[5th Gen : 08+]: 2010 Caravan Rear Door Window Rattle
Hello folks, new member, first post.
Just picked up a 2010 Grand Caravan 3.3 4 speed.
Love the vehicle so far, nice and smooth, 94,000 kms on it (55,000 miles)
One issue - the sliding doors, when I lower the windows 1/4 of the way down, rattle incessantly over small bumps.
Is there a simple fix anyone's aware of?
Cheers,
Mr. Ted
Just picked up a 2010 Grand Caravan 3.3 4 speed.
Love the vehicle so far, nice and smooth, 94,000 kms on it (55,000 miles)
One issue - the sliding doors, when I lower the windows 1/4 of the way down, rattle incessantly over small bumps.
Is there a simple fix anyone's aware of?
Cheers,
Mr. Ted
Hello folks, new member, first post.
Just picked up a 2010 Grand Caravan 3.3 4 speed.
Love the vehicle so far, nice and smooth, 94,000 kms on it (55,000 miles)
One issue - the sliding doors, when I lower the windows 1/4 of the way down, rattle incessantly over small bumps.
Is there a simple fix anyone's aware of?
Cheers,
Mr. Ted
Just picked up a 2010 Grand Caravan 3.3 4 speed.
Love the vehicle so far, nice and smooth, 94,000 kms on it (55,000 miles)
One issue - the sliding doors, when I lower the windows 1/4 of the way down, rattle incessantly over small bumps.
Is there a simple fix anyone's aware of?
Cheers,
Mr. Ted
Welcome to the forum! We have a lot of great members here who are always looking to help each other out.
In regards to your rattle concern, do both driver and passenger side rattle over the bumps?
In some cases, a foam can be applied to help with the rattling heard. Have you had a chance to speak with your dealer?
Seems to be the same rattle on both sides - only when the rear sliding door windows are down by %25, they both rattle (fairly low freq) when going over small bumps.
Once the windows are fully up or fully down, the rattles disappear.
I haven't taken it to a dealer yet - just looking for a hopefully easy solution if this turns out to be a common problem.
Thanks,
Mr. Ted
Once the windows are fully up or fully down, the rattles disappear.
I haven't taken it to a dealer yet - just looking for a hopefully easy solution if this turns out to be a common problem.
Thanks,
Mr. Ted
Seems to be the same rattle on both sides - only when the rear sliding door windows are down by %25, they both rattle (fairly low freq) when going over small bumps.
Once the windows are fully up or fully down, the rattles disappear.
I haven't taken it to a dealer yet - just looking for a hopefully easy solution if this turns out to be a common problem.
Thanks,
Mr. Ted
Once the windows are fully up or fully down, the rattles disappear.
I haven't taken it to a dealer yet - just looking for a hopefully easy solution if this turns out to be a common problem.
Thanks,
Mr. Ted
It seems as though a quick test-drive would allow the dealer to experience the rattle with the windows at that level and pinpoint the source. The Service Dept. will be able to inform you of the labour time involved to address the concern. Be sure to speak with the Service Manager.
No, the whole point of posting this here is to determine whether this is a common problem, and whether there is a straightforward fix.
Taking it to the dealer is easy. Anyone can do that. That's what most people do. The point of posting this question here is to determine if this is something that others have run into.
I'm not sure what the value is of saying, "If you have a problem, pay the dealer to tell you what it is."
These online communities can help people learn from each others' experience.
Mr. Ted
Taking it to the dealer is easy. Anyone can do that. That's what most people do. The point of posting this question here is to determine if this is something that others have run into.
I'm not sure what the value is of saying, "If you have a problem, pay the dealer to tell you what it is."
These online communities can help people learn from each others' experience.
Mr. Ted
Mr. Ted - I've been on automotive forums for many years. I'm registered with six as we speak. Over the years of reading forum threads one commonly reported event has been customers getting that "deer in the headlights look" from dealerships when describing a particular problem meaning they've never heard of it before, despite the fact said problem has been discussed ad infinatum on various forums. I'm hoping DodgeCACares, a Chrysler LLC representative, is an attempt by Chrysler to monitor forums to remedy that common complaint. Yes, he does regularly tote the Chrysler PR line and sometimes irritatingly so but, lets hope there's a double edge to his sword. It won't happen overnight but maybe, just maybe he will help to open Chrysler's eyes to the real world out here beyond the shops. There is one other forum with a Chrysler rep on it. Wish they all had one.
