Hello All,

I have read all the posts here and and can not find my problem...

Repaced coil - (Primary tested low ohms out of spec)
Checked crank sensor - (infinite ohms between the green and black wires) ok I think.
Swapped ASD relay with known good relay

Any ideas before I buy a new computer (ouch)!

Randy

 

Any trouble codes?
Are you getting power to the coil?
Are you getting power to the crank and cam sensors?

At about $40, I'd replace the crank sensor long before ever buying a new PCM.

 

Alloro,

Thanks for the quick reply. There are no indicators visible int he display. I do not have a scan tool.
There is no power to the coil or crank sensor.

Randy

 

Check the 30 amp #1 fuse under the hood and the 20 amp #6 fuse at the driver's door panel to see if either are blown. One or the other could be your problem.

If you have a digital odometer you can check the codes without a scan tool. Make sure the odo is not on trip then starting with the key off quickly do this sequence:key on, key off, key on, key off, key on. Now watch the odo and it will display any number codes stored in memory.

 

If you get a "Pdone" code in the odometer, then the code reading is finished. The codes only show for a second or two, so stare at the odometer while turing the key off/on three times and on without starting the engine.

How's the cap-n-rotor on the van? Are the contacts aluminum or copper/brass? The aluminum contacts are just plain junk. This, over a shrot season will cause a no start condidtion and no spark to the coil too. This is another thing to check for if the fuses are looking/testing good.

 

Alloro and Stev,

I was able to access a PO351 code from your directions. The fuses were ok.
I went to a local Dodge parts counter for a new cam sensor and the manager said he would have to order it and added it was a rarely replaced part. I'm thinking I should replace this part. The diagnostic directions in Haynes for this part leave me scratching my head.
What do you think?

Randy

 

I forgot to add that I cleaned the corroded tower points inside the cap.I will replace this with new if I ever get this thing running again.

Randy

 

I swapped in a known good crank sensor with no luck.
This thing quit at 65mph with no previous indications. It was like turning the key off; no sputter, surge, etc.

 

The P0351 code was set because of the bad coil you already replaced. Low ohms on the primary coil will set this code. To solve your current problem you have to start at the coil and trace back the primary wires to find why you're not getting 12v there. Find where the power stops and you'll find your problem.

 

A P0351 is telling you that the ignition coil is bad or the circuit has been broken (ie. a wirebroke or shorted).

P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction


After looking at the ignition coil, look at the ignition wires and cap-n-rotor too.

You would need to also take a look at this TSB even though it's not for our model year. This TSB helps most of the ignition wire troubles with the Gen-2 Ram Van Magnum engines. http://www.dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-48-98.htm

Here's some more TSB's to look at for your model year. Remember, that most of the Ram Truck stuff "may" or "may not" apply.

alloro mentioned the fuses since ...
http://www.dodgeram.info/tsb/2000/Sa_00-01.htm
and this ...
http://www.dodgeram.info/tsb/2000/08-01-00.htm

I just had the brakes on the front of my 2001 done too. This TSB was a help ...
http://www.dodgeram.info/tsb/2000/05-06-00.htm