2000 dodge grand caravan stalling problem
#1
2000 dodge grand caravan stalling problem
I have a 2000 dodge caravan that has started stalling when coming to a stop, or when making a turn. this is becoming dangerous! i can restart it right away..but when it looses power in mid-turn...it is NOT good. this only happens in warm weather...it started last summer, stopped over the winter, and has now started again. been 'hooked-up' to the diagnostic computer and they can find no problems. any ideas??????
#2
RE: 2000 dodge grand caravan stalling problem
I had this problem with my 94 and 97 and it was the EGR valve each time, but it usually set a code and the MIL light. I could restart it easily after turning the key completely off then back on( MIL light would usually be off after this key sequence). If it is EGR you should have a code. I know what you mean about it being dangerous. Each time i'd start riding the brake and keeping RPM's up to keep it from stalling. Good Luck
#4
RE: 2000 dodge grand caravan stalling problem
I live in Oklahoma and have a 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan that is exhibiting the exact same problem as you described. The problem only manifests itself when the temperature is 85+. The vehicle starts right up, idles around 7-9 RPM, tends to stall, hesitate, die at slow speeds turning a corner. Although less frequent, it will also hesitate, miss, nearly die at freeway speeds. Every single time it dies, I can start it immediately back up. Once cooler weather hits, the van runs just fine.
I have read forums and articles discussing possible vapor lock, but I don't have to wait for the engine to cool down before I can restart the vehicle. I also read an article suggesting it was possibly the throttle body needing cleaning, but I didn't have the symptoms associated with that problem either. Like you, I have had the Van in the dealer's shop a couple of times. Each time, they kept the Van for about a week - waiting for an error code, which never happens. I had altered my driving habits to insure I didn't get T-boned when pulling my vehicle out in heavy traffic, but now I am giving the minivan to some friends with young kids and I want to get this problem fixed before they take ownership.
It stinks that the dealer doesn't have a clue what's happening.
I have read forums and articles discussing possible vapor lock, but I don't have to wait for the engine to cool down before I can restart the vehicle. I also read an article suggesting it was possibly the throttle body needing cleaning, but I didn't have the symptoms associated with that problem either. Like you, I have had the Van in the dealer's shop a couple of times. Each time, they kept the Van for about a week - waiting for an error code, which never happens. I had altered my driving habits to insure I didn't get T-boned when pulling my vehicle out in heavy traffic, but now I am giving the minivan to some friends with young kids and I want to get this problem fixed before they take ownership.
It stinks that the dealer doesn't have a clue what's happening.
#5
RE: 2000 dodge grand caravan stalling problem
I have a 97 caravan 3.3. I've been having the same problem for over a year. Will usually not stall till after 20 or 30 minutes of driving,gets worse in hot weather & harder to start back up.have replaced 02 sensor,pcm.vss.,crank sensor,catalytic converter,rebuilt motor,fuel pump 2yrs ago.still stalling & no codes & no vacuum leaks.Its driving me crazy! I'm thinking it might be the fuel pump-the one I put in was the cheap one from auto zone.does anyone have any advice before I spend 200.00 on another pump.If this don't work i'm going to try my 30.06 on it. I'll let you know which one works!
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mirageman (08-15-2019)
#7
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#8
RE: 2000 dodge grand caravan stalling problem
Ok I had this same problem on 2002 caravan. Did tune up stuff etc, no fix, took it to dealer (thinking theywould be the authority)they said I needed new wiring harness THAT WILL BE$2700HAH!. I have the diagnostic sheet with the bid on it and wish someone at Chrysler would call me to discuss it.
Found a guy who use to work for dealer. I said via the phone my van is stalling and he finished the statement when you are coming to a stop or in traffic. I said yes. He said you need your throttle body cleaned. He cleaned it 40 dollars and now it worksawesome it's been 45 days and NO re-occurence.
I hadalso noticed a flutter very occasionally when driving he said it's probably the down stream oxyegen sensor as they get carbon on them. We have not replaced yet as it's not a bigissue.
Bottom line get the throttle body cleaned.