On your rattle, I don't recall another thread concerning it. No doubt you plan on pulling one of the door trim panels to investigate. Probably have a control rod or wire harness hitting the window or door structure when it's partially down. Course I'm not telling you something you don't already know.
On your rattle, I don't recall another thread concerning it. No doubt you plan on pulling one of the door trim panels to investigate. Probably have a control rod or wire harness hitting the window or door structure when it's partially down. Course I'm not telling you something you don't already know.
Last edited by Cougar41; Jun 15, 2014 at 02:44 PM.
Here is some information that may help.
1) Lower the glass fully and remove the rear door glass run seal by starting at the~ header, then working down the pillars. Pull straight up when removing the seal remaining below beltline (Glass or Appliqué removal is not required).2) Cut the high density foam to create 2 strips with dimension 1/8” X 1/2" X 6”.Note: Each piece of foam tape as received will make 3 strips - only two strips are needed per door. 3) Clean the glass run seal under the large main lip at the top of the B and C pillar regions with alcohol.4) Remove the release paper from the foam tape.5) Top of B-Pillar: Splay the glass run seal main inboard lip open and position one piece of tape vertically starting at the bottom of the corner mold joint under the lip working downward. Keep the tape as close as possible to the base of the lip where the lip hinges .Note: The tape should NOT be applied to the back of the lip. This can cause a problem with the adhesive of the tape potentially contacting the glass! Instead, it must be applied to the side wall of the seal UNDER the lip so that the lip will touch the foam surface of the tape providing support when there is glass movement.6) Top of C-Pillar: Same as above.Note: Both B and C pillars must have the foam tape applied regardless if the noise is~ greater at one pillar compared to the other.7) Reinstall the seal by applying soapy water solution to the lower areas of the seal~ the go below beltline.8) Insert the seal at the B and C-Pillars below beltline, then insert the B and C-Pillars~ at the upper corners. Work around the seal to make sure the garnish lip is not puckered and that it is fully seated deep into the channel. A fiber stick is recommended for this.9) Spray silicone to the glass run seal where the glass tracks - both pillars.
1) Lower the glass fully and remove the rear door glass run seal by starting at the~ header, then working down the pillars. Pull straight up when removing the seal remaining below beltline (Glass or Appliqué removal is not required).2) Cut the high density foam to create 2 strips with dimension 1/8” X 1/2" X 6”.Note: Each piece of foam tape as received will make 3 strips - only two strips are needed per door. 3) Clean the glass run seal under the large main lip at the top of the B and C pillar regions with alcohol.4) Remove the release paper from the foam tape.5) Top of B-Pillar: Splay the glass run seal main inboard lip open and position one piece of tape vertically starting at the bottom of the corner mold joint under the lip working downward. Keep the tape as close as possible to the base of the lip where the lip hinges .Note: The tape should NOT be applied to the back of the lip. This can cause a problem with the adhesive of the tape potentially contacting the glass! Instead, it must be applied to the side wall of the seal UNDER the lip so that the lip will touch the foam surface of the tape providing support when there is glass movement.6) Top of C-Pillar: Same as above.Note: Both B and C pillars must have the foam tape applied regardless if the noise is~ greater at one pillar compared to the other.7) Reinstall the seal by applying soapy water solution to the lower areas of the seal~ the go below beltline.8) Insert the seal at the B and C-Pillars below beltline, then insert the B and C-Pillars~ at the upper corners. Work around the seal to make sure the garnish lip is not puckered and that it is fully seated deep into the channel. A fiber stick is recommended for this.9) Spray silicone to the glass run seal where the glass tracks - both pillars.
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Thank you to both of you for those detailed replies.
At least I have an idea now what it may entail.
It's not too annoying, but because the 2010 is "new" to me, I wanted to hunt down all annoyances.
Cheers,
Mr. Ted
At least I have an idea now what it may entail.
It's not too annoying, but because the 2010 is "new" to me, I wanted to hunt down all annoyances.
Cheers,
Mr. Ted



