I think that door over the propane fill is where your house batteries are located. Those are different from the vehicle battery. There will be one or two deep cycle marine batteries. They are what run the interior lights when you aren't plugged into shore power. (Shore power is an electrical line from the house, garage or what ever at a camp ground.) It will probably have a 30 amp input for shore power.

If you've never dealt with RV's, there is a lingo used based on ships but is also unique. If the rear bumper is square and hollow, it's also probably where your "stink slinky" is stored. (Black and grey water sewage dump hose. Be sure to have lots of rubber or latex gloves handy.) Input lines from shore are one of three types. 15 amp, basically an extension cord like you would use for a vacuum cleaner. 30 amp, a fairly large three prong plug with a unique shape. Lastly 50 amp, that's the one for Class A rids with all sorts of things like a washer dryer system inside. There are numerous adapters out there to use.

If you buy it, you'll have a learning curve. You have to watch clearance overhead, but it will fit inside a good sized parking space. If you travel, it's fine for one or two people. Windy days with cross winds are as exciting as you might think. I don't know if there is an "RV's For Dummies" book but there is one called "Complete Idiots Guide to RVing" that is mostly stuff I knew when I got my Class B. There were a few nuggets though that I didn't know. It will help with the RV based parts of ownership and the mechanical is basic van mechanics.

 

When it comes to the driving aspect, im fairly versed in that aspect. I drive a large box truck for work, monday-friday, so I know how larger vehicles act in different weather. I did notice in the very back on the drivers side was a small cubby with cords and other things, and they all looked to be in usable conditions. I am planning on removing the black and grey water tanks, as I honestly don't feel that i would need them. Also, it might help a small bit on some weight reduction.

 

Make sure the tanks are empty before you try to remove them. I watched a guy cut the straps on a black tank that was nearly full once. I'm sure he won't do that again. That cubby might have a fitting for an outdoor shower. Mine did. The removal of the tanks will also let you remove the toilet and shower. This will free up quite a bit of room inside. Maybe put a three way refrigerator in back. A small one that runs on 12 volt, propane and 120 volt. Take care removing the tanks and you can resell them. One tip before you remove them, if they don't leak, fill your black tank especially about half full with water and let it slosh around. Human poo tends to settle and get solid and is hard to get out. Maybe stop by an RV dealer and see if the parts department has an enzyme to soften it. You might even see if they know anybody looking for used black and grey tanks.

Don't be too sure on driving the rig. Back in the early 70's I drove everything from a semi with 45 and 48 foot trailers (53 footers weren't legal back then) to,, when I refused to drive a truck loaded with dynamite, a 1 ton pickup with an odd looking bed on the back. When I got to the job site, the foreman was impressed. I had a load of blasting caps. Dynamite is hard to get to explode but blasting caps are what make holes in the highway if you mess up. Let's say you drive a 1 1/2 ton box truck, 8.5 feet wide and 11 foot clearance. It will drive like a Cadillac compared to the MUCH narrower Class B. Narrower foot print, shorter chassis and probably a higher weight ratio for tire tread width and depth. Class B's don't even drive like a conversion van.

One thing I never asked about is where you and the van are located. There are winterizing things to consider on location.

 

Down in Houston area. And good tip on the tanks, im pretty sure if they're in good shape they'll be sold quickly.

 

I was down in Houston right as Ida was coming in a couple of years back. Everybody was complaining about the heat but I thought it wasn't that bad. I live 3 miles from the Ohio river and in the river valley, we get humidity like you wouldn't believe. So it wasn't that bad down in your neck of the woods. I will say the police were cool. On Sunday when I as leaving, I was heading north out of town and running 10 mph over the speed limit. Traffic was passing me on both sides. An officer pulled up next to me, blipped his siren and motioned for me to go faster. I sped up to 80, traffic was still passing me, just not as fast.

During the winter, you'll need to empty the blue water tank and put the RV antifreeze in the lines. Other than that, you don't need to do too much. One caveat is your furnace vents. You want the metal mesh vents to keep wasps from building nests in the pipe and putting carbon monoxide inside. If you do end up buying it, get a copy of "Complete idiots guide to RV's" A lot of it is common sense, but there are a few gems in there.

 

I have a similar van, mine is an 89 5.2 with a 4sp and EFI
There should be a sticker under the hood, stuck to the hood likely, that shows original equipment.
If it has EFI I believe the first year of that was 88
if it has a 4sp I belive the first year for that was 89 but it would be the light duty A500 until 92 I think...
I saw you are fairly certain its a 5.9, with EFI and an OD transmission you should get 14/15mpg hwy if you keep the speed of that brick down
To be sure on the engine,
Check your VIN and that sticker. That is your golden ID. However if you think its been modified, older vans its not unheard of, you will have to look for yourself. Pop the doghouse and look if its a carb. Also go underneath and meausre the transmission, the lenght of the unit will tell you what transmission you have:
The A500 and A518 are 4sp The 727 and 904 are 3sp

 

Yes it has the 5.9 and the 727 transmission. Now when I put the vin in my insurance to get an idea for cost, it showed up that it couldn't find it. Yet, when i put the vin in an online decoder it pulls it up. Not sure why that is, but i'm not too worried about it.

 

Likley the insurance component just does not have the data on anything older than 92 or so (dont know the year they cut off)
your likely to see around 11.5mpg with that. I had a 1979 B300 almost identical I drove for 11,700km last summer from coast to coast Canada.
I averaged 11.5mpg with it and I was careful to keep it in the sweet spot. I did get 13mpg on one tank tho, when I was near sea level.

 

That would be so fun. Im excited, tomorrows the day I go back out there and talk to the guy. As long as it runs, it's definetaly coming home with me. I can't wait to do some long trips!

 

So according to the owner, it needs the freeze plug replaced. Is that a big issue?