I have a 2006 carvan that is converted to right hand drive using a postal kit. original steering wheel replaced with a pully with a belt to drive from the right side. Original left drivers seat removed. The seat belt chime drives me crazy. Does anyone know which wires under the original drivers seat that i can wire together to make this stop? Any help is appreciated.

 

 

The shop that installed was not a shop that went to that much detail. I would not recommend them. I see those 2 wires attached to a plastic connector. perhaps I'll try cutting them & wire nutting together?

 

i wonder which green wires? large connector or small?

 

I took a closer look at the wiring diagram - it actually says light green/gray stripe and light green/tan stripe for the wires to seat belt. If you have the same color wires on both, I'm betting it's the 2 pin connector.

Also, I couldn't find anything definitive, but the switch in the seat belt is going to work one of 2 ways - it's either normally open and closes when the seat belt is latched, or it's normally closed and opens when the seat belt is latched.

What I recommend is turning the key on and cutting one of the wires - if the light/chime doesn't go off, then it's normally open and closes when the belt is latched, in which case you wouldn't want to splice them together - you'd just want to leave the one wire cut and cap it somehow.

If you do have to splice them together, I don't recommend wire nuts - they're not intended for automotive use and will work loose over time. A butt connector or splice cap would be best, especially if you have one that uses heat shrink to seal the splice.

 

I tried both of your suggestions with the 2 wire pig tail with no success. The chime does stop after driving for a couple miles at say 45 miles per hour....however i have to make frequent stop & shut the vehicle off then the chimes starts all over again & last for hours!!!

 

Okay, so I did some more digging through service information on this. I apologize for the sloppy work before - I simply glanced at the wiring diagram without going any further.

The seat belt switch is described as a hall effect switch - the ORC sends a reference voltage to the buckle (doesn't specify how much, but likely 5 or 8 volts) and expects to see a certain voltage drop across the switch when the seat belt is buckled. If the voltage is outside that limit, the chime/light will go off.

The ORC will tell the instrument cluster to turn on the light/chime via data circuit, so disabling the chime is out. Here's a few possibilities, but because the attempt here is to fool the ORC into believing the seat belt is buckled, I can't gaurantee they'll work.

1) You can probably take it to a dealer and have it re-programmed to disable the chime. No idea on cost - you'd have to get a quote.

2) I'm guessing you don't have the original seat belt buckle, so buy a new seat belt buckle, hook it up, and latch the seat belt.

3) Find out what the ORC wants to see for a voltage drop. With the key on, use a meter and back probe the connector at the passenger seat belt with it unbuckled. Note the voltage on both pins (one will be reference, the other will be the ground/return circuit to the ORC). Then buckle the seat belt and check the voltages again, taking note of the voltage readings on both pins - one should be the same, the other should be lower. Again, I can't tell you exactly what they'll be, but for example if it's a 5 volt reference, you'd want to see less than that going back to the ORC.

Repeat this process with any other operational seat belts in the vehicle - what you're trying to find out is whether or not the voltage drop is the same for all the seat belts or whether it's different for each one. Minor changes mean they're all the same - if you see a variation of less than 0.5 volt for each seat belt then there's no difference between them - the ORC is expecting the same voltage drop for them all.

Then you'll need to splice in resistor(s) to the driver seat belt circuit to achieve the correct voltage drop. You can try measuring the resistance at each seat belt buckle as well (make sure it is disconnected), but because they describe the switch as a hall effect, I don't think that will do you any good. You'll also need to measure current flow in order to use Ohm's law to calculate the correct resistance value. I would just measure it at the original driver position.

 

1. I'm not really interested in paying dealer prices to program it....& i bet the first time the battery is disconnected that programming is lost.
2.I have the original seat & belt & buckle...unfortunately I cut the wires very close to the connector because I trusted your fix...now I don't have enough wire at the connector to reconnect!
3.voltage drop etc is way over my head....wouldn't know where to begin.
4. In the mean time I'm driving around for 5 hours plus with this chime.....is there a way to muffle it ...where is this damn speaker located?

 

Programming probably isn't as much as you would think. It's a pretty straight forward procedure and shouldn't be lost if the battery is disconnected provided it's done correctly. Any time a PCM update occurs it basically overwrites the PROM (Programmable Read Only Memory) and becomes a permanent part of the PCM software to prevent loss in the event of battery disconnect - programming any other module can be done in the same way. You're not going to lose any money asking for a quote.

However, I've been doing some more digging on this. The chime is an integral part of the instrument cluster, so I doubt you'll be able to remove or muffle it unless you're comfortable tearing apart the cluster itself. Fortunately, the chime is controlled by the BCM, which means you can still disable it. It's going to require accessing the BCM or removing the instrument cluster so you can clearly see the wiring harness. I recommend removing the instrument cluster because it's the easier of the two, but the BCM is accessible by removing the trim panel, knee blocker air bag and support bracket from underneath the steering column.

Cut the chime control circuit wire between the BCM and instrument cluster. It's a violet/orange wire that runs from connector 4, pin 34 on the BCM to pin 11 on the instrument cluster. Make sure not to cut it so close to the connector that you can't splice it again if needed, then cap off the ends. That should disable it - but keep in mind that's disabling the chime entirely - it won't alert you to the key in the ignition, an open door, lights that are left on, etc.

I approached this as if I was trying to diagnose a chime that didn't work at all, following Dodge's diagnostic procedures, so cutting that wire should work as it disconnects the circuit the BCM uses to control it. I could not find any information to suggest that cutting this wire would cause some kind of secondary control from the instrument cluster to take over.