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Powered Seat Motor - 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 Van

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  #11  
Old 05-10-2022, 01:46 PM
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Default Exact same problem

Originally Posted by nhohn2
How did you fix this? Did you replace the Copper plate for every Motor (current limiter with heat)? How much work was this?

did replacing the copper plate work?
 
  #12  
Old 05-10-2022, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by nhohn2
How did you fix this? Did you replace the Copper plate for every Motor (current limiter with heat)? How much work was this?
Can I use something to spray onto the seat motor while I try the switch to move it the 6” forwards it needs to go so I can drive the van safely?
 
  #13  
Old 05-25-2022, 05:33 PM
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I simply bridged the bimetallic plates with a copper wire. works fine since then...
 
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  #14  
Old 06-18-2022, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by hasicruiser
I simply bridged the bimetallic plates with a copper wire. works fine since then...
HUGE thank you for posting this. I just did this on my motor and it's working now!

I figured I'd pay it forward and give some pointers in case anyone else tries this repair. It's really not that hard but there are a couple things to be aware of.

First, don't think you can just take off the side with the copper plates, solder the jumper wire, and put it back together. There are spring-loaded contacts on the side with the wiring and you won't be able to just put that plastic side back on the motors since the contacts won't spread. Instead, you'll want to take it apart like hasicruiser did and then put the motors into the side with the wiring (so you can spread the contacts and put the motor in. Once you've got all three in, it will be much easier to put the non-electric side back on.

My mistake was that I didn't notice the spring loaded electro-magnetic contacts on each motor. When I tried to put it back together, it wouldn't go all way way, so I "gently" nudged it with a rubber mallet. Unfortunately, then ended up breaking ALL 6 contacts in half. You can see the one in the far right is broken in this pic (this was before I broke the rest).



Fortunately I was able to put the broken pieces behind the other piece with the wire attached. Since they were spring loaded, I needed a helper when I put the motors back in to hold the contacts back with a small flathead while I put the motor/cover back on.

Second, once you have the motors/magnetic covers put back in and you're putting the non-electric side back, be careful that a motor doesn't pop out of the electric side when you're bending the tabs back down into the white plastic. That happened to me and I had to re-do one of the motors (a pain with the broken contacts).

Once I got it all back together, I was blown away that not only did the motor work, but it fixed the issue of only be able to adjust it a small amount before the current limiters kicked in.
 
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  #15  
Old 03-21-2023, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mmitchell57
Here are some pictures of the motor. I've only found one other place that had a picture of it as an OEM part, but it was discontinued. If you guys know where I can get a replacement, I would be grateful. It would save a ton of time with re-engineering a solution.

-mmitchell57




Hello Mitchel. Could you explain how you take the motors out? I take the 4 torx acrews that hold the aluminum brackets. I dont know what to do next. Thanks
 
  #16  
Old 08-06-2024, 04:42 PM
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Sure would like to know how to get the motors out as Changchung asked a year ago? Anyone still around who was part of this thread?
 
  #17  
Old 08-08-2024, 11:54 AM
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can you walk me through how to get the motor pack off of the structure properly?
 
  #18  
Old 08-08-2024, 11:56 AM
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how do you detach the motors?
 



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