I'm wondering if one of the Mopar mechanics on here can tell me if it's feasible to replace the front rotors and calipers on my 2011 RT Caravan with the larger 2012 and-up front brakes? Will it also need different flexi lines at the caliper? Is it all the same at the master cylinder? Same at the spindle? I'm hoping I can just get the parts from the dealer, install them and move on. Thanks!
Gene

 

Why would you do that? Are you aware the wheels differ too?

 

I agree, you may have some other problems. Like the caliper not fitting on the spindle or the wheel rubbing on the rotor.

 

Just an FYI:

Can not post a link to another forum web site. But here is the information the member wanted you to see.

Cardone part #s for right front and right rear calipers:

2011 Front Right
OE Phenolic Piston;Supplied w/Mounting Bracket 18-B5045

2011 Rear Right
OE Metal Piston;Supplied w/Mounting Bracket 18-B5080

2012 Front Right
Exc. Limited
OE Phenolic Piston;Supplied w/Mounting Bracket 18-B5045

2012 Front Right
Limited
OE Phenolic Piston;Supplied w/Mounting Bracket 18-B5403

2012 Rear Right
Exc. Limited; Before 3/24/12
OE Metal Piston;Supplied w/Mounting Bracket 18-B5080

2012 Rear Right
Exc. Limited; From 3/24/12
OE Metal Piston;Supplied w/Mounting Bracket 18-B5488

2012 Rear Right
Limited
OE Metal Piston;Supplied w/Mounting Bracket 18-B5398

2013 Front Right
Exc. Limited
OE Phenolic Piston;Supplied w/Mounting Bracket 18-B5045

2013 Front Right
Limited
OE Phenolic Piston;Supplied w/Mounting Bracket 18-B5403

2013 Rear Right
Exc. Limited
OE Metal Piston;Supplied w/Mounting Bracket 18-B5488

2013 Rear Right
Limited
OE Metal Piston;Supplied w/Mounting Bracket 18-B5398

 

My 2011 GCaravan RT wheels are 17 inch. Pretty much the same wheel as the later models. What I see in mine is tons of room for bigger rotors and calipers. The "why" is because I'm wearing these down quickly and warping the rotors... and I drive like an old man so it's not me.

You bring up good points though and I think I will try one of my wheels on a newer van to be sure they will fit.

Thanks for the link SafetyDaveG.

My 2011


A 2013 on the lot...

 

Before the HD update, the smaller front brakes are hit and miss. Some owners have issues, some don't. We have had no issues with the fronts on our '08 T&C, although, they were replaced once under 'goodwill' and I forget the reason why (premature wear?) but even then the brakes were working fine. The van is nearing 80K miles now. The rears are another story altogether. Replaced once by the dealer at our cost (rotors, pads, calipers). Replaced twice by me since then (rotors, pads). The root cause is a poor fit of the pad (too tight) causing the pad to drag on the rotor. This last time, I really went to town with a grinder on the pad backing plate and made sure the pad is good and loose in the caliper bracket.

 

I believe someone on this forum had made a conversion with OE parts, but I can't seem to find the post. But he did it because he has to tow a trailer, and the smaller brake would not cut it on hilly area.


It cost him total or 1100 ish, I believe. Just pad, rotors, calipers, Fluid, and brackets. Don't forget 17"+ rims if you don't have it alrdy.

 

Ok, here's why I asked:

You are wearing your rear brakes down quickly because the pads are sticking in the caliper brackets due to improperly machined brackets (slightly oversize). This factory flaw (insufficient clearance) surfaced sometime during running production in 2009 or so. While the pads on my 2008 were quite snug on the brackets they were not "stuck" due to the brackets. I found my slider pins were rusted and sticking after buying my van used. It was glaringly obvious that the boot seals were never replaced and the pins were never greased in the first 80K mi. Factory service manual specifies that pin inspection and re-lubrication is necessary EVERY brake job.

