I'm new to diesels and am a new owner of a 2011 2500 6.7 CTD. Maybe someone can help me with a few issues;

1) How do I find out if I have the engine block heater? I have searched for the plug which I have been told is "tucked" in somewhere behind the passenger side headlight but, can't seem to find it.

2) With today's "ultra low sulfer" fuel, do I still need to add anything to the fuel if it's really cold outside and if so, below what temps and what type of additive? If it gets below 28-30 degrees, I won't even try starting the truck.

3) I have changed the oil twice since I bought it and switched to synthetic. I noticed on the first oil change (shortly after the "change oil" warning came on) that the oil was really black and felt sooty. The second time after only about 3,000 miles, the "change oil" warning came on again. By the time I changed it (4,000 miles since last) it was really black and sooty feeling again. And now again after 3,000 more miles the "change oil" warning is on.
Is this normal for oil to get this "dirty" this fast?
I have heard of heavy soot building up in the exhaust and EGR system and one way to slow this down is to run the **** out of it once in a while and use the engine brake most of the time. Could "babying" it also cause the soot problem in the oil?

Thanks

 

You should be running an additive 24/7/365 because the way they remove the sulfur also removes a lot of the good stuff that lubricates the fuel system.

The EPA mandated emissions equipment is what is causing your oil to get sooty. The EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) dumps soot into your intake. Some of that soot gets absorbed into your oil. It's like dumping fine pumice into your oil.

And yes, it's normal for newer diesels to get dirty quickly.

You can't really do anything about the soot in your oil, except violate federal law and remove the EGR. Running it hard and using the exhaust brake all the time will keep the soot from seizing up your turbo and it'll help with the frequency of regeneration (which leads to fuel in your oil).

Babying your truck will only cause an increase in the carbon buildup in the intake, in the EGR cooler, and in the turbo. It's as bad as it sounds. Load it up and run it hard.


My 08 started fine without a grid heater even in 30-40 degree winter days in FL. My 98 isn't quite as happy about 20-30 degree mornings, even with the grid heater. With the block heater plugged in it's ok though. As far as fuel additive goes, everyone seems to have their own mix. A former co-worker of mine used to run 14 gallons of (double-filtered) used ATF with a gallon of 87 octane and 15 gallons of regular diesel, but he got the ATF free. Some here recommend running a half-gallon of 2-cycle oil per tank. Others run Power Service (which has a cold weather formula).

 

The plug should be tucked in next to the passenger headlight. On the passenger side, right behind the oil filter, is the block heater; it's silver and has a round plug with threads where the heater cord would go. You'll either have a cord there which you could trace to the plug, or you won't have a cord there.

Skip additives. I don't run any, never have and never will.

The oil is going to be black almost immediately, too much EGR dumped back into the engine for the oil to stay clean.

 

OK, thanks for the responses. I guess I don't have the cold weather package because i had someone else look for the cord also. I was just worried about the fuel gelling up in the tank in the cold.

 

RRacer,

If you PM me the vin I can send you a build sheet which will list everything the vehicle came equipped with from the factory.

 

don't run any additives..

fuel is not going to gel up unless you store summer fuel and run it in the winter time.

winter fuel is blended with kerosine to prevent gelling. fuel from the pumps in the winter time is already "winterized" just run it.

as for ultra low sulfur diesel...no need for additives in your truck. your engine was designed for ULSD.

older non 6.7L engines were not designed for ULSD and need additives for lubrication in the fuel. 6.7L does not.

and 6.7 can't start in 20* weather? really?!

my vp44 doesn't care if its cold or hot out...thing is a freak and will start in 20* temps without even letting the grid heater warm up!

now down to 10* I gotta let the grid heater cycle or its going to crank for about 5-8 times.. but 20+ degrees it fires in 1 or 2 cranks without the grid heater.


BTW your winter fuel should be good to 5* down to -20* depending on where you live and how cold it gets there. if you live in a colder area the diesel gets more kerosine in it and lowers cloud point of the fuel.

if you are really worried about it though, go buy yourself a gallon of kerosine and dump it in the tank...kerosine is basically #1 diesel. #2 diesel is the stuff you get at the pump...when they winterize they just mix the two...

 

I have owned my 2010 since brand new and have had the oil changed at a dealership everytime. They say to change it at 7500 miles but the indicator comes on anywhere between 2500 and 3000 miles.

 

soot in the oil ain't going to hurt it...diesel oil is always black.

run amsoil for like 15k it has soot inhibitors in it to help reduce soot content in the oil. still going to come out black, but not as bad.

black oil does not mean bad oil.

 

Thanks Jigabop, Glad to hear that pump fuel is pre-treated for winter (didn't know that).
I didn't say the truck wouldn't start below 25-28 degrees, its just that I didn't want to chance it not knowing that much about fuel jelling.

Good to know that "dirty oil is normal. Puts my mind at ease.

 

Just because the 6.7 was developed at the time they yanked the lubricating properties out of the fuel AND oil doesn't mean they're better off without additives.

The reason the oil changed was because the good stuff clogged up cats and dpfs. So they had to re-engineer the oil to make it work with the new emissions equipment.

As far as I'm aware, Bosch didn't change the CP3 pump between 03 and 07.5 to lubricate it differently. The injection system was designed before ULSD and before CJ-4 oils. If you recommend additives in an 03, you should recommend it in an 08+.


The new EPA requirements have decreased the longevity and reliability of the Cummins (and all others).