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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 07:50 PM
  #51  
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Default RE: Guilty!!!

I was just reading the service manual, and it says to crack the injection line going to the VP-44 from the fuel filter before cracking the injector lines.

They claim that if you haven't done anything to the high pressure lines, that you shouldn't need to bleed the air from them. They reccomend bleeding the air from the line comming into the VP-44 first because the VP-44 isn't self priming. Sound right?
 
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 07:53 PM
  #52  
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Default RE: Guilty!!!

hum. . .I thought the first stage of the VP44 was self priming. . .might be wrong
 
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Old Apr 19, 2007 | 08:22 PM
  #53  
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Default RE: Guilty!!!

I'm looking at the manual right now.Here ya go ...


Section / page14-19 - Air Bleed Procedure, and in it it says that the fuel injection pumpis notself bleeding ( priming )

WARNING: DO NOT BLEED AIR FROM THE FUEL SYSTEM OF A HOT ENGINE

(1) Loosen, but do not remove, banjo bolt holding low-pressure fuel supply line to side of fuel injection pump. Place a shop towelaround banjo fitting to catch excess fuel.
The fuel transfer ( lift ) pump is self priming. When the key is turned on ( without cranking engine ) the pump operates for approximately 2 seconds and then shuts off. The pump will also operate for up to 25 seconds after the starter is engaged.

(2) Turn key to CRANK position and quickly release key to ON position before engine starts. This will operate fuel transfer pump for approximately 25 seconds

(3) If fuel is not present after 25 seconds, repeat previous step until fuel is exiting supply line.

(4) Tighten banjo bolt at fuel supply line to 24 N.m ( 18 ft pounds ) torque. Primary air bleeding is now complete.


That's pretty much it word for word. It goes on about how the truck may be rough running and noisy for a bit, but that is normal.

Whadda ya think? Have things changed since this manual was printed?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2007 | 10:52 PM
  #54  
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open the line at the vp 44 until fuel comes out, try cranking if still no go crack an injector line (easiest to get to) until fuel comes out. try cranking again if still no go crack another injector line (next easiest to get to) usually after two are bleed the engine will run really rough, rev the **** out of it, the rest of the lines should bleed themselves once the engine is running.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 12:48 AM
  #55  
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Default RE: Guilty!!!

Do you think it would be a good idea to pre-prime all of the filters and lines as well as the stock fuel filter canister?
 
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 12:53 AM
  #56  
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I would pre-fill the filters and canister before spinning them on, be sure to use a little grease on the filter seal. I wouldn't worry about the lines. When you get it all put together, bump the engine and let the lift pump run when it stops, bump the engine again when the lift pump stops, try starting it.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 05:16 AM
  #57  
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Default RE: Guilty!!!

ORIGINAL: jakebrake

be sure to use a little grease on the filter seal.
You use GREASE ??

I thought you pre-lubed the seals with oil? What is the advantage to using grease?

Do you use grease on the oil filter as well?
 
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Old Apr 21, 2007 | 11:53 PM
  #58  
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I use grease on all of my filters, after changing so many off them on our fleet customers, I found that grease seals better and the filter is a lot easier to get off. By the way, I'm done with the install






 
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 03:20 AM
  #59  
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Default RE: Guilty!!!

Dude you are an ANIMAL !!!

I can't believe you mounted it there. What did you use, the stock lift pump bracket?

I too finished mine and IT WORKS !!! LOL !!!

I started it last night and finished it today. I can't believe how small the stock fuel line was. Now wonder the poor VP-44 starves itself. Did you have trouble getting the stock fuel line off from on top of the fuel tank? Man that was a BITCH !! I had to squeeze between the driveshaft and the exhaust just so that I could see ( with an old Harley mirror ) the connection. That part was tuff !!

I think you guy's would be proud of me. I even had to come up with a slick idea to mount the fuel filter canister, but not have a fuel filter in it. ( Remember I wanted to keep it there so that I could still use the fuel heater and the WIF sensor ) I didn't want to put another fuel filter in there because I didn't want to put any restrictions at all on the FASS. What I did was this., I cut up the old fuel filter so that all I had left was just the top ring of it that holds the gasket. I trimmed it all up and I think it's going to work pretty good. No leaks so far ( knock on wood )

I'm really happy to have done the job. Hopefully it'll help me get overa million mileson my Ram. Thanks again guy's for all of your help, I couldn't have done it without you !!

I took pics, but I haven't loaded em up yet. I'll post em later.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2007 | 03:30 AM
  #60  
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I made that red braket comming off the fass pump. Just pulled all the stock crap off mounted in there real nice. I didn't take the fuel line off the tank, the plastic supply line turns into a steel line right under the drivers door. Cut off the plastic and just attatched the rubber hose there. This is how this engine should have came. What the heck was up with that carter pump? Anyway, I need to cut about twenty feet off the fass harness, right now I got it tucked away from everything.
 
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