Been a while since I've visited the forum...guess that's a good thing.
Think I got a got a bad torque converter...Noises swtiching between Neutral/Drive
I dropped the pan was pretty dirty w/ metal, particularly since I'd replaced the filter only 5k miles (give or take a few k) ago as part of regular maintenance. Telltale symptoms are it has a few erratic times died out/stalled when coming to a stop (which I can gas it to prevent or quickly switch to neutral). It's happened a few random times in recent years but the noises just started. If anyone thinks its something else, please do chime in!

I'm considering replacing just the torque converter myself. I can get a remanufactured TC for about $100 but of course the labor is the b*tch. Never tackled a trans drop myself. I recognize its generally frowned upon to replace a torque converter independently of the trans itself but I'm at the crossroad of driving it into the ground and moving on, or continue to pursue inexpensive but purposeful repairs. Transmission shifts beautifully otherwise through all gears. Thoughts?

I'm not particularly concerned about the complexity of separating the trans from the vehicle (although I recognize the size/weight will be cumbersome even w/ a rented trans track), but removing/installing the TC properly in the trans has me a bit nervous. I don't know what I'm getting into as far as seals/bushing/etc go...how to determine whether I'll need to replace any of 'em.

Installed MOPAR Part #s:

• Trans - R2118328AC (OE 52119172AB).
• Torque Converter - R2117643AB (OE 52117643)
• Aftermarket heavy duty trans cooler

 

You can rent a trans jack from your local parts store. (I think)

That said, the bad material is already distributed throughout the trans. Changing the converter will only be a temporary measure. If you don't want to spend the money on a rebuild, maybe a good used unit from the local junkyard?

 

I got a place to rent a trans jack. I'm moving forward with swapping in a refurbished Torque Converter and hope for the best.

Have a few questions though if anyone can help out. This is my first time removing a trans so please bear with me if the answers are obvious.

1. What's the recommended DIYer method to support the engine (without a hoist nor the frame mounted cradle described in the manual)? I'm struggling coming up with a method I feel comfortable with.
I'm considering cutting a length of wood and wedge it between some mount tabs and the crossmember (see red arrow below). Otherwise there's a small flat section near where the engine and trans meet. See purple arrow below. Again I'd cut a length of wedge which would rest directly on the ground. The later might get in the way fanagling the trans while removing/attaching. I've read a few sites that suggest wedging woodblocks between the pan and crossmember...that seems kinda like a bad idea but who knows.




2. I believe the jack is a cradle type like this. Ok to lift/support it directly under the pan? Or maybe forward of the pan under the bellhousing (blue arrow) OR rear of the pan (green arrow)? I'm guessing it'd be off balance though.




3. Seems like there's just enough room to get it out without removing any exhaust components. Wishful thinking?




Thanks for any help!

 

I just used a floor jack and a block of wood to hold up the heavy end of the motor. I cant remember if it was the front or rear that needed a little support. The motor mounts pretty much were located near the center of gravity though. I didnt worry abut the motor support until I started lowering down the transmission and let the motor tilt back a bit so the tranny would clear stuff to come back some. You want to be able to adjust the angle of the motor as you remove and install the transmission.
My transmission jack has a cradle the pan sits in to support the tranny from the pan. It also has a strap that wraps around the tranny so it wont tip off the jack.
I had to muscle the transmission off and on the trans jack so I could slide it out from under the van. If you raise the van up high enough to begin with you may not have that problem. But then it gets too high and makes it difficult to wrench everything loose and button it back up.
Replace the front tranny seal while you are in there. Get the seal that has a shoulder on the OD of the housing. I had to pull mine to replace leaking freeze plugs (core plugs) so you may think about doing that too if they are 20 years old and rust from the inside. I pulled mine out in one day and reinstalled it the next myself. Also you can use one of the shield bolts and a 7/16 wrench to make a safety bar to hold the torgue converter into the transmission so it wont fall out during removal and installation.
I hope you get what I am trying to say.
I use cardboard and no creeper and plan on sacrificing my T shirt for the job.
Good luck, its alot work but not that hard to do.