As for your van, the brakes are continuously dragging, being fried like an egg in a skillet. This is more than likely due to the notorious factory-defective caliper mounting brackets. You may also have rusted pins needing grease, I don't know. In addition to replacing both $35 brackets (right and left side) you also need to replace the $3 rubber seals on the slider pins and grease the slider pins during every single brake job. If you don't grease the assembly per service manual instructions the pins will rust solidly into the bracket holes and prevent the floating caliper from floating. This leads to outer pad wearout and rotor warpage. The vast majority of mechanics skip the lube & rust/scale clean-up step to save 15 minutes labor. It keeps them busy with business. Many folks choose to reuse the anti-rattle clips that serve as shims between the pad backing plate and caliper bracket. That is totally nuts because they cost about $6. They rust and must be replaced to avoid clearance/jambing issues.

Chysler released the revised brackets with new part#. Caliper mounting brackets cost $35 each in the aftermarket, more thru Chrysler.

If I owned your van I would be spending $70-80 to repair it properly in a couple hours, not $1500 and one or more weekends of work. Folks have been throwing new pads and rotors at the rear of these vans over and over again. This is a perfect recipe for failure because it does not address root cause. This only cooks perfectly good parts within a week or two.

I would only be considering an upgrade to larger brakes if I was towing a 4K lb boat on a regular basis. The 12" solid rear rotors are not exactly beefy but assuming the brakes are not stuck on from defective caliper brackets or lack of grease, they are more than adequate for a multi-use minivan. This is true even if loaded to the roof with cargo. With properly-lubricated floating pin assembly and proper bracket clearances, my rear pads last approx 35K miles and the rear rotors are good for two pad cycles. The rear pads with lifetime warranty are sold at Autozone and bendix rear rotors are $19 thru rockauto. don't forget new rubber boots and anti-rattle clips!!!!

 

well whats better the Chrysler or aftermarket brackets? any differences? I had one stuck pin due to rust. thing is I serviced them like 1 month prior so don't see how it would rust. need order new pins, boots, caliper brackets.

 

The aftermarket brackets are remanufactured factory brackets. The dealership will have the latest part# for top dollar. That would be the best source if you don't understand how to check the clearances between the bracket, anti-rattle clips and pad backing plates to ensure they're adequate. The pads must be able to freely slide toward and away from the rotor surface with almost no finger pressure. A 10 year old girl should be able to slide the pads against the rotor using her thumb and forefinger. If they are binding or tight something is not right. Systems that are rusted up or brackets clearances too tight generally need a prying tool to move the pads (bad).


A pin will surely not rust up and stick within weeks unless it is immersed in salt water or acid, so I have no clue?.!? From my experience, clean pins and fresh boots will remain grease-covered and sliding freely for a full brake wear cycle which for me could be ~50K mi or 3 yrs.


Here's how to properly service pin slider assembly:


remove the pins and rubber boots from the caliper. Take the pin and test fit it into storage holes in your electric drill bit kit until you find the 1st hole which it won't slide into. Take that drill bit (which will be slightly smaller than the pin diameter) and use it as a hand reamer to clean the gunk & rust out of the pin slider holes. Just twirl it with your fingers. The rust issue is two-fold, pins rust and pin holes rust. Twist paper towel into the hole like a pipe cleaner to clean it thoroughly. You could use a Q-tip and kerosene if you want to get fancy. Clean the old pins with an electric grinder with stainless wire wheel mounted or buy new pins. At this point the dry pin should freely slide in the hole with no friction whatsoever. Coat lithium white grease on the pin, some in hole and also inside boot and reassemble. Do not overload the boots to the point of oozing out but apply liberally. The pins will move freely when done....aside from being sealed so well it works like a pump. This grease application should last at least 3 years assuming the boots are fresh and properly installed. Many boots have hairline cracks in them after seeing 50K mi or so. Over time, rubber does not tolerate 500 degree F temps or more. The accordion boots when cracked will breath & suck water in when applying brakes, so they must be in good condition to keep water out. NEVER reuse boots on any vehicle. Shops do it, I haven't for 30 yrs.


The aftermarket pins. boot seals and anti-rattle clip kits are cheap as dirt on rockauto. I keep spare sets in my garage for brake jobs on all my cars. Order exact replacement wiper blades thru them while you're at it for about $4 each. You can't beat their bendix premium rotors for $19 each.