Do you have any check engine lights on at all. If so go get the codes read, write them down and come back and post them here. Not just the generic answer auto parts places tend to give you but the actual code.

Even if you had some codes cleared to get the CEL {check engine light}turned off they may still be stored in the computer so get any codes read and write them down.

If you really don't have any codes you might have a battery going south or the alternator might be getting weak. A lot of auto parts places will test these things for you if you remove them and bring them in to the store.

Make sure the alternator belt is tight first. If its worn enough it could simply be slipping and not making the alternator work right. Also make sure your battery connections are nice and clean. Not just the battery terminals but the battery clamps on the ends of the red and black wires.

Spiff them up until they are actually shiny both inside the clamp holes and the outside of the posts. I have a battery post cleaning tool I got from Harbor Freight that has wire brushes that do a decent job of this. You can use sandpaper or most any wire brush to do most of the work. I've used my pocket knife to scrape the insides of the battery clamps and had it work out pretty well.

If our using a knife be careful not to remove to much metal or they thing might not clamp up tight enough afterward.

 

The last time I had a problem like that it was a compression problem (Older chevy, not a dodge). I never found out if it was a cracked block or just a head gasket, I was young and stupid and sold it.

 

and when I start driving again it goes back down. it doesn't necessarily over heat. it goes up very slowly when im at a red light. when I start driving it slowly goes back down. I recently got a radiato flush and that's aoout it. when I got it flushed the fluid looked like ****. like super bad though. the had to flush it like 5 time they said it had a bunch of stuff in it. I guess rust cause it made the fluid brow. but yea any insight would be great.

 

If it was the original coolant and it is either OAT or HOAT it would probably look like crap by now. It can get all thick and lumpy looking in time. I personally don't like the OAT or HOAT kind of antifreeze/coolant. I like the green stuff. I can tell just by looking at it if it will keep my engine from freezing, not so much with the yellow or brown looking OAT or HOAT stuff.

Last summer I had to replace the radiator on my PT Cruiser GT. It had the yellow lumpy looking original stuff in it so I replaced it with the green stuff. I'm not really sure why the original started leaking but it did. I got one from a vendor on eBay for around $60.00.

That was a lot less than I thought it was going to be. It was a simple task to swap it out. I found the leak on the old one and put some JB weld on it and have it in the garage for just in case I need to put it back in.

I used to work in a radiator shop 'back in the day' and aluminum radiators were just starting to be put in cars. I never did fix any of them I just replaced them for lots of dollars. I checked around and found a lot of websites where they say you can just use something like JB Weld to repair them but I really do not trust JB Weld for this hence the replacement radiator on my Cruiser.

 

I replaced the radiator about 6-8 months ago though. it freaking exploded luckily not while I was standing infront of it

 

yea I got a check engine light but its always been on. ill get the codes

 

I'm guessing you have a crack in the block or head that is letting at least exhaust gas into the cooling system.

You can get an exhaust gas checking thing from AutoZone, you put down a deposit then pay for the special fluid to use in the tester. It cost me around 30 dollars all told.

I was lucky and there was no exhaust gasses in my coolant. If you do find exhaust gasses in your coolant you will know that there is indeed a leak somewhere either the head the head gasket or the block has a crack.

If your luck goes like mine usually does and you find the gasses in your coolant it will be the block because that would be the most expensive to replace. Here's hoping your luck is better than mine.

 

I have a 2003 Dodge Neon SXT and today it made a grinding and loud noise and gear shifter is real mushy we had went across some railroad tracks and it sounded like something had been drug off from under the car earlier today wouldn't go into fifth gear but later did and yesterday had went out for a ride with my husband and it was making noises like a CV joint or Axel or wheel bearings were going out but no noise when we turned the wheel but occasionally sounded like something falling off or hitting something under the car

 

Around here there are a few shops that offer free estimates on repairs.

Maybe there are some near you.

I'd think real hard about having someone with a lift pick it up and check things out for you.

They may just find something that would save your life.

 

" " my 2003 dodge neon sxt was bought from the dealer and instantly overheated. Its in shop now but I still have warranty