IDK, my answer is generic as I have not been under there to see exactly where the frost plugs are on the LA block in these vans.
They can be a bitch, behind things and hard to reach, they can also be right in the open and easy to get to. They are not hard to do, but I have never done one on a vehicle, just on an engine stand...

I wonder tho, why... a frost plug exists so that if the water freezes in the engine it pushes the plug out as it expands and can sometimes prevent major block cracking kinda damage...
Did the water freeze in this engine!!

 

I have had the steel freeze plugs rust out..... something that was pretty common on the 2nd gen trucks. One of 'em was right behind the engine mount, so, 'stuff' collected there...

How much of an effort it is, depends a LOT on WHICH freeze plug it is.... there are a couple between the engine and trans, that are not fun to get to. (gotta pull the engine, or the trans....) When you replace them, get brass plugs. Fewer issues with those.

 

I messaged my uncle who has a very high knowledge of these kind of things, and from what he told me there are 3. 2 in the front and one that would require the trans to be dropped. From what he's said I don't feel all together worried about changing them out, also compared with the fact that when I asked how bad it was, the owner informed me that it was a small leak. So while it DOES need to be replaced, it's not a massive thing.

 

Get it home, find the leak, go from there. Do NOT use any 'stop leak', or other snake oil, that actually causes more problems than it solves. You want it reliable, and that is NOT the way.

 

Ive never had much faith in those things anyway.

 

Freeze plug is a misnomer. They are plugs closing the holes in the block for shaking the sand out after casting. What happens is someone doesn't keep the antifreeze up to date. I change it every 3 to 5 years. I also change it when I get a vehicle. The anti-FREEZE part never goes away. The anti-CORROSION fades afte 4 or 5 years. Then the different metals can eat away at metal through electrolysis. They can be a bear to get to. If I swap or remove an engine for any reason, I replace all the plugs.

If it's just seeping and you aren't driving 100 miles, loosen the radiator cap one notch. This will keep pressure from building up. That will slow the leak. You won't blow coolant but you also won't build up pressure.

 

Well, officially can say that I love this van. Just picked it up this afternoon. Small issues that were to be expected (tires need to be replaced, going to need a new battery,) but I don't think ive ever ridden in something that rides as smooth as that. The only issue was the front passenger brakes locked up on me about 10-12 miles out. So, a small tow and some down time, I still think this is a fantastic van. Can't wait to start tearing into it and bringing it back to the road!

 

Either a caliper has some rust or one of the flex hoses failed inside. Considering the age, that's not surprising. Find which wheel in front is stuck. Take the wheel off and open the bleed screw. If it releases, you have a collapsed hose. They will let pressure in but not out. If you have one bad one the other two are probably not far behind. (2 in front and one at the rear axle.) You may find other things failing because of age. Rear wheel cylinders can seep or lock up too. With a 1 ton van, I'd suggest replacement tires be light truck tires.

A couple of suggestions for putting it back on the road. 3 in 1 motor oil has a good penetrant. Put some of it on the door hinges, hood hinges, and in the ignition and door lock cylinders. These will let things loosen up. Absolutely do NOT use WD-40. It does loosen rust and is great for displacing moisture. However, it is also a good cutting oil. Put it in the locks and each time you put a key in or turn a lock, it will wear the tumblers.Also get some spray white lithium grease and lubricate the hood latch. Nothing like the cable breaking with the hood shut.

 

Sounds good! Yeah, the wheel that locked up was the front passenger side. I'm not expecting it to be perfect, so I plan on taking my time and making sure it's safe and ready to go. Last thing I want is an accident and someone gets hurt because I didn't check stuff. Im already looking at replacing both front calipers just for piece of mind.

 

Personally, I'd replace the rubber flex hoses while I was replacing the caliper. Once it's off the caliper, you have a bolt and another hose fitting to undo. If there is any dry rot cracking on the hose, definitely replace it. There's a third one in back to the axle assembly. Those don't fail as often, but it's the same age and why not?