DIY 1ST GEN 12 V T-STAT
this was performed on my 93 ctd.
stat is in the housing behind the alternator.
unbolt the upper bracket (of the alt) from the housing. this will allow you to leave the belt on the atl and tensioner pully while doing the other work.
the bolt is marked with a red circle.

once you have the bolt out, place a wrench on the adjacent bracket bolt and turn counter clockwise. this will rotate the bracket and alt out of the way (for the most part)
bolt is circled in yellow.

with the alt out of the way, remove the upper rad hose and the 3 housing bolts. do not loose the hoist bracket.

clean out the old O ring debris from the sta housing and inset the new stat. then install the tappered end of the O ring seal over the base of the stat.


attach the hoist bracket and reinstall the housing to the block

bolt it all back together. torque the bolts to proer setting. attach the upper hose and rmount the alt.*
* may need to use a pry tool carefully to push alt back into place.
pour in equal amounts of antifreeze and filtered water or use the 50/50 premix from the store.
squeeze the upper line to help purge any air at the top.
start the engine and let it idle to operating temp with the rad cap off. check and add antifreeze/ water as needed.
once level is settled, cap it and drive when ready. mke sure to top off the over flow jug at this point.
if you are not sure of the functionality of the water pump, there is a theaded plug just above the t stat housing that you can remove. with the engine at idle, this is tricky since the pump will throw water out at a high rate. it does allow you to see the pressure of the pump though.
this plug will require a breaker bar and a 3/8" extension to reach it.
plug is circled in red.

stat is in the housing behind the alternator.
unbolt the upper bracket (of the alt) from the housing. this will allow you to leave the belt on the atl and tensioner pully while doing the other work.
the bolt is marked with a red circle.

once you have the bolt out, place a wrench on the adjacent bracket bolt and turn counter clockwise. this will rotate the bracket and alt out of the way (for the most part)
bolt is circled in yellow.

with the alt out of the way, remove the upper rad hose and the 3 housing bolts. do not loose the hoist bracket.

clean out the old O ring debris from the sta housing and inset the new stat. then install the tappered end of the O ring seal over the base of the stat.


attach the hoist bracket and reinstall the housing to the block

bolt it all back together. torque the bolts to proer setting. attach the upper hose and rmount the alt.*
* may need to use a pry tool carefully to push alt back into place.
pour in equal amounts of antifreeze and filtered water or use the 50/50 premix from the store.
squeeze the upper line to help purge any air at the top.
start the engine and let it idle to operating temp with the rad cap off. check and add antifreeze/ water as needed.
once level is settled, cap it and drive when ready. mke sure to top off the over flow jug at this point.
if you are not sure of the functionality of the water pump, there is a theaded plug just above the t stat housing that you can remove. with the engine at idle, this is tricky since the pump will throw water out at a high rate. it does allow you to see the pressure of the pump though.
this plug will require a breaker bar and a 3/8" extension to reach it.
plug is circled in red.

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ORIGINAL: tdmopar59
that truck is pretty sick my buddy has a white 12 valve like yours with the chrome stacks!!
that truck is pretty sick my buddy has a white 12 valve like yours with the chrome stacks!!
yeap it desires a paint job, new bumpers, and slight body work (all f'd up from previous owner(s?).
it drives nice, runs decent, and hauls on the freeway!
thought about stacks, not sure what emissions would do.







