this box is called the ignition switch.

this part is the ignition tumbler.

 

Depending on where you shop, searching ignition switch brings up lock cylinders. I was able to find one at O'Reilly's under "ignition starter switch". My son has it ordered and I have my fingers crossed but feel pretty doubtful at this point. I'm really considering trying to take it in but might have to opt for a private garage as a lot of dealerships here have a rule they won't work on anything over a certain age. It's back to no start so....

Also, that's NOT what it looks like.

 

can u take a picture of your steering column and post it?
upon researching more you are right. i have the 97 model 3500 with the 5.9 v8. our ignition switches are in fact different. still- replacing this will solve your problem. hope its easy to change. also note the lock cylinder is equal to my vans tumbler. just refering to the metal box your key goes in and out of. a broken lock cylinder causes the key to come out while running. the bad ignition starter switch is what causes the crank no start. atleast im 90% positive it is in your case. im confident your issue will be resolved here soon as that new switch goes in let us know how it runs after you put the new one in!

 

okay so is this part ( you posted ) in your steering column that you can see?

refer to the 2 pictures i posted. does your van have an ignition switch like that from what you can see?

look at where your key goes in. is there no black box (ignition switch) with a wire harness plugged into it? id hate for that to be the wrong part. like i said take a picture of the steering column and post it here. with completely strip all the plastic around it away. id like to see what youre looking at. maybe they did use a different switch. i just cant find a visual picture of it online

 

I just did the one in my 96 and it looks like the one posted first. That one with the long bundle of wires I have no clue about. I would say the 97 is the same as the 96. Possibly a different switch when they made the change to the interior and front end in 98.

 

Yes, that is what it looks like and why I was having a hard time trying to find it. I can still take a pic if you all need. Box under lock cylinder and wiring harness wraps around the column and up into the left side where the second box is located. Most of the on line part stores were showing the lock cylinder or a generic pic like that which was previously posted. We have it ordered but may just be taking it into a mechanic at this point. Got it started after much engine cranking and pumping the hell out of the gas today according to my son. As soon as I heard it start I ran out to read the diag info and took screen shot pics. This is the vehicle running under after we let the engine idle and warm up to regular operating temps. We did NOT drive it. I honestly don't know if it will make any difference, but just in case this jogs someones mind and clues them into a problem here they are. Mind you, no codes and no pre codes are being set by the vehicle. It drives great. Excuse the pink. I'm in my PJs.

 

Short term fuel trims seem way out of whack. -22%??? That just can't be right..... But, shouldn't matter for starting, or open loop operation....

 

I ran the diag shortly after starting the vehicle before the engine warmed up and got a -10.9 but that was after the engine had idled long enough for me to run out of the house, plug up the OBD II reader and navigate the menu. I didn't include those as I do not feel it's an accurate picture of start up conditions, but can if anyone is interested. I'm still wondering about the ECU. It's so incredibly weird. Super hard to start after sitting for 4+ hours, but once it starts it starts on the first try over and over again and runs great until it sits again. It's just the initial start up after sitting that is the problem. I remember setting the timing in my Mustang back in the day and not getting it perfect and the no start issues that would result. It feels a bit like that. Like if I could just 'bump' the distributor a hair it would start. That being said, I'm assuming this has an electric timing feature maybe-ECU? You'll have to excuse my ignorance as I've been out of the automotive field for a very long time and the newer stuff on these cars I don't always understand. I went to school back in the early 2000s and went on to work as a service advisor and manager for a while. Most of what I had was book smart and that's been fleeting as I'm not longer in the field. I have a basic working knowledge I guess. At this point I'm suspecting sensor/electric related. It's just really frustrating being a 'mechanic' and still just throwing parts at it. I went to school so I wouldn't need the Auto Zone method of repair. I feel like I'm letting me son down and this van is suppose to be his Senior trip car for his trip in June, but at this rate it's just a temperamental yard ornament. I'm just so frustrated. Thanks for your help.

 

So what's missing when it won't start?? Getting spark? Got fuel pressure? Injector pulse?

 

replacing that ignition switch shouldnt be hard. the lock cylinder is the tricky part. mind that turning a new lock cylinder after its installed correctly does feel a bit sticky and stiff so dont be discouraged. it will need to be " worn in " for lack of a better term.

also expect some PCM relearning time once the new ignition switch is in. When i changed mine, it fixed my spiratic crank no start problem and started up quickly altho it struggled to run smooth at idle at first. so you may or may not need to give it gas to keep it running like i did. so what i did was give it a drive around the block a few times and parked back at the house everything smoothed out. i learned that the PCM has to relearn firing strength with replacing an old dead ignition switch.

Now about the misfire engine code. i have a plenum plate on my van. HeyYou would know weather or not your 99 3.9L van has one. but if your engine oil levels are low and your check engine light is NOT illuminated. add the oil to safe level on stick, then once it gets up and driving pay attention to if engine light comes back on. MY vans engine light throws multiple misfire code due to the leaking factory plenum plate. once it burns most of the oil the misfire goes away..

with this plenum gasket leak- oil gets into the firing chambers and will dull out your spark slightly. it may also be why the ignition switch fried too. you may or may not have the plenum plate but you could have a pcv leak or some kind of leak in the upper manifold gasket. easy way to check is to look down your throttle body with engine off and press gas pedal max to open throttle body. if you see oil pooling. you got a leak. if not. youre lucky.