Hey guy's .... I asked this question over in 2nd gen but didn't get any help. I'm hopeing one of you guy's will be able to help me out.

I've got a 98 diesel Ram. Driving to work today I hit the brakes and I heard that bone chilling GRIND noise. Yep ... I'm sure I've cracked a pad again. They were just put on about 2 months ago. I HATE when that happens !!!

Anyway ....

I'm told that my rotors are "pressed " on, and that they are a real pain in the kiester to replace. I've never done my own brakes before, so I have no clue what's involved. I'm told that I may have to buy new hubs as well as rotors since the rotors are pressed onto the hubs. A rotor with a hub from the dealer I'm told is about $400.00 EACH !! Any help at all would be appreciated.

Also ....

If you could direct me to where you'd recommend for me to buy my new pads and rotors I'd really appreciate that as well. I've seen a thread on drilled and slotted rotors and I haven't made up my mind there yet, but I'm thinking slotted. For now, I'm primarily interrested in how my front rotors come on and off and just how difficult replacing them is.

Thanks guy's ...

 

I'll let one of the experts give you accurate info on this, but I can say from experience on a late-seventies Chrysler truck I did kill a rotor (let it grind too long), and found out what you did - that the rotor was pressed onto the hub. Most shops at that time couldn't remove and reinstall a new rotor, so you had to buy the "assembly" if you couldn't find someone who could do the work. I ended up buying a used rotor/hub assembly from a new-used truck parts supplier in Cali (Specialty) and that worked just fine.

 

Remove the caliper, undo the large axle nut, and then unbolt the hub/bearing assembly (4 bolts behind the spindle). Now remove the rotor/hub assembly. All you do then is pound out the studs and the rotor comes off. It's quite easy. Just try to support the axle shaft if you don't pull it out completely. You might loose some fluid too depending on how you raise the vehicle. It's an easy job. Just don't let the bearing/hub assembly take a beating from the hammering.

The lugs or "studs" are pressed into the rotor. They look splined. If you plan to reuse your studs then make sure you hit the top of the stud only. Don't side swipe them or you will damage the threads. It would be a better idead to just replace all 8 lugs per side. They're cheap.

Also don't let the caliper hang by the hose. I made hooks that let me suspend the caliper from the coil spring. Be sure to notice if your hub assembly had any shims when you removed it. They will go back as well as the rotor inner guard. Before you reinstall the bearing, lightly sand the opening where it fits, and apply anti-seize. You will see how simple it all is.

And personally, I went with slotted only, rotors. I want all the braking surface area I can get. The cross drilled holes are just asking for trouble if you live in an area where winters bring a lot of road salt. As far as pads. Carbon/Kevlar works great for me. A hard pad but not too hard where it will wear down rotors any time soon.

Cardone, Raybestos, Bendix, etc. They all make good brake pads. Obviously the better the pad, the more it will cost. It's an investment to redo the fronts no doubt. But the improvement in braking is well worth it. I brake hard all day. My pads get BETTER with the heat. The rotors take it with no problem because there is no super heat build up from the gasses.

Just my opinion, for whatever it's worth.lol


It's about an hour and a half per side. While your there, inspect the caliper slide pins and bushings. Relube, replace as needed.


Good luck.

 

Thanks Demon for thaking the time to respond. You really DO make it all sound easy. I'm going to try and tackle this job with a friend of mine who has more experience with brakes than I do. I've always been weird about brakes. Back in the day when I had hot rods, I'd do whatever it took to make the car go as fast as it could, but when it came to brakes I always took it to someone who I felt had more experience than I did. I guess I just didn't trust myself.

I've learned a lesson this time though. I JUST put these brakes and rotors on not even a year ago. I was told at the time that these brakes are super dooper last a lifetime blah blah blah. I wound up shelling out $800.00 for the job. I planned on having the brakes replaced at the next inspection needed or not, but they never made it. REALLY pisses me off too !! There was no warning at all with these brakes. One light they were fine, next light it was metal to metal.

I'm going to actually learn how to replace my own pads this time, and I'm going to just get into the habbit of replacing them at every other oil change needed or not. Sixty bucks for pads I can swing, but I can't afford almost a grand every year.

Thanks again Demon !!

