When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Top isn't a factor. It's just been on there for just this side of forever, and has essentially welded itself together.
Use the pickle fork as a pry bar, put some pressure on it, then smack the knuckle with a hammer. Having a second warm body makes it a bit easier, but, not necessarily 'safer', as when it lets go, the person pressing down on the pickle fork might punch the ground.
@HeyYou went and grabbed that feller and it doesnt open wide enough, ground off a piece of the threads to try and fit it on but its not working. pickle fork doesnt seem to be doing much either. Thinking about re-attaching the top thinking maybe the bottom is giving me fits because the top is detached and flopping around?
no freakin clue
This is why when I do mine I'm going to take all of the front end off as per the manual. I think it could be less of an issue if the shock, spring, and strut were removed from the arrangement. I see why now usually people just replace the lower control arm with the ball stud already inserted rather than just doing the ball joint because you have to take it almost completely off anyway.
One thing I saw in a video - a guy raised both the vehicle and the suspension (2 jacks), and wedged a metal rod between the knuckle and the base of the ball joint boot. Then he'd quickly drop the suspension and the "wedge" busted the joint loose as it fell. He had to do it several times.
Also, and maybe it's just me, but it looks like the stud is at a very severe angle. If it isn't lined up straight that's going to create more resistance it seems.
Can you get a tie-rod separator or pitman arm puller in there to force it loose maybe?
Last edited by 1990B150318; Jul 8, 2021 at 12:40 PM.
@1990B150318@HeyYou im honestly baffled at this point. Here's the situation. I agree the stud seemed at a bad angle for my liking as well so I've got the hub propped up now so its not as extreme. I had to cut half the stud off to fit this thing on, and also had to give it a little bit of a hook at the tip with my grinder because it just kept sliding off.
It was a pretty close fit before I started turning in the spindle but holy sh*t I'm half way turned in and it hasn't budged. I don't get it. Maybe the stud got hot from the grinder and it needs to cool off a bit, and maybe ill take the torch to the knuckle again later but I'm at a loss for words really. the thing is not budging.
Harder for it to bend... if you can get it to fit in there. Haven't done a ball stud just tie rods and drag link with it.
The first picture looks good, but the second picture it seems the tool is affixed in a way where it is putting lateral pressure on the joint. You need a straight shot up and down.
Last but not least, I'm not mechanic, just started on these things a few weeks ago.
Watched a lot of videos and it seems almost every one has the toughest ball joint ever.
Hallelujah! She's free!!!! WOOOO
Went and bought the biggest hammer I could swing inside the wheel well and bashed on it for about 15 minutes and she finally gave in. The project continues! Now I get to learn how to use the ball joint press.
Gonna keep this thread alive because I know I'll have more questions. First next question being, do I have to take this rotor off to remove this damn wire?? If so that is dummmmb