Found a guy who use to work for dealer. I said via the phone my van is stalling and he finished the statement when you are coming to a stop or in traffic. I said yes. He said you need your throttle body cleaned. He cleaned it 40 dollars and now it worksawesome it's been 45 days and NO re-occurence.
I hadalso noticed a flutter very occasionally when driving he said it's probably the down stream oxyegen sensor as they get carbon on them. We have not replaced yet as it's not a bigissue.
Bottom line get the throttle body cleaned.
#9
stalling and hesitation in 3.3 L caravan engines
I had this too in my 2001. Intermittent loss of power, stalling, running rough, excessive fuel consumption.... It took a lot of troubleshooting on my part because the dealer was nowhere close to the problem and had no clue despite extensive and detailed records of the symptoms. They wanted over $3000 to replace computers, fuel pump, fuel filter, wiring harness... no way.
The fix cost 30 cents.
Part of my troubleshooting was to buy a OBD readout that would montior engine condtions while driving. Every time it acted up, I noticed the ignition timing was late, as much as 8 degrees after TDC. Bought a new crankshaft position sensor from an online supplier, and their website recommended the purchase of a "spacer" with it. They sell "spacers" in bags of 10 for 3 dollars, not sure what the spacer was, but for $3 what the heck. Took out the old sensor and immediately saw the cause of the problem.
These sensors have an internal magnet that is involved in sensing the teeth on the flywheel. Metal chips get stuck to the magnet and interfere with the sensor. As the chips move around, the sensor sometimes works, sometimes not, giving some incredible levels of frustration and very difficult troubleshooting. When the sensor either misses the teeth on the flywheel, or detects them at the wrong time due to the metal chips, the computer fires the plugs at the wrong time, and that means rough running, stall, hard start, hesitation... As the flywheel continues to turn, it shuffles the chips and if it shuffles them into a position where the sensor gets a good reading, the engine runs good again. If they get shuffled into a worse position, you get a stall.
The "spacer" was a small hard paper disc with adhesive on it. You stick it on the front of the sensor to keep the metal chips off. I cleaned off all the chips stuck to the magnet, put the spacer on the OLD sensor, put it back in and have not had ANY problems with that engine for three years, all symptoms 100% gone.
The fix cost 30 cents.
Part of my troubleshooting was to buy a OBD readout that would montior engine condtions while driving. Every time it acted up, I noticed the ignition timing was late, as much as 8 degrees after TDC. Bought a new crankshaft position sensor from an online supplier, and their website recommended the purchase of a "spacer" with it. They sell "spacers" in bags of 10 for 3 dollars, not sure what the spacer was, but for $3 what the heck. Took out the old sensor and immediately saw the cause of the problem.
These sensors have an internal magnet that is involved in sensing the teeth on the flywheel. Metal chips get stuck to the magnet and interfere with the sensor. As the chips move around, the sensor sometimes works, sometimes not, giving some incredible levels of frustration and very difficult troubleshooting. When the sensor either misses the teeth on the flywheel, or detects them at the wrong time due to the metal chips, the computer fires the plugs at the wrong time, and that means rough running, stall, hard start, hesitation... As the flywheel continues to turn, it shuffles the chips and if it shuffles them into a position where the sensor gets a good reading, the engine runs good again. If they get shuffled into a worse position, you get a stall.
The "spacer" was a small hard paper disc with adhesive on it. You stick it on the front of the sensor to keep the metal chips off. I cleaned off all the chips stuck to the magnet, put the spacer on the OLD sensor, put it back in and have not had ANY problems with that engine for three years, all symptoms 100% gone.
#10
I know this is an old forum, but I was researching this sane exact issue I am having with my 00 grand caravan and was wondering if u ever found the problem? Thanks!
I have a 2000 dodge caravan that has started stalling when coming to a stop, or when making a turn. this is becoming dangerous! i can restart it right away..but when it looses power in mid-turn...it is NOT good. this only happens in warm weather...it started last summer, stopped over the winter, and has now started again. been 'hooked-up' to the diagnostic computer and they can find no problems. any ideas??????