It seems we have all used it as certified distributors can now pump B5 without having to post. It is now managed at manufacturing and marketing level under certified standards. B99 is the standard less than B100 for certification and tax reasons and is a certified base which distributors must use to blend. B20 has been approved by Cummins for over a year. Cummins warrants workmanship and defects but not damage cause from non approved fluids. Fuel, oil or coolant. Exceeding B20 can be a risk in terms of quality, performance, and long term fuel component durability. It is not as stable long term, meaning if fill your tank and don't burn it in three months quality goes down and an unfilled tank may allow moisure intrusion. Biodiesel does not deal well with free standing or emusified water and could end up with microbial growth, corrosion etc. Using good filters and changing regularly is a good practice. I'll stop for now...

 

My dad uses biodiesel in his dodge ram cummins 5.9 all the time we use a processor to make his we dont just dump it in. I would thank that would be bad for your engine. But I might be wrong

 

my dads friend put a cummins diesel in his ford and runs 75% used motor oil and 25% gasoline

 

I've been producing and selling bio for 6 yrs and heres some overall general info for Cummins owners that I have found.

PRE-2000 you can 'get away' with much more. ie. straight bio, WVO, etc, other concoctions. Still should refine and filter down to 10microns, but the pumps and the way they were built pre-2000 are MUCH stronger and less hassles with computers,etc.

POST 2000. You can still run bio fuels and bio diesel, but make damend sure the fuel is GOOD fuel and probably will have to add additional 'helper' pumps since a lot are Chrysler CAR parts. Thats the damned truth. Pumps are too weak to push regular fuel let alone bio mixtures. BUT, its possible with careful planning. I run B-80 in the Northeast in my '02. Thats with an aux. fuel pump.

I would recommend to anyone who wants to try this to install a very inexpensive fuel pressure guage so you know whats going on and what the IP is supposed to be getting in your particular year truck.

If you still want to continue running bio fuels, probably not a bad idea to have your tank and fuel filter being heated as you drive. Various ways to do that.

My .o2cents

 

I have purchased all my fuel from the same distributor for about twenty years. It's not any cheaper (I don't own a business) but I have never got a bad tank of fuel either. About a year ago, they started selling B-20 so I decided to mix it in with regular diesel fuel (in an attempt to keep it around B-5). From what I understand, it keeps your fuel system clean. My truck is new so I'm not worried about stuff clogging the filter.

I know a lot of people brew their own biodiesel but I prefer to buy mine from a reputable retailer.

Just my $0.02, too.

 

I wish I could find a dealer that sold bio. Then I wouldn't have to use 2 stroke at all then.

 

Wish I had a good supplier of biodiesel in the area. I understand that it offers better lubrication properties as compared to the new Ultra Low Sulpher fuel. My old girl ('95 B175)would probably appreciate it.

 

fiance's uncle ran 1 tank of filtered mc donalds fry oil in his 92 powerstroke, ran ok horrible mileage but smelled amazing. he just had to get it started and let it warm up forever to get it to flow right or whatever. ive also heard of people running that in old euro diesels, benz, VWs, audis, and those little non turbo I4 izuzu things with a seperate tank with a heater coil start it with the real stuff, warm it up, then switch over to fry oil. I started out looking for an older diesel for that reason but ended up with a gasser that i want to convert to a 12V, or trade for one.

 

I never read through the 8 pages, but I just wanted to say: I have been using my home made Biodiesel in 3 trucks. 03, 05, and 06. I have a total of about 300k miles on biodiesel. If you do all your tests and pass, and make sure to wash your fuel correctly, you won't have any problems. It's when you make bad fuel, and don't wash that you put **** in your tank.

 

The thing I can tell you about bio diesel fuel is it acts like a solvent. if your going to run bio its best to start from new, Dont have like 300+ miles then decide to run bio you will pretty much clean everything and all that debris will wipe out your fuel system. I have seen underground equipment using 75% bio and when i change an injector or simply just checking th e fuel system its always like new but, I would recommend that you dont use rubber fuel lines due to the fact that bio is more like a solvent and will eat up rubber and send those little pieces off rubber right to your fuel pump head, bad news boys! anyways just wanted to put my input...