The passenger side tie rod end is that whole piece. Not my favorite design. Looks a LOT like the HD steering on the dodge trucks. Are you sure its a 44? Dodge (I know, yours is a conversion) used D60's on the 3/4 and up trucks.

 

Based on the Quigley build sheet and what several local 4x4 mechanics have told me, it's a Dana 44. I'm no expert but when you compare it to a Dana 60, it's noticeably smaller.

 

Wonder what their reasoning was for that.......

That's gonna complicate matters some. Might check into steering options that were offered on the 96 ram trucks, it's pretty much the same suspension after all. I don't think they ever offered the quasi-crossover steering like that though. Wonder if there would be clearance to put the inverted Y steering that was stock on the trucks in there??

 

there are some other sites / forums that are focused specifically on 4wd vans as well as a couple very active groups on fb (ie. one called 4x4 vans). LOts of folks with significant experience. I've seen this question before more than once, but don't remember the answer. I'm pretty sure I saw a thread at some point that listed specifi parts and part numbers for everything. I know Quigley used off the shelf parts from other manufacturers to cobble together the crossover steering in many of those conversions and yours is among the last couple years they did dodge van conversions (fuel tank moved and was in the way of transfer case after that as well as some other difficulties associated with market demand, etc... There aren't a lot of dodges around compared to fords..). I also remember that they used Dana 44 front axles on the vast majority of such conversions.

Lastly, I've never needed to contact Quigley for anything, but my impression from reading message boards is that they're generally quite helpful so that could be worth a try...
Cheers!

ps. you could also source odds and ends from somewhere like Barns 4wd or one of the larger suppliers and build a new (stronger) steering assembly with heavy tubing, weld in threaded inserts and treaded ends (then getting new ones would never be an issue...). This is more involved, but would probably result in a good bit more strength in case you really off-road it or put bigger tires on it... Just a thought...

 

Very useful information, thank you.

After looking through paperwork from the previous owner and the Quigley build sheet, I'm reasonably confident it's a Ford tie rod assembly that has been shortened (as mentioned by a previous poster). The paperwork contains a receipt for a track rod bushing that is for an 85-97 F350, there is also a note in the build sheet that specifies labor hours for modifying the tie rod assembly. I think I may acquire the tie rod end that threads onto the center link (driver's side) and see if it's a direct swap, if so I'll have my answer. Then I'll buy the center link assembly and have a machine shop modify it.

I did contact Quigley regarding this matter and they simply said that the parts can only be acquired from them at the tune of $500, that's only for the center link and tie rod ends!

 

If you are considering having a machine shop do some work for you, I would be REAL tempted to simply have them make up the correct parts for you, that would use replaceable rod ends. (even if it is just two of the Ford fellers) Then, it wouldn't ever be a problem again.

 

(I agree) ...some more thoughts...

below is a post from a thread on another sites (I'm assuming I'm not allowed to link and want to be respectful to this forum...) . Based on everything I've read and know at this point, because they appear to be non standard somewhat modified parts, I would spend the few extra dollars to buy an appropriate crossover steering kit from barnes 4wd (quality stuff at attractive prices!), ruffstuff, or someone else. I bet if you call them on the phone, and explain what you need to do they'll be able to steer you in the right direction. I would get a local 4x4 fab shop to do the work unless you're comfortable with (or have a good friend who is) with the geometry considerations and welding. The biggest one is that your drag length and panhard need to have the same angles, and the tapers on the knuckles and if you spent the ca. $500 to buy parts and have one set up this way, you would get a really strong set up with easy access to replacement parts.other connections need to be consistent (if they're a smaller taper as most are, then they should be reamed out to GM dimensions - an easy thing to do...).

On my own dodge setup I used a 98 dodge dana 60 front axle (which the steering components dimensions matched pretty well the similar Dana 44 front end I started with the aforementioned hd inverted t style dodge steering components with some oddball parts to get the drag link geometry correct. In retrospect (and probably in the future) a kit from Barnes would be how I would start if I did it again.

if you pm me, I can send you some links for more information if you think it would be helpful... (and assuming it is ok under forum guidelines...)

quote below from post of a guy that was looking for one from a ford... but it's presumably the same front axle used in yours... I have some pictures of a dodge Quigley and other relevant information on a different computer... do you know what parts the front brakes on your van are? or specifically the origin / part number of the front axle (and so what the knuckles, tie rod end tapers, etc... or at least what they started as. They're not hard to measure, but you have to take it all apart...

Hope this is helpful. sorry so long... rainy, lazy day here...


"Hey Guys thanks for all the info! I am still getting stuff all taken care of. I live about 45 minutes from the shop I take my stuff to right now but he's really good. He hooked me up with his machinist, and tomorrow I will go back to the shop after they put the bend in it. Moar details:

What I ended up doing being on the budget I am is go with the part numbers I got from Quigley. Quigley told me that the part in question is a Moog DS922 which they modify twice: they put the bend in it to clear the diff cover, and they change the taper of the drag link connection. The shop I go to hooked me up with a machinist who changed the taper today and they were closed when that was done so tomorrow a quick bend and I should be able to start the painful process of blue wrench and penetrating fluid to get the $90 connecting sleeve custom Quigley part which is also apparently made from gold. God be with me that ****er is not seized on there.

If anybody were to come across this thread what happens is the DS922 is tapered for a drag link connection from underneath. They cut a new taper in from the TOP. Thus since the hole is now bigger they need to use a Dodge (?) drag link connection, anyway the part number for that one is Moog ES2147R(L). The ES2147RL part has a much bigger stud so it works with the taper change. The other parts are MOOG ES2065L and ES449L. Appears the reason that sleeve is made out of gold is that the two tie rods are different diameters.

I agree with all you guys and I would have rather done the RUFF STUFF kit or something similar but I managed to save a small amount this way. I admit it does seem like a pretty big KLOODGE to use all these mishmash parts but maybe this info will help somebody.

OReally wanted $350 bucks for these parts but told me they'd price match anybody with a retail store. I saw everything on Summit for less than half. I was out the door with tax for about 165. $20 for the machinist, not sure how much yet for the bend. The custom part DS922 cost $58+$20 machine + ??? bend. Quigley wanted $169+55 shipping to my zip."

 

 

Can't thank you enough for all the helpful information

I've attached a couple pics of pertinent info from the Quigley build sheet for my van. From what I can gather the front brake calipers are '79-96 GMC 1/2 ton. I suppose that doesn't guarantee the steering knuckles are GMC 1/2 ton but it's a good indication I would assume.

I'm certainly not opposed to going the aftermarket route with my front end, assuming I can keep the costs reasonable. I see the advantage of having a setup that is both stronger and simplifies the replacement of parts. As a bonus Barnes 4WD is only a couple towns away from me, so there's the convenience factor as well. Perhaps I'll put a call into them and see what they have to say about the whole situation.