Drew: Fuel Additives & MMO
Question for Drew:
I've been using 16 ozs. of diesel fuel additive in the "white" bottle with 8 ozs. of MMO. I saw recently you recommended the "grey" bottle. I read both labels and didn't see much difference, could you elaborate?
Also, is there any problem with using this formula in every tank, or should you run a tank or two off this stuff once in a while?
Winter vs. Summer mix ?
I've been using 16 ozs. of diesel fuel additive in the "white" bottle with 8 ozs. of MMO. I saw recently you recommended the "grey" bottle. I read both labels and didn't see much difference, could you elaborate?
Also, is there any problem with using this formula in every tank, or should you run a tank or two off this stuff once in a while?
Winter vs. Summer mix ?
the white bottle has anti-gelling properties, and raises the cetain rateing of the fuel 4 points. it also has the same lubricating properties as the grey bottle. The difference with the grey bottle is that it does not have the anti-gelling addative, but raises the cetain level 6 points.
New Jersey is one of those borderline states where I would reccomend useing the white bottle when the temps begin to dip to ensure the fuel does not gell. however, in my area I dont bother with the white bottle. it doesnt get cold enough.
I use it every tank. 16oz PS and 8oz MMO. Even though as early as 04.5 these trucks are certified to run on the new 07 ULSD fuel I dont like the thought of the CP3 and the injectors running this low lubricating fuel. One of the guys in my national guard unit that is a trucker puts in a full gallon of 30 weight oil into each tank for his truck all because of the lower sulfur content of the fuel. Basicaly when you lower the sulfur content of diesel fuel the lubricating properties of the fuel also goes down. The guys that are running the VE, P7100, and VP44 injector pumps are the ones that are going to be hit the hardest, especialy the VP44 since it uses the fuel for lubrication.
New Jersey is one of those borderline states where I would reccomend useing the white bottle when the temps begin to dip to ensure the fuel does not gell. however, in my area I dont bother with the white bottle. it doesnt get cold enough.
I use it every tank. 16oz PS and 8oz MMO. Even though as early as 04.5 these trucks are certified to run on the new 07 ULSD fuel I dont like the thought of the CP3 and the injectors running this low lubricating fuel. One of the guys in my national guard unit that is a trucker puts in a full gallon of 30 weight oil into each tank for his truck all because of the lower sulfur content of the fuel. Basicaly when you lower the sulfur content of diesel fuel the lubricating properties of the fuel also goes down. The guys that are running the VE, P7100, and VP44 injector pumps are the ones that are going to be hit the hardest, especialy the VP44 since it uses the fuel for lubrication.
Hey Drew,
Let me get this straight. I have a 05 2500 and you mentioned thet your buddy puts a full gallon of 30 weight oil into his tank at fill up?
Would it be safe to say that that is better then just straight diesel?
I'm just curious because all of the information that i have read it almost sounds like you could put just about any liquid you can get your hands on and dump it into your truck and it is a good thing... LOL
Thanks,
Mark from NJ
Let me get this straight. I have a 05 2500 and you mentioned thet your buddy puts a full gallon of 30 weight oil into his tank at fill up?
Would it be safe to say that that is better then just straight diesel?
I'm just curious because all of the information that i have read it almost sounds like you could put just about any liquid you can get your hands on and dump it into your truck and it is a good thing... LOL
Thanks,
Mark from NJ
this is in an OTR tractor with dual 100 gallon fuel tanks. I think it is a 90's model with a N14 and 800,000 miles+
older trucks would run on just about anything as long as it satisfied a few criterias, 1. was combustable under heat and compression, 2. lubricated the pumps, and 3. when hitting the pumps was liquid.
old farm tractors started on about a gallon of 87, then once the head was warmed up it was switched over to diesel and ran the rest of the day. heck, when I was in Bosnia it was not uncommon to see cars that ran on liquified coal, talk about smokey, the EPA would lay a golden egg when a car the size of a miata was pushing more smoke than a freight train
older trucks would run on just about anything as long as it satisfied a few criterias, 1. was combustable under heat and compression, 2. lubricated the pumps, and 3. when hitting the pumps was liquid.
old farm tractors started on about a gallon of 87, then once the head was warmed up it was switched over to diesel and ran the rest of the day. heck, when I was in Bosnia it was not uncommon to see cars that ran on liquified coal, talk about smokey, the EPA would lay a golden egg when a car the size of a miata was pushing more smoke than a freight train
Hey Drew... I bought the MMO and the white bottle of PS (no grey), how do you go about mixing and pouring? can the 2 be mixed into 1 bottle then added prior to fillup?
also, the mix for 34 gallon tank would be 16 oz PS & 8 oz MMO?
How often and what are the benifits...
I remember reading something you wrote a while back but cant seem to find it...
also, the mix for 34 gallon tank would be 16 oz PS & 8 oz MMO?
How often and what are the benifits...
I remember reading something you wrote a while back but cant seem to find it...
Ya know, when I was a kid and my dad was working with me on my first old car (a 62 Comet!) He used to start that little inline 6 and pour a quart of transmission fluid as fast as he could into the crab, trying to choke it out. He said it cleaned the carb and loosened up old junk in the valves, and all kkinds of good things.
on the bad side, it was so hard to start when you went back to start it that I thout it was ruined forever and it poured an amazing amount of whit esmoke out the tail pipe. I mean you could not see the car, trees, house etc.
Anybody ever do this anymore?
on the bad side, it was so hard to start when you went back to start it that I thout it was ruined forever and it poured an amazing amount of whit esmoke out the tail pipe. I mean you could not see the car, trees, house etc.
Anybody ever do this anymore?
Trending Topics
ORIGINAL: JeffBrouillette
Ya know, when I was a kid and my dad was working with me on my first old car (a 62 Comet!) He used to start that little inline 6 and pour a quart of transmission fluid as fast as he could into the crab, trying to choke it out. He said it cleaned the carb and loosened up old junk in the valves, and all kkinds of good things.
on the bad side, it was so hard to start when you went back to start it that I thout it was ruined forever and it poured an amazing amount of whit esmoke out the tail pipe. I mean you could not see the car, trees, house etc.
Anybody ever do this anymore?
Ya know, when I was a kid and my dad was working with me on my first old car (a 62 Comet!) He used to start that little inline 6 and pour a quart of transmission fluid as fast as he could into the crab, trying to choke it out. He said it cleaned the carb and loosened up old junk in the valves, and all kkinds of good things.
on the bad side, it was so hard to start when you went back to start it that I thout it was ruined forever and it poured an amazing amount of whit esmoke out the tail pipe. I mean you could not see the car, trees, house etc.
Anybody ever do this anymore?
yep, seen'm pour water down the carb also. It was to remove carbon deposits. Free up sticky/noisy lifters etc. It sure makes a white smoke bomb out of it.. makes an awful racket too ifI remember right
why couldnt you use just MMO? I use 16oz of it. Its much cheaper than ths PS. I use the PS every other fill up because i like my smoke and it takes away from it.... let me know your opinions!!!!!!







