Death Wobble
FRIS,
The steering update kit is pretty easy to install with a little mechanical know how. I would say 1 hour or maybe a little more if working on the ground. You will need a pitman arm puller, hammer to knock the joints loose, a few sockets and a impact gun. Let me know how it goes, and turns out. Definetly get the aligment done afterwards, with the caster set at 4.5-5.5 Degrees POSITIVE.
The steering update kit is pretty easy to install with a little mechanical know how. I would say 1 hour or maybe a little more if working on the ground. You will need a pitman arm puller, hammer to knock the joints loose, a few sockets and a impact gun. Let me know how it goes, and turns out. Definetly get the aligment done afterwards, with the caster set at 4.5-5.5 Degrees POSITIVE.
This was my reply to 12VFA... asked what my front-end cost... sorry I forgot to quote his question... infrequent poster here. :^)
1900 all-in... up here in western canada - Calgary, Alberta region. Not a steal but not a hosing either. I think that piece-by-piece the parts and labor would be a bit higher. I don't know if Dodge packages this solution precisely but it is what this Dodge dealer does as a "dodge-packaged" solution. I'm not the most skilled on my own - somewhere in the middle. I did the max-the-castor myself at home and it cut the DW back by about 50% for a few uses then it worked itself back in. I'd been through all the other parts and pieces in every way one might think of to look for wear and play, etc. I could see for sure that just a steering damper alone would have been no more long-term value than maxxing my castor. I reviewed everything in this forum and elsewhere and in the end, 1900 bucks for the beef, less new shocks, seemed like a fair approach. Now shocks... I'm thinking the Rancho 9000... any thoughts there?
1900 all-in... up here in western canada - Calgary, Alberta region. Not a steal but not a hosing either. I think that piece-by-piece the parts and labor would be a bit higher. I don't know if Dodge packages this solution precisely but it is what this Dodge dealer does as a "dodge-packaged" solution. I'm not the most skilled on my own - somewhere in the middle. I did the max-the-castor myself at home and it cut the DW back by about 50% for a few uses then it worked itself back in. I'd been through all the other parts and pieces in every way one might think of to look for wear and play, etc. I could see for sure that just a steering damper alone would have been no more long-term value than maxxing my castor. I reviewed everything in this forum and elsewhere and in the end, 1900 bucks for the beef, less new shocks, seemed like a fair approach. Now shocks... I'm thinking the Rancho 9000... any thoughts there?
Last edited by dboymorris; Feb 16, 2010 at 02:24 PM.
I think that a lot of you guys are missing the point. Adding the aftermarket parts to the truck without really knowing what is causing the situation is putting a Band-Aid on the real problem. One, take the truck to an alignment shop and have everything checked. In most cases, if the shop is worth a crap, they should be able to identify item or items that are worn and need replaced (a lot of cases it’s the track bar, for example). Figure out how you’re going to fix the problem area and what direction you want to go. In the case of the 2nd generation Dodges with track bar failures, you may want to upgrade to the 2003 style track bar developed by Dodge. Solid Steel made my upgrade with a conversion bracket and new track bar. It worked good for me. But that happened to be my specific problem. I let professionals tell me what needed fixed first, then I fixed it. Just don’t put the cart in front of the horse.
I moved forward with looking at aftermarket bolt-on’s to prevent future issues. I put on the steering box stabilizer to secure the bottom of the box to the frame. This helps to relieve some of the pressures the geometry of the steering design applies to the lower steering box shaft. Also, I replace the steering shaft with a fine needle bearing shaft. The OEM steering shafts really have more play than should be, at least mine did. I can say that my steering is 100% better now. You may not feel the need for a steering shaft replacement, but I try to fix stuff right.
The question we should all be asking is: Why hasn't Dodge recalled all of the 2nd generation trucks to fix this dangerous issue?
My truck isn’t lifted and I’ve had some problems. I can’t imagine driving one with a 6” lift and feeling the DW. The design geometry is the one problem that would cost a massive amount of money to fix. Dodge will never fix it. They should look a Toyota and the troubles they have seen.
Dodge better never let Cummins go!
I moved forward with looking at aftermarket bolt-on’s to prevent future issues. I put on the steering box stabilizer to secure the bottom of the box to the frame. This helps to relieve some of the pressures the geometry of the steering design applies to the lower steering box shaft. Also, I replace the steering shaft with a fine needle bearing shaft. The OEM steering shafts really have more play than should be, at least mine did. I can say that my steering is 100% better now. You may not feel the need for a steering shaft replacement, but I try to fix stuff right.
