Nice name nastefast662. I assume it's a GSM (big boost) right? How long have you been running it?

 

My guess if its big boost then you got new rods,pistons?

 

9 pounds of boost on a stock normally asperated engine sounds high, we're not talking longevity here. Also, according to places selling the GS kit, say that they get 123 added rear HP on just 6 pounds using a Novi 1200 head for $5,500. Then they say for the 'big boost kit' it'll take you to 8-10 pounds and 100 HP more, for $700 more get the 1500 Novi head. If you ran yours on a dyno and know for sure, I'd be really ticked to get their 6 pound unit and not get what they are advertising...

MN

 

exactly y i asked.Like you say 6lbs should get you 100+hp 12will make it soar like an Eagle.I do believe I read on their site after 8lbs you need to upgrade other things.maybe I am wrong ?

 

if you believe all that information they put on parts stating increases in HP and Torque your on a long run of BS. I know the guy who dyno my vehicle. a dodge charger was installed with a super max header and magnoflow exhaust claiming an increase of 49 hp and 45 ft lbs torque. they did just that. from stock to the exhaust kit it only yielded 27 HP and 31 ft lbs of torque..but wait they claimed 49 hp. I know GS motorsports claims an added 123 rwhp which they were pretty dam close on. Even with that extra boost im not running that all the time. i average 6-7 psi boost on the road way and about 9 at the track. Yes, the engine is stock but its built pretty damm good. No knocks, pings, or back fires EVER..grant i run 92 octane in it. All i know when i open it up at a light and blow peoples doors they start to wonder whats in my station wagone especially stock R/T magnums. It looks like there are two crowds out there. Those who dress the magnum up or those who HP them out. My hats off to everyone who owns one and shows them off.

 

There are two HP/torque numbers, at the flywheel and at the rear wheels. The flywheel numbers will always be higher due to drivetrain losses to the rear wheels. A quick and dirty conversion is rear wheel= 75% or 80% of flywheel. Make sure you are comparing apples to apples. There is also a "corrected" power reading that tells you what your power would be in a "Standard" environment (air temp, barometric pressure, humidity, etc.). This puts the readings on as level a playing ground as you can get. I found a web site: (http://www.ajdesigner.com) that has all these formulas if you want to take off your shoes and do the math. Follow the links to the HP Calculator.

Redbeard

 

I understand the power differences between at the fly wheel and rear end.. the best equation is to use 15% lost in the drive train for manual trannys and 20% for automatic...i could care less what the engine makes at the flywheel its whats at the rear wheels that matters.

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so mike when you getting that thing installed ?

 

It's still pretty hot here. I'll wait till it cools down. I don't want to get heat stroke.

 

All this boost talk is great! This is definitely good research material later on down the road, just make sure there's some sort of closure to the stated issues Who knows, I might be the one digging for info on this in a few years