the rear is starting to whistle again, could be the rear brakes are shot again. I read somewhere that the rears have gone through a design revision due to calipers sticking. Brakes are definitely a weak point on these vans. Regardless, your brakes are wearing very fast, maybe you do a lot more town driving than we do.

As you suggested, I'd look into getting a reputable brand replacement rotor and pad set, not the no name Chinese pot metal stuff or the overpriced slotted/drilled racer stuff. I haven't had to go that route yet so don't have any recommendations.

 

I saw threads discussing TSB kits for rears in later years. This related to a clearance issue that involved some hardware modification kit.

 

I found folks online saying that the plastic pins in the calipers are the root of the evil.. that sound probable?

 

I don't think Dodge uses plastic pin sleeves as some mfrs did long ago. This is a list of the parts that most lazy mechanics do not bother to service when they replace pads and rotors on the 2008 to 2012 Grand Caravan (same applies to many other yrs too).

Item #1 allows the pads to freely move to apply braking pressure or release/retract when the brake pedal is released. Item #2 and #3 allow the floating caliper to self-center and adjust for pad wear, in addition to allowing the outer pad to retract from the rotor when the brake pedal is released. All these parts must be in perfect condition and properly lubricated to ensure proper brake function and avoid premature wear:

1) These are the rear brackets that have a machined groove in them. Each bracket has two grooves to hold both pads in position. A clip fits into each groove under the pad backing plate, allowing the inner and outer pads to freely slide toward the rotor or away from it. The machined bracket grooves may rust underneath the clips. This leads to a rust packout issue which basically remove adequate clearances and pinches the pad metal backing plate with so much force that it can no longer release, slide or move when the brake pedal is released. The grooves must be cleaned out with a suitable scraper or screwdriver.

http://www.cardone.com/Products/Prod...=141257&p=rock

2) These are the floating caliper pins that must be free of any rust and well lubricated. This kit is for one wheel. These pins are sealed inside rubber boots and slide into a precision fit holes in the caliper body. These pins are invariably neglected by mechanics too lazy to clean and grease them. they are not made of stainless steel so they rust. The rubber boot covers often have cracks or holes in them, allowing water to reach the pin .If the pin has any rust on it, then crud in the pin mating holes in the caliper body must be gently reamed out with a drill bit of proper size (slightly smaller than the hole). Use your fingers to spin the drill bit by hand, not a drill. Flush any debris out of the pin hole before greasing it.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...214&cc=1441238

3) These are the clips that fit between the pad backing plate and caliper bracket that allow the pads to freely slide to disengage. These clips rust quickly because they are not made of stainless. If these clips rust too much, the pads will not release when the brake pedal is released. Many pad kits do not include these clips. Also these clips trap water behind them, causing rust packout in the pad grooves machined into the caliper bracket (in #1 above). The lower grooves in the bracket rust the worst. The rubber boots seal the pin and mating hole from water and keep the grease inside, assuming anyone bothers to grease them. These rubber boots fail from heat and age.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...318&cc=1441238

PS: From a floating caliper and pad retention design & servicing standpoint, the exact same issues and components (shown in #1 thru #3 above) also apply to the front brake system.

 

On front brakes, here's the latest TSB from Chrysler.

http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice...n-or-vibration

 

Interesting info on the TSB for 2011-2012 DG built before March 30,2012. Lower control arms need to be replaced using a revised front right control arm part #04766910AK, and a left front part # 04766911A. The new revised rotors, and brake pads won't fix the issue without replacing the control arms.

 

I just had the front rotors and pads done at the dealer but they didn't mention any tsb....can I search to see if my vehicle qualifies? We bought it June 2011

 

I would call the dealership, and mention (TSB) 05-002-13 dated Feb 22, 2013 provided by RickMN to see if they can help you address the brake pedal pulsation / vibration. Chrysler obviously knows about the braking problem, and this is the fix they came up with to fix the problem.

 

I have a 2010 no pulsation in the brake peddle but I do have a shaking steering wheel when braking. wounder if it still applies?