2001 2500 ram van cuts out while driving
hi all, need some help with troubleshooting van problem. here goes, the van would not start so i got a coil it started but soon idled low and stalled turned key and started but then it shut off again and would not statr for 15 mins. I changed aic valve ant tps. Now here is the tricky part while i did that i disconnected neg cable on battery and turned key to on for 2 mins to clear pcm, van started, ran then cut off while driving ,turned key off and tuned back on and cranked engine and sounded like bad coil but then i noticed the gauges did not move but instrument panel lit up briefly when turned key gauges did not move did few times and finally gauges moved and van started now at the point where it wont start again van has 188,000 with a jasper eng and trans replaced 100,000 ago but rides great and do not want to give up on it. Any help would be appreciated. Just got call from mech who says he's 99.9 % sure it's computer. He said i have to take to dealer so they can reprogram new computer. How does all this sound? also after leaving key on no bus shows in odometer but than disappears when turned off and then recrank and if key left on will show backup
Last edited by hoodjaray; Jun 27, 2014 at 03:37 PM.
Double check all ground wires, its a very common point of failure on these.
Remove and clean all ground connections, paying particular attention to the little 12 gauge wire running from the battery to the firewall.If you have wire and know how I recommend adding a second 8 gauge ( or larger ) ground wire from the neg battery terminal to the core support bolt or fender bolt. Remove all paint from the body at your new secondary ground point and I recommend soldering ring connectors. After this go ahead and reset the computer by disconnecting the neg battery terminal and turn the ignition to "on" for 10 - 15 minutes to drain residual power. Then turn ignition to "off" and reconnect the neg battery terminal. This will ensure full reset of the PCM and other systems.
If you do all that and still have the same issue, it is either the PCM or a bad connection inside one of the 3 PCM connectors.
Remove and clean all ground connections, paying particular attention to the little 12 gauge wire running from the battery to the firewall.If you have wire and know how I recommend adding a second 8 gauge ( or larger ) ground wire from the neg battery terminal to the core support bolt or fender bolt. Remove all paint from the body at your new secondary ground point and I recommend soldering ring connectors. After this go ahead and reset the computer by disconnecting the neg battery terminal and turn the ignition to "on" for 10 - 15 minutes to drain residual power. Then turn ignition to "off" and reconnect the neg battery terminal. This will ensure full reset of the PCM and other systems.
If you do all that and still have the same issue, it is either the PCM or a bad connection inside one of the 3 PCM connectors.
It has been my experience that if you lose battery ground to the body or it breaks/corrodes down to just a few strands, it will result in a variety of weird issues. Sometimes I would get a "no bus" error, a few times it claimed the alternator wasn't charging, and twice the engine just suddenly cut out while driving.
After I repaired that little ground wire to the firewall and added a secondary ground wire to the core support that instantly fixed all my unusual issues.These vans are really pretty reliable but the factory wiring is marginal spec so over time you will have to upgrade certain sections. Chrysler engines are solid but the wiring on these vehicles sucks.
It is extremely common for Chrysler vehicles to burn up all headlight wiring and connectors because the factory wiring isn't rated properly: three or four wire strands break and the entire harness just goes up in smoke.
After I repaired that little ground wire to the firewall and added a secondary ground wire to the core support that instantly fixed all my unusual issues.These vans are really pretty reliable but the factory wiring is marginal spec so over time you will have to upgrade certain sections. Chrysler engines are solid but the wiring on these vehicles sucks.
It is extremely common for Chrysler vehicles to burn up all headlight wiring and connectors because the factory wiring isn't rated properly: three or four wire strands break and the entire harness just goes up in smoke.
before i did anything else i replaced crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor which is also called the distributor pickup, VAN FIRED UP AND RUNNING GREAT. Thanks all. rather push a dodge than drive a ford
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went to start van would not start after new aic valve,tps,camshaft and crankshaft sensor just cleaned some grounds and took off 3 harness's on pcm put back on now have key turned on for 20 mins to reset pcm. moved wires around and if this does not work maybe try a new pcm from internet the ones they program with vin. They say plug and drive
hoodjaray,
There seems to be several issues all electrical, blackvan mentioned a likely ground problem I agree. Weird electrical problems often are bad grounds and have people chasing their tails attempting to diagnosis, I speak from experience unfortunately. Also cleaning grounds is free.
There seems to be several issues all electrical, blackvan mentioned a likely ground problem I agree. Weird electrical problems often are bad grounds and have people chasing their tails attempting to diagnosis, I speak from experience unfortunately. Also cleaning grounds is free.
i cleaned grounds i think most of them and then nothing then tuned key and right before no bus appears the gauges worked and van started, mind of it's own, thinking pcm but i heard they rarely go bad but who knows after a 188,000 runs like 88,000 or better. can't give up




