It's a combo. There's like 4 stud/bolts that hold the heat shield on each side. Below, in the first pic, the one on the left is the stud/bolt the other is the normal bolt.

One of the stud/bolts will remain on the passanger side front for the oil dip stick. Be sure to note where this one is located so you put it back in the correct hole . Your headers should come with a spacer that goes between that bolt and the header.

As you can probably tell the stud/bolt goes through the heat shield and a nut holds it on (see second pic). <edit> circled in red are the nuts on the top of the stud/bolt which are holding the heat shield on.



[IMG]local://upfiles/33009/AE1B89A408F1456C985C21E81537B26F.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/33009/E74440991F8244DCA454538E602F5548.jpg[/IMG]

 

Ok gotcha I was thinking they just had studs like the older one s.Thanks for the nice pics
marty

 

Just my cents, The take out was easy. Putting in the JBA'S......The drivers side gave a hard time on the center top bolt. you cant fit your fingers in the tubes and from the bottum ya cant reach over, Jack it up let it down, top to underneth. ya can only use two finger tips to get it seated. The passengers side was a lot easier. And I only removed one side motor mount at a time but kept the other side loose for more room when ya jack it up.

The best tool bought for this job was. (180 degree pivoting ratchet wrench set/ it only needs 5 degree swing to turn the bolt)

 

Thanks everyone I have all the needed tools even an o2 socket.How hard was it to get the torque wrench in there?

 

I agree taking the manifolds out is easy compared to installing the headers.

On the drivers side there's more room than the passenger. For the drivers side with the air breather off and the radiator overflow bolts out I propped up the radiator overflow w/a small piece of a 2x4. This gave enough room to get my arm in there for the top bolts.

Anyhew, would like to know where you jacked the engine up at, where was the jack point?

You can use a 7/8 open end wrench to loose/tighten the O2 sensors but a O2 socket sounds even better.

Torquing is just as eash as accessing the bolt,some are not easy to get to. But if you can jack-up the engine per karleysDAD then you shouldn't have any issues torquing all of them.

 

ok can anyone tell me how I can mark this post so I dont lose it ?
Marty

 

Up at the top of any thread you want to track click on "Subscribe" riht next to "Printable Version" and above the Page Number.

After you subscribe to a thread(s) you can view your subscriptions by clicking on "My Profile" up at the top. Now your looking at your "My Profile" screen and at the top of it is another link "My Subscriptions". Click on "My Subscriptions" and that will list what your subscribed to as a link.

I still want to know where that jack point is that karleysDAD used to jack the engine up.

 

I did shortys and it took about 7 1/2 hours. We had to jack up the motor to get to the upper bolts on the driver side. I think we could do it in about 3 hours now that i know the tricks. I made the mistake of using the bolts that came with my headers, and they were not header bolts so the clearence for the sockets was the biggest issue. I think if you use header bolts it wont be that big of a deal.

 

What jack points did you use to jack up the motor?

I guess I'm just slow... after I installed my LT headers I helped a friend put ST header on their 5.7 Magie. It took 6 hours to put the headers with high flow cats on (we used Breslin header bolts).

 

You can jack it on the pan just have a board between the Jack and the pan.