havent seen the 06 models specificly mentioned here before....so anyways, banks and edge now have their programmers for the 06 CTD out...havent found a place to actually buy them for the 06's but...atleast its out there for the taking...oh yeah, and for those of you who already have the 06, im jealous, i'll probly be waiting til october to get mine, until then im still puttin around in my gasser

 

I just had a tech at a local shop, who also is a C-D trained tech, tell me the Banks programmer "will kill your ECU for sure"...I don't know what he bases that on, but I'd be cautious...
And remember, if the programmer leaves a trace, it can be reason for C-D to deny warranty coverage if anything it controls fails...

 

Banks' hardware (e.g. intercooler, turbo's, . . .) are good stuff. but the software has issues. now I know plenty of people who run banks software and like it, but there are just as many that have problems with it.

if your looking at a programmer, Edge, Quadzilla, Van Aaken, and TST are going to be your best.

just remember one thing, you want a programmer that either does not increase rail pressure, or only increases rail pressure on high settings. raiseing rail pressure does give good HP gains, but you run the risk of popping the pressure relief valve on the rail and that is a $200 or more part.

 

Well, since I am about to drop some serious coin on this new truck, I have a warrantee question. I am sure this has been asked before, but could not find it. Do ANY of these programmers not void your warantee? My understanding is that they alter the inputs to the ECM to get the desired result and that this can cause a code that the techs can find. For now, I would be looking mainly at increasing fuel mileage. Next question would be average break-in on a CTD before the fuel mileage really comes into its own. I have heard 20K, but could just be an urban legend. Is it even worth getting a programmer until the motor is broken in?

 

realy it depends on the box you get as to how easy it is to see the footprint. and if you want to be like me I am my own warranty station (and no my warranty has not been voided. . .yet)

will it void the warranty, realy, that depends on the service manager and how he/she feels twards things like this. there are those who dont mind you putting on an edge box, but then there are those that go out of their way to see if you have done anything just to void your warranty.

anyway, the quickest way to break these truck in is like this. the first 500 miles of its life go easy on the throttle, you are seating the bearings and seals in the axel(s), after that dive it like you stole it, and better yet tow something heavy you can put on a programmer at any time you like, you can switch over the engine oil to pure synthetics at the first oil dump (the axels, tranny, and transfer are filled with synthetics from the factory) but what I did notice was at 20K my mileage had gone up about as much as it could. the past 9K I havent seen any real mileage increase like I did earlier in it's life.

this is the way I would look at it. get the blessing of the service manager before installing any type of programmer / performance box, after you have the go-ahead the lower settings of the programmer / performance box will give you the higher mileage and drivability gains, anything after that and you run the risk of having bald tires in less than 1000 miles[8D]

 

Thanks Drew. I am picking up the truck today or tomorrow, I will stop in and see the service manager.

 

Drew,

I was told by dealership to not use synthetics until I had at least 10,000 if hauling or towing heavy loads in this time frame. If lite loads then wait until 20,000 as per Cumming & Dodge. I dumped my oil at 1150 miles and refilled with dino 15w40 from Mobil Delvac.

I plan on a trip to Oregon in 2 weeks with 700 lbs in the bed and a few in more lbs inside would help break it in and still told to wait to use synthetics. I do not want to do any thing that would not make this truck last a long time, as it was a very big investment. All help is welcomed.

Charles

 

the engine itself is pretty well broken in when Cummins delivers it to DC, I cannot remember how many hours it has, but the cam and most of the crank is broken in and the engine is dyno'd before DC gets it. the 20K is just the rings, the rest of the bearings wearing in.

I can see where synthetics might actualy extend the break in period due to viscosity, but what DC and Cummins are more worried about is during the initial 20K metal shaveings will be in the oil from the engine breaking in, and since synthetics have a longer drain cycle, people going the extra distance and not getting rid of the gunk that comes out of the engine dureing break in.

I did my first oil drain at 5K, then again at 10K. my last one was at 20. I'm right at 30 and am going to be pouring in 3 gallons of AMSoil into the engine, and another few gallons into the diffs, tranny, and transfer.

 

Drew,

Thanks for your input. I had planed to dump the oil once I reached Oregon after a 33 hrs drive straight through non stop, except for fuel, as the mileage will be around 4000 miles. I did this type of oil change when I had a 4.7. BTW, I use Amsoil all my cars. I think I will do one oil change with their 15w-40 and then by the next change it will be close to colder weather so I will drop to there HD 5w-30 and use it year round. Dealer also told me to make sure to change oil every 7500 miles and keep proof of all changes in case any warranty work is ever needed as that is the first thing they look at.

Charles

 

Let me know if you want an Edge Juice/Attitude combo. I'll get you a great DodgeForum price!