freew67- yes, the K&N filter is out for all Magnum models. Its the same part number 33-2295 for all of them.


BTW, Phantom, what is the lower resonator of the air intake???? And how would one benefit by removing this item?

 

I'll take your K&N if you're still looking to sell it. Drop me a note at tharmsen@agency.com.

Thanks!

Tim

 

Thanks but the filter has already found a new home. I bought mine from 4filters.com. They are located only a few miles from K&N's factory and have the latest items from K&N the day they become avaialable. They are also quick to process orders and ship items. A good outfit to deal with in my experience.

Nick

 

Just ordered my K&N, thanks for the pointers! I searched all of the online dealers on the K&N site and couldn't find a single one with the Magnum filter in stock. Now I have one on the way. That will buy me some time until I get a real air induction system, but I just wanted something up front since my exhaust goes on tomorrow morning.

Thanks!

Tim

 

The lower resonator has a 3" point of restriction. Removing it allows you to open up the top end of the intake to a total of about 3.75". There is one bolt on there, I could reach easily with a speed wrench and an extension. Then just pull it down and out. You will have to remove the big ol' splashguard with about 8 bolts (don't remember off hand how many) from the bottom as well as the 4 for the maintenance access panel.

We are working on a CAI for the 3.5L guys too. But I'm guess you have the same thing for restriction as us so you can go ahead an do the same mod in all likelihood.

 

Cadillac owners actual did a test of their warm air intake and found they lost a lot of performance when the car had ran for a while. The dodge hemi may run at a different temp. The warm air system was probably the quickest solution to smog issues and marketability. I am sure airraid and 360 both know this information and are also selling the look of a filter in plain sight. I don’t blame them and I am sure it will be fun.

Although water ingestion is a possible issue when 4X4ing a jeep wrangler with its air intake by the headlight, more often than not you have to have serious amounts of water covering the filter for a fairly long time to ingest it. I have hydro locked a few engines off road (for fun) and they all work fine afterwards. Another note of interest is the rules of the super car shoot out state you cannot use nitrous or other forms of cooling but you can use water injection. Yes water placed correctly in your intake will actually help your performance. Add alcohol and its even better.

So as true as the threat "feels" the issue of ingesting enough water with a CAI is a very rare and due to immersing the filter in the water forcing the engine to create a greater vacuum and then suck quantities into the engine.. Remember the airflow will pick the path of least resistance so it’s not going to try and move through the water if it doesn’t have to.


Although the warm air filter his greatly improved with a “box� it is then not only still bathed in warm air but restricted to the same hole provided in the stock car.

You will find a dyno comparison of the warm air intake and a high flow K&N filter with the resonator removed will give you the same or greater performance with the modified stock set up. It wont look as cool as the warm air intake though..

The most important issues with a intake in order of important’s:

-Temp, flow, least number of turns/bends.

The actual length does not really come into effect.


Just had to share I figure people will buy what they want but do your homework and get other dyno info to be sure you are getting what you want.

Ty

 

I received my intake kit from 360 Air Intakez today. In about 15 minutes it was installed. I opted for the 1200-degree CermaKrome finish (an extra $50) to ward off the maximum amount of heat. It looks more like a polished aluminum finish than chrome. The kit itself was more comprehensive than the ones shown in the pictures earlier in this thread (which I am assuming were more representative of the prototype stage than the final product). The tubing enters in the middle of the box v. the u-shaped opening in the pictures and requires the complete removal of the stock air box (the older pics seem to show the bottom of the stock air box still in use).

Bearing in mind that I have some custom exhaust work (detailed to death elsewhere in this forum) in place, here are my initial impressions:

#1 It is louder. Not at idle or under low load but under healthy throttle it makes more engine noise. Very pleasant and throaty to my ears.

#2 It is most certainly faster. I had the K&N panel filter in briefly (the new home I thought it was going to get went south so I installed it in the interim) and saw no performance gains (at least none that I noticed). Now I am sure I am going to be challenged on this w/o a dyno to back me up but the performance increase was immediately noticeable and verifiable (at least to anyone who sat in the car with me before and after). After the initial break-in of the car and with just the exhaust modded, I had occasion to air it out numerous times under different conditions. Once constant that I had was that the car redlined in first at around 36mph and redlined in second at just under 65mph every time. After eight times running it full out today with the new intake (it was 84 and humid in my neck of the woods) the car now redlines at 40 in first and at just over 70 in 2nd. The rpms were the same (5600 or so). While I know that this falls short of scientific proof, it certainly works for me. The only drawback is that the computer controlled transmission that normally downshifts even if you are only a few mph from its redline in the lower gear now only downshifts to first if you are going about 32 or less and into 2nd if you are going 62 or less (approximately). This makes perfect sense since that was exactly how it down shifted before the mod. I'm hoping that it will re-learn the shift points with continued "training." Bear in mind that I am not an employee of 360 (although, in the interest of full disclosure, after this experience I am seriously considering becoming a dealer myself!) just someone who had a great experience with a product that was well worth the wait.

Now if I can only get that gear swap done...

Nick

 

Trust me, you MPH at a certain RPM is still the same. There is no physical way to change engine speed and vehicle speed unless you change gears. You will simply change acceleration patterns.

Second, I know you'll be faster, specially with exhaust. The question is how much faster.

 

You can call it a change in accelleration patterns (you make a good point about the fixed nature of these things due to gearing) but the fact remains that I am getting to a higher terminal speed in both 1st and 2nd gear. No doubt about it. I'm at a loss to explain it but, as I said, I will take the results.

As to how much faster, I'll have to get to a dyno for that (something that I have been wanting to do for some time now but just haven't got around to it). I'll post the results when I get them.

BTW, what problems did you encounter because of ESP when using the dyno? The shop I use has a DynoJet Chassis Dyno Model 248.

Nick

 

THE ONLY way I can even suggest why you might be noticeing a change in speed is because you are still accelerating despite the fact you are in between gears. It might even be possible you are revving just a tad higher and the tach doesn't show it very well.

Anyway, on the dyno you'll throw all kinds of problems with the traction control, ABS, BAS, whatever else goes to that system. It will clear as soon as you get off and you let the front wheels roll. I've gotten different patterns everytime I've run.

And for those who care, the prototype of a true CAI is in my hands and it should be put into production soon. It's taken much longer than I wanted it to, but it's ready.