got 155K on my 99 CTD 2500 8800lb GVW. Time for rotors...ugh. I did a search on here and found Diablo's post about changing them. Other recommendations on brands of rotors to use? I know he used some slotted PowerStops. I am looking at the local NAPA shop and they dont have just slotted, they have cross-drilled and slotted, and dont say whether they have the added metal in them to make them stronger for cross-drilling. I am thinking about going with their plain noise dampening iron rotors. Any ideas? And I am also thinking about their severe duty pads, since Diablo recommended severe duty. What about the Raybestos, Wagner or Baer rotors from OReillys? or they have EBC premium rotors product lines UPR and 3GD? Is everyone running stock style rotors and pads and that is why there is not much showing up on here for a search?

 

My next set will be power slots and probably Hawk pads.I know alot of guys with 1500 dodges and the 20 inch tires had problems warping rotors all the time and many said this combo worked the best.

Im sure there are alot of good combos for rotors and pads out there.Someone else will jump in and let ya know some other options

 

Or swap that auto out for a manual pads and rotors last twice as long if you downshift

 

pads and rotors cheaper than engine and tranny after all that downshifting

 

So I bought the Ultra Premium rotors from NAPA (noise dampening iron, no slots or holes) and their severe duty semi-metallic pads. $350 in parts, gonna install tomorrow (yikes!) I'll let everyone know how this goes, maybe have the wife take some pics as we stumble thru this. Why cant it be a free floating rotor like the newer ones?!

 

Got the new pads installed, but for the life of me could not get the rotors to break free. I even used an air hammer on an old socket that fit over the 4 hub bolts in back where they attach to the knuckle, and it wouldnt budge. And the hubs are below min thickness, so gotta be changed. I guess I will take the new hubs to local mechanic and see if they will install them for me. Already had one shop tell me no since I purchased them, they want to purchase the parts to mark them up.

 

Ok,im confused.Im not familiar with the 99 rotor but why are you trying to remove the 4 hub bolts.They hold the hub assembly bearing in.I cant see a reason to remove that.It sounds to me the rotor is siezed to the hub bearing.Try soaking the center section of the rotor with PB blaster.If you have access to a cutting torch,try putting a little heat to it,Keep beating on the inside of the rotor,it will come off eventually

 

The hub and rotor are mated via the wheel studs. you have to take them off together, then pound out the wheel studs to separate the rotor from the hub. the hub is actually on the outside (outboard) side of the rotor. the rotor does not just rest on the hub like on your truck. on yours all you have to do is get the caliper out of the way then the rotor slides off. better design.

 

i meant rotors instead of hubs

 

wow,did not know that.I have never seen a rotor set up like that.Sounds like a real PITA