New radiator advice and possible e-fan conversion
Well shipecm company said the PCM didn't have any codes indicating voltage regulator problem. Although weird i didn't have such problems until i replaced PCM but could be coincidence.
I will do some more testing when replacement shows up but hoping replacement is a fix.
Thanks for all the information.
I will do some more testing when replacement shows up but hoping replacement is a fix.
Thanks for all the information.
Yep replacement PCM exact