2001 Dodge B1500 , 3 speed auto (no OD).

Intermittent starting, stalling. May take 50 cranks before it will start.

I've been researching this issue for hours. Here's what I've done.

Checked for 5 volt reference signal to crank sensor, TPS, MAP sensor. Getting 5.1 volts. Don't think that's the issue. If read if it's around 1 volt that means a sensor is bad which is shutting down the PCM.

Code reader won't communicate. When it did start briefly yesterday no codes were stored.

Unplugged every sensor I can think of. Guages still dead as each sensor is unplugged.

Held down oddometer reset button before turning ignition switch to accessory.

Oddometer flashes three codes, 920,921,999.

​​​This refers to something to do with the transmission?

I do know that the van struggles to back up in reverse when cold . Thought it was the rear brakes but rolls in reverse. After it warms up it backs up just fine. Been meaning to put a new filter on it.

Pulled instrument cluster. Still won't start.

​​​​​​From what I've read something is supposed to be dragging the system down. But I'm getting 5 volts on the reference wire going to the sensors.

Could the computer be crapped out? Why would it start sometimes but not for the most part?

Can I use a PCM from a 2001 Dakota (local guy is parting out a Dakota and Durango) or does it need to be flashed? I had a guy put a used engine in my van from a 99 Dakota but don't think he used the PCM from the truck.

If the instrument cluster is bad will this cause it not the fire? I unplugged it just to see.

Not really sure what to do at this point.

 

Codes from the cluster test aren't really meaningful, as the systems they are whining about aren't active while the test is running. (I've never really seen the point of those codes, for just that reason.)

You could try the Dak PCM....... It *should* run the engine without any issues, but, ABS and SRS will be unhappy. (vin mismatch....) Assuming of course, that the dak had the same engine..... It will also whine about the O/D circuit, since your van doesn't have it...... If the PCM runs the engine reliably, getting it flashed with the correct programming for your van, and its VIN, should be all you need to do.

 

Unless I missed it, I didn't see you mention that you checked the fuel pressure.

Also, that reverse issue is likely the need for the low/reverse band needing adjustment. The pan has to come down to do that and that adjustment should be done at every fluid/filter change. The intermediate band should also be done at the same time, but that one is external and can be done with the pan still in place.

 

I didn't check the fuel pressure because I tested for spark and I'm not getting fire from the coil. Engine won't even run on starting fluid.

 

Does the fuel pump run while the engine is cranking?

 

Did you check for spark at the spark plugs or from the center wire on the distributor from the coil? Checking for spark using the coil wire would eliminate or confirm if there is an issue with the distributor passing spark. Also, is the ignition coil in good shape? Because if it's old it could have internal shorting which give intermittent starting issues.

 

I can't hear it. At one time I could hear a clicking sound from the engine every couple of seconds.

 

I pulled the plug wire leading from the coil to distributor cap off the cap and connected a known good spark plug and grounded it to the engine and it never sparked.

I could see a bad coil but why is my guages not working when this happens?

The other day when it stalled, the guages froze and none of the warning lights kicked on. Usually the battery , oil pressure or check guages light will at least kick on if the engine dies.

Just like the engine was still running.

 

[
Also, that reverse issue is likely the need for the low/reverse band needing adjustment. The pan has to come down to do that and that adjustment should be done at every fluid/filter change. The intermediate band should also be done at the same time, but that one is external and can be done with the pan still in place.[/QUOTE]

I will check into this. I was planning on doing a filter swap this week until the engine started stalling on me after a cold start then it got to where it wouldn't even start.

I've never messed with an automatic transmission other than filters. I'll check the Haynes manual if it's in there while I have the filter off.

What all does this involve? Any good how to videos on this?

 

You will need an inch pounds torque wrench to do it.
Here are the specs. for the various transmissions.

For the kickdown band (outside):
32RH tighten to 72 in. lbs. and back off 2-1/4 turns
36RH, 46RH, 46RE tighten to 72 in. lbs. and back off 2-7/8 turns

For the low/reverse band (inside):
32RH tighten to 72 in. lbs. and back off 4 turns
36RH, 46RH, 46RE tighten to 72 in. lbs. and back off 2 turns

After making the adjustments be sure to hold the center shafts from turning as you tighten the locknuts.