Oh yea I bought a cheap trans jack from Harbor freight and I couldnt have done it without it

 

I appreciate your extensive feedback.

Sounds like I'm overthinking the lifting parts... so I guess I can use a jack w/ blocks to support the engine under the oil plan. The engine mounts are near the front of the block but I guess with the belt accessories/fan/etc the weight is distributed somewhat. And I'll use the trans jack under the trans pan as well. Please do chime in if I'm making a mistake on those!!!

The trans extension housing seal and pump seals are in great shape, pretty much new so don't intend on replacing 'em. I also considered addressing the slightly weeping oil pan and rear main seal but honestly think I'm gonna try to keep it as simple as I can. They don't leak much and don't know what life is left in this trans before I walk away. Still thinking it over though while I wait for parts.

How about the exhaust? I'm hoping I can back the trans away and lower it but not sure. Looks like it'll be close. The last thing I want though is deal with stubborn rusted exhaust components mid process.

 

I didnt have to touch my exhaust. It was not in the way. I have a 1999 1/2 ton with a 5.2 liter though but the same trans as you do.That rear main seal is alot of work aboveand beyond where you are going, i wouldnt mess with it either.Sometimes it is the dipstick tube oring leaking and fooling you into thinking its the trans oil pan gasket. make sure the 2 x 4 blocks under the oil pan extend a little beyond the pan .

 

That's pretty much what I wanted to hear...gonna put off the other non-trans stuff. Honestly I'd do the freeze plugs if I didn't have to drain the coolant. Seems trivial but I've got enough on my plate already. I'll def take a good luck at 'em though and maybe get a plug kit in advance.

Good tip on the wood blocks. I'll also use plywood above the blocks that'll extend beyond the pan a bit on all sides. I assume the trans lift goes right to the trans pan without blocks/wood.

Instead of renting, I decided to buy the 450lb Harbor Freight low profile scissor-style trans jack.

Yesterday I decided to the trans outlet line (radiator/cooler inlet line) delete (remove) check valve while I had everything disconnected.

 

Just a few pointers if you haven't started the job yet.....
I think we have the same Harbor Freight jack. Throw that chain that secures the trans onto the jack in the trash and use a ratchet strap instead. You do need to strap it to the jack or it is very unstable and close to your body under there. I also cut a thin piece of rubber the same size as the jack square pad that the pan sits on. The 4 bolts on the jack plate stick up and I didnt want them digging into my trans pan. The tilt adjuster on the jack works great and both directions will be implotant during the stab back in. Keep the trans flange and the motor square during insertion.
Remember to use a box end wrench bolted on the trans to hold the torgue converter into trans before you separate the trans from the motor. Do the same for installation.
Pull the trans out from under the van. You may want to get a front trans seal on hand. You may damage the seal installing and removing torque converter. I always stand the trans on tail shaft and remove the torque converter up. Measure depth of torque converter before removal, so when you reinstall you know its correct and engaged as should be.
My trans mount was bad and that trans oil is expensive. My freeze pluds looked new from the outside except for a pin hole in one of them. There are 3 in the back of the motor and 2 different sizes if I remember. Dont confuse the camshaft plug, the big one.

 

You must be thinking of the 800lb jack. I picked up the 450lb I linked above and looks like this... pretty bare bones.


I already cut some heavy rubber to pad the jack platform like you suggested.

As for the seal, maybe I'll pick one up. Seems like you'd have to be pretty careless though to damage it swapping torque converters but maybe I'm underestimating how tricky it is. Looks pretty straightforward in videos

I don't care about losing fluid in the process. In fact, the more I lose, the better. The pan and filter was dirty as seen above. I'm using Trans Flush on the lines and cooler and thoroughly blowing them out with compressed air.

 

Consider how long the one that is in there, has been in there.... Rubber deteriorates over time, as does viton. (the latest and greatest seal material.) You are going to be RIGHT THERE. You would be kicking yourself if you went thru all the work, only to have that seal leak. It's cheap insurance. Be sure to lube the new seal good before installing the torque converter.