Hey all, I just installed new a/c evap, dryer, blower and some o- rings/gaskets. dobbs tire service drained my a/c lines prior to install of new parts. Everything went on good. Vaccum tested after - no leaks. Vaccumed one hour to boil off moisture. After doing so, I added 3-4 ounces of pag 46 oil to the system as replacing the evap and dryer called for it. Correct me if I'm wrong. This was the first time I charged a dry system. The dual system calls for 60 oz of r134a. But when i was charging it, it only took 44 oz. I then realized i didnt have my rear fans switch on any speed. The ac compressor was replaced about 2 years ago says the previous owner. I am trying to figure out why the system isn't blowing ice cold. I haven't used a thermo needle in vents yet but plan to do that tomorrow. Edit- the low pressure lines are ice cold and condensating. The high pressure lines are very hot. I assume this would be an ideal overview of the system working correctly.

first question. Did I mess up by not turning the rear a/c on high fan speed prior to charging the system ( I did have the front fans on high max a/c and the compressor did kick on. I watched the high side increase, as low side decreased eventually leading to a steady reading of about 220 psi on high side and about 45-50psi on the low side) Would that hinder a full charge of the entire system not having the rear fans running? Explaining why it only took 44oz to charge when calls for 60? Also what steps should I take from this point? Could I have added too much oil? I will report back tomorrow with a temp reading from dash and rear blower. It just seems like a brand new ac system should blow colder. Thank u for reading and all help posted. Hope to figure this out before work week starts Monday.

 

What was ambient temp when you were checking pressures?

 

84 degrees F and 77% humidity

 

Wonder if you blend door isn't closing all the way....

 

so yea I started thinking the same. It was that original nasty brown foam that crumbles to dust when you blow on it. I did preform a test on the blend door and the cable seems to be pushing the door all the way from one side to the other. Not sure if it has an effective sealing affect. Referring to the door that separates the evap and heater core. Now the other door below that just controls vent setting like feet warmer and such, correct? Both doors are pretty rotted but still in tact. Know of any reputable auto stores that sell the aftermarket design? I'm thinking that my heater core and ac evap are sharing some air, giving me not so cool air and even cooler heat, Considering the test was at full opperating temp. Heat should been hotter. Heat gets hotter when compressor is off. Certain vent settings will turn compressor on even if heat is maxed out.

 

Check out Blend Door USA, they are a sponsor on the site.

 

Also just thought about this.... WHAT IF.... i bypassed the heater core in the summer time by hooking up those Y- ports under hood to just circulate thru eachother? Like using a rubber hose to go from inlet to outlet/vice versa where the heater core would plug in at under hood.. Then plugging the heater core fittings with some type of rubber cap. That would technically work, wouldn't it? That way I'm maxing out ac potential and not mixing air.

 

There are vacuum powered valves as well...... Bypassing the heater core will certainly help A/C, if door leakage is part of the problem.

 

Is this system a single loop system? I have a rear unit with a blower and box underneath the metal vents. (Blower And vents stick up from the floor) Altho the temp does not change when ajusting from dash controlls. Could there be a clog somewhere? Not sure how the dual system works. There's a lever and handle visible. The lever closes and opens the vent. There's a **** up above the vent that is supposed to lift up and push down. Right now seems to be stuck in the down position. Want to get this van ready as can be for next summer. Anything I should look into replacing ?

 

On that, I have no idea, never had to play with one....