The question we should all be asking is: Why hasn't Dodge recalled all of the 2nd generation trucks to fix this dangerous issue?
My truck isn’t lifted and I’ve had some problems. I can’t imagine driving one with a 6” lift and feeling the DW. The design geometry is the one problem that would cost a massive amount of money to fix. Dodge will never fix it. They should look a Toyota and the troubles they have seen.
Dodge better never let Cummins go!
Last edited by BuckeyeRam; Mar 2, 2010 at 12:31 PM.
4 new ball joints, inner and outer tire rods, steering gear box, track bar bushings, steering stabilizer!!!! Front end alignment!!!! Thousands of dollars later and still have the same problem!!! What is going on with this thing!?!?
The truck is stock so its not like it has a big lift kit are anything. Could it be tiers? lower and upper control arms? Im so sick and just about out of money and ideas on trying to fix this thing!
4 new ball joints, inner and outer tire rods, steering gear box, track bar bushings, steering stabilizer!!!! Front end alignment!!!! Thousands of dollars later and still have the same problem!!! What is going on with this thing!?!?
The truck is stock so its not like it has a big lift kit are anything. Could it be tiers? lower and upper control arms? Im so sick and just about out of money and ideas on trying to fix this thing!
I have only had one truck with death wobble and it turned out to be drag link was bad... I am not saying this is your problem but If you need help I will drive out to where ever you are and check it out...
If you end up helping him, go under there and adjust the caster to rotate the axle forward... pinion up. do not get too crazy with the pinion angle, should be pretty close to 0* (a few deg off should be OK, avoid pinion bearing noise).
I have had just about every part worn or trashed on the front of 2 rams & never had a DW issue while having the caster set at 5.0 or greater.... the 2nd gen ram had 34" tires, 3rd gen had 325-60-18's that weighed a ton.
I have had just about every part worn or trashed on the front of 2 rams & never had a DW issue while having the caster set at 5.0 or greater.... the 2nd gen ram had 34" tires, 3rd gen had 325-60-18's that weighed a ton.
If you end up helping him, go under there and adjust the caster to rotate the axle forward... pinion up. do not get too crazy with the pinion angle, should be pretty close to 0* (a few deg off should be OK, avoid pinion bearing noise).
I have had just about every part worn or trashed on the front of 2 rams & never had a DW issue while having the caster set at 5.0 or greater.... the 2nd gen ram had 34" tires, 3rd gen had 325-60-18's that weighed a ton.
I have had just about every part worn or trashed on the front of 2 rams & never had a DW issue while having the caster set at 5.0 or greater.... the 2nd gen ram had 34" tires, 3rd gen had 325-60-18's that weighed a ton.
Steve,
Could you explain to me why the caster needs to be adjusted? And I assume you mean 5 degree? One final time, explain this adjustment.
I’m not an expert, but enjoy trouble shooting problems. I’m learning a lot from reading these threads, and realizing how full of crap some of these idiots are. You on the other hand have spiked my interest. Give me the long and short of this needed adjustment. I want to know why it is necessary and how it improves the normal geometry. Explain the best you can………..
Could you explain to me why the caster needs to be adjusted? And I assume you mean 5 degree? One final time, explain this adjustment.
I’m not an expert, but enjoy trouble shooting problems. I’m learning a lot from reading these threads, and realizing how full of crap some of these idiots are. You on the other hand have spiked my interest. Give me the long and short of this needed adjustment. I want to know why it is necessary and how it improves the normal geometry. Explain the best you can………..
I bought a replacement steering stabilizer at advance auto parts for $31. The dealer wanted $180 for the part. I went to replace it and noticed that the bar that the stabilizer shock attaches to rotates easily in my hand. The bushing on the drivers side is shot. More parts to buy I guess. I'm sure they don't sell the bushings by themselves.
In an earlier post you asked if okay to replace only tie rod ends. The tie rod ends should be the only wear part there but inspect the connecting rod to be sure its not bent or has damaged threads. Don't buy junk replacement parts for your suspension. Moog makes great quality stock parts, normally available in quality parts houses, NAPA for sure.
I'm now convinced that there are a lot of different reasons DW occurs. MIne happened only once, when I was driving my 3500 4 x 4 like it was a sports car and I slid the worn front tires while pushing too fast through a left hand turn. My mechanic replaced the front tires and the stabilizer and I've never again had DW. I'm sure that some day it may return. I did have a caster kit put on this truck about 10 years ago so this may explain some of the reason why my problem has happened so infrequently.







