Still waiting for the fuel pressure gauge to test fuel pressure to arrive this evening. Temps dropped back down into the 30s last night. Wouldn't start this morning. Son tried starting fluid again this afternoon with no luck and this time we can't get it started. I think the battery died while trying. We've already tried the auxiliary cycle thing to prime the injectors. That didn't work. We did find out one thing, my son can pull the key out of the ignition while the vehicle is running which seems a bit suspicious. He doesn't have any issues turning it into auxiliary or turning the engine over however and didn't know this was an issue until a couple days ago when his friend was messing around and yanked the key out. While I understand the pump may not be building up enough pressure to start, you'd think starting fluid might get it to start do something however. You'd also expect the no start issue to be consistent regardless of temperature. It is not. On warm days he can start it after a couple key turns typically. On cold days it's near impossible. We were suspicious about the PCM/ECM early on before we got it started. We did check it for coolant. I'd like to do the hair dryer test but I'm not exactly sure how to get it out to my driveway. Might have to buy a very long extension cord or borrow my folks inverter. I've read up on "freezing" the PCM when the heat sink causes it to go on fritz when it gets hot, but I'm unfamiliar with heating it. I'm intrigued. Worth a try. Haven't ruled out ignition module either. When he parked it yesterday he still wasn't throwing any codes. I tried to read live data and it's telling me that this mode is not supported, but then I can't get the car started either so I assume that is the reason. I'd like to check that temp if possible. So here are my questions to you all:

Bad temp sensor?
Bad ignition switch?
Bad cell in his battery?
Bad cam or crank sensor?

 

The PC board inside the PCM can develop cracks, when cold those cracks widen which interrupts circuit functions. Heating the PCM causes the PC board to expand and close those cracks, allowing circuits to work once again. That is how temperature can make a difference. If electricity is an issue I've done this test with a propane torch, just take the time to heat the PCM slowly and don't get too close.

 

Ok, we tried the hair dryer to the computer and either it wasn't hot enough or it didn't work. We ended up replacing the PCV valve as we damaged it prior checking a vacuum issue. We also replaced the ignition pick up which looked dated. We got a strong firing which sounded like it was attempting to catch all cylinders now. Got it started again on the 3rd try. Turned off the car, restart and instantly started with no issue....again. Let it sit over night and again hard to start, but stronger firing like the prior day. 3 turns while pumping gas and we got it started. My son said that flooring the gas seems to help which I understand will clear the intake from flooding. I was able to do a live diag of the vehicle while running. It appears the temp sensor is preforming correctly and is recording the engine temp correctly. Still no present or pending codes. Again, I should note that we can withdraw the key from the ignition while running. We also checked the fuel pressure after sitting over night and got high pressure after sitting 2 days and also while cranking. I also should note here I did order a fuel pressure gauge, but my dumb *** accidentally ordered a "Petrol Engine Cylinder Compression Tester Kit" which was an alternative option for the fuel pressure tester I was looking at on Amazon based on price. I didn't read all the details (and as they look very similar) I ordered it instead. We haven't sent it back because....we are not done with this van yet.

It feels like it's starved of air. That's the honest truth. We've checked over spark and fuel, but it just seems like an air issue especially if flooring the gas helps to aid in flooding but also seems to help start it. This issue isn't corrected by pulling off the filter. Suggestions here?

 

If pulling the air filter doesn't help, then air isn't the problem. Too much fuel could be a real issue though. If the PCM thinks the engine is close to the same temp as the air before you start it, I would be tempted to lift the injectors out of the manifold, leaving them in the fuel rail, and cycling the key a few times to pressurize the system, and see if you don't have some leaking injectors.

 

This morning it started right up. My son drove it to school. When he went to leave school 5.5 hours later and it wouldn't start. He tried getting it to start until the battery died and had to be jumped. He finally got it to run, drove it to work and let it sit again for another 6 hours. When he left work it started right up again with out issue. Still no codes, no misfires. Drives great. Can it honestly be an injector issue with no misfire and it feels like it's hitting on all cylinders? I'd assume bad injectors would cause a misfire? At this moment the two things I see as being potentially problematic are the ECM and that ignition switch.

 

In my experiences, the issue you're having points to a failing PCM.

 

i will say this again. you need to replace the ignition switch module. black box under your key tumbler. and knowing now you can take the key out while started and running tells me that you also need a new ignition tumbler. might as well replace the black ignition box right next to it while youve got it taken apart. If i could bet on it, i would bet plenty on the fact your Ignition switch module is going out. it will still start and run on occasion. and will make you think its temperture related because it will run once you get it running and then will not run after it sits. its simply a bad ignition module. trust me ive done everything you are doing on this thread. had the same suspitions with fuel issues, compression, pcm, wires and pickup. i had all the same issues. take my word and replace your ignition switch module. while youre at it replace the tumbler. this will keep your key from being able to eject while in the run position.

 

I tried to figure out exactly what part this is for this vehicle. Running it at parts stores under "ignition switch module" brings up odd parts like relays and MSD kits that do not fit the van. Other part stores tell me there is NO ignition control module available. Is this a dealer only part or is this model not equip with one? What do I need to be looking for? My son just pulled off the column trim piece and can tell that someone has been in the column before due to the amount of electrical tape and how loose column trim piece was. Guess I'll be in their poking around later to check the wiring and look for the "ignition switch module". Thanks for the advice.

 

Even I don't know to what you are referring. Can you post a picture of what part you're talking about?

 

A new ignition switch is what he is referring to. The tumbler goes inside the switch housing or module as he says. You can just ignore the housing and module and look for an ignition switch. My local parts store keeps them in stock as they are a common fail item.