After sitting idle outdoors for nearly 4 years, my 1986 2.2L (non-turbo) Daytona's coil measures only 2.9 volts with the ignition switch on. Is this due to a bad ignition coil? The engine runs briefly if I pour fuel into the intake and start it. 4 years ago it would start and run just fine. The fuel pump is probably bad because it does not run when applying 12v directly to its contacts on the tank. Could the low voltage at the coil be due to a bad power module, or logic module? Help, anyone?

 

Probably bad gas. It doesn't last forever. Empty the tank, flush it out, and the fuel lines, feed it some fresh gas, see if it runs.

 

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Before doing all that work (including lowering the tank and possibly replacing the fuel pump), I'd like to do some analysis. Perhaps someone can read past the first 8 words of my statement/query, and answer my other questions. And, btw, gas siphoned from the tank DOES start the engine when run thru the intake manifold. And, as I said, the pump appears to be non-functional, w/12 volts applied, and the fuel line open at the input of the filter.

But thanks anyway for telling me what I already knew.

 

my 86 Daytona did the same thing....the fuel injectors were plugged with old gas...it would only run if you put fuel down the throttle body.

pull the fuel rail off the back of the motor, replace the injectors and put new rubber fuel hoses on the rail while it is off.

 

Is yours a turbo? Mine is NOT. It's the standard 2.2L. No fuel rail. Just a single throttle-body injector. Yes, I can see that it might need a new injector. But what about my fuel pump? Your suggestion won't work if the fuel pump doesn't work. (Will it?) Perhaps you didn't read that part of my question.

 

If the engine runs when you pour gas down the intake, that would tend to imply the coil is indeed doing it's job, and your problem is fuel related. If the pump isn't running, then the engine isn't going to either. In order to diagnose further, you need to fix the KNOWN problem, and see what happens. It may be as simply as replacing the pump, then again, other stuff may have deteriorated when it was just sitting for four years.

 

So before I cut the hopelessly rusted tank strap mounting lugs/nuts (which will require further repair later) to lower the fuel tank, for access to fuel pump removal, IS MY TEST DIAGNOSIS OF THE FUEL PUMP LEGITIMATE?!?! (See my original question above.) I.e., replacing the fuel pump is anything but simple, and I don't want to go there unless it's ABSOLUTELY necessary! (And, btw, thank you for being the first person to FINALLY provide some useful advice on this!)

 

If the pump doesn't run, verify you are getting power back to it. (if you can.....) if it does run, see what you are getting for fuel pressure. If pressure is decent, disconnect the fuel line, and see just what the pump is pumping.... may not be gas at all.

 

Here's the far (!!!) simpler answer I was looking for. After much thought, I simply connected the fuel pump wires to a 14v motor (or 12v light? VOM? etc.?) sitting on my front passenger seat, turned the ignition key to "ignition," and listened to the motor run, thus verifying that I DID have the power back there, and that the fuel pump WAS the problem.

Maybe this will help someone else... i.e., BEFORE you go through the pain of jacking, draining, disconnecting & removing multiple fuel & fill components, breaking rusted tank mount bolts & straps, fighting with a rusted pump lock ring, etc.