Where would you recomend me picking up the rotors and pads?

 

Ummmmm.what are the major auto parts stores where you live? I have Autozone and Parts Plus.


I know the Bendix Fleet MetLoks are pretty rugged. I would strongly suggest these with slotted rotors at the very least. The cross drilled rotors are still your choice. Bendix also has the CT3 line. Not sure if they have them for our trucks though.

You can always order online if your local parts store does not carry heavy/severe duty rotors and pads.

 

Yeah, we have Autozones here. ( I live in Philly ) I'll stop by one tonight if I get the chance. As far as your recomendation, I'll be staying away from the cross drilled and pick the slotted. You definately have more experience than I do and so far everything that I've picked up from these forums has worked out really well for me. Since being here I've gotten myself the Aero Turbine, and a Wheelskin steering wheel cover and I'm extremely happy with both.

Thanks guy's !!

 

OK Diesel, the above is what I was told is the hardest part. Everything else I'm told IS pretty cut and dry, but it's getting the hub assembly out that is the hard part of the job. I'm told that a 50lb slide hammer is used and that 99% of the time it wipes out the bearing assembly. Thus, you've gotta replace the hub assembly as well since the bearing is pressed inside. Apparently even heat is sometimes used to try and convince the hub out.

Any tips here ??

Thanks !!

 

You're correct about the hub being a b!tch to remove......lol. And the bearing does split sometimes, though it hasn't happened to me. I am only on my second set of bearings. I replaced my factory pair at 150,000 miles. I don't think there was anything wrong with them. I was concerened with them being ungreased for 10 years. I did remove the seal on one bearing and there was still plenty of grease. Anyway, all I did was soak the area down with PB Blast, (or something equivelant like liquid wrench). Don't spray the bearing seals but just the circumference where the hub fits into. The next thing I did was start backing out the bolts. Not all the way but maybe a 1/4 inch for starters. (15 mm 12pt?) I lightly hammered on the bolt heads in an "X" pattern for a little while. The hub eventually worked it's way out. Even better if you have access to an air hammer with a flat head tip on it.

I can't imagine using a slide hammer, good God.....lol. There's always a gentler way of doing things. You'll need patience my friend.lol.

It will work. I personally would not heat the area.

Once you get the hub out, take that sandpaper, or even better, a wire wheel on a drill, and go around the perimeter of the hole that the hub fits into. Obviously do not use any kind of grinder. You can also sand around the outside of the hub as well. I covered mine with a shop towel to prevent rust pieces from getting into the bearing. When you reassemble it all, put the no sieze crap on the hub and spindle. You'll never have a problem removing that bearing again.

When you go to remove all the lugs, so as to seperate the hub and rotor, support the rotor so the hub is "suspended". If you're good, you can prop the rotor up off the work bench and place a spacer of some kind under the hub so it is only a fraction of an inch off the table. Then pound away. Make sure your swing is accurate...LOL. That is of course unless you plan to replace all the studs. If so, bang away.

You will find that removing the hub from the spindle is the hardest part. Just take ur time. It will go back together quite easy after you sand and lube.

Just make sure when you install the lugs, you tap them in as far as you can. They should seat themselves when you tighten the lug nuts. I was able to pound the lugs all the way in. You'll need a hefty punch to do that. Put the wheel back on, tighten the lugs, then remove the wheel again and inspect. Make sure any shims and guards are back in their proper places.

Now rebolt the caliper, after you lube/check the sliders and bushings. Wire brush all the contact points as well. It is best to do all the brushing/cleaning while everything is torn apart. Make one mess then sweep/vacuum all the dust up before you start applying caliper lube anywhere.

And even more important, make sure you get a can of brake cleaner, and clean the rotor extremely well. Grease and brake pads do not co-exsist very well...LOL. Cleaning the rotor is as important as any other part of this repair. And there is always some kind of coating on the rotor when they come out of the boxes.

I hope the instructions are helpful, and not too confusing. Trust me, if you destroy the first one, you'll be a pro on the other side........LOL.


Good luck, let me know if there's anything else.

Take care.

 

Thanks again for your help Demon.

It's funny ... I prayed to God for help, and I get my answers from a guy named Demon.

LOL !!!

 

Well it's true what they say.......... "Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over"......LOL.