That TSB does not apply to his 2001.

 

i did the spark plug threader on the 1 3 and 5 cylinders and i had my friend clear the cel light i will let you know if it goes back on when i drive on the highway which should be next week arty

 

I can tell you from experience that the TSB does work on a 2001. Did that for my van and the engine runs so much better!

 

i have had the same problem for awhile now, from the researching i am doing, i have seen this only happen @ or elow half a tank, and only at freeway speeds..... i think this is due to a bad or clogged fuel filter and the tank needsto be dropped to address that.... when i am at half or below, i cant go over 55 mph, it stalls, and throws multiple misfire and individual misfire codes

but when the tank is full, i can go 90+ mph no problems at all

 

Your fuel pump is failing. The filter is part of the pump assembly in the tank so don't bother looking for one.

 

Another item to realize is, the TSB talks about the wire looms. It is very important to use these and not to lay the wires along the engine. As our vans get older, those wire looms break off or are discarded. These parts are very important so as not to have any grounding or arcing effects to the engine.

Below is a Mopar kit for the V6 and V8 engines.







I too would agree with Alloro's theory dealing with the threads and grounding.

A little SeaFoam Deep Creep should dissolve the carbon on the threads. The thread chaser is a good tool as well. Using both would be ideal.








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I am too battling the dreaded Cylinder 5 misfire CEL. I was wondering if you could provide a link for this wiring guide. I'm having trouble finding it. Also, is it a good idea to put the little plastic guards on the wires themselves? I replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor all bought from my local Carquest. I bought the van used with just over 95K what else should I replace in general for best performance?

 

There is one thing here, that I am not seeing considered. While I know this applies to the 5.2 engine I am not sure it applies to the 3.9 engine. There is a Brass bushing that the distributor sits in. After we get so many miles on our Dodge vans that bushing wears. Once it wears it affects the rotation of the distributor shaft and is known to cause a miss. I just ordered one for my 5.2 and it was $12.00 from the dealer. While I cannot specifically say this is related to your specific issues, its worth a look.

Jason

 

If you are referring to the wire loom the answer is NO. If you put wire loom on the lower sections of the ignition wires just above the exhaust manifolds the loom will get soft, curl up, and then drip directly onto your exhaust manifolds making a big smelly smoky mess.

Ask me how I know.

 

Hmm. Pardon me for jumping in but I am starting to see a pattern.

Are all of you using anti-seize or some type of thread lubricant on your plugs? Steel spark plug in a cast iron or steel head does not require this. I don't recommmend it and the factory Dodge shop manual does not recommend it either. The entire installation instructions are: hand thread the plug, tighten to 26 -30lbs, install plug wire. Nothing about lubricant.

Using any type of lubricant on any threads, anywhere, anytime, alters the torque specification. All the specs you read in the manual assume clean, dry threads unless otherwise indicated. Oil, anti-seize, grease whatever will alter the torque spec. If the spark plugs threads are coated with goo and they are too loose or too tight I would assume they would make poor contact and accumulate carbon. Making the situation worse with time.

Fine threads have less grip than course threads anyway and this plug is not going to make better contact if there is crud in the threads.

I haven't had this problem. Mopar spark plug threads could have an known issue with carbon accumulation, I will do the research and try to find out. Maybe we should be chasing the threads every time we replace the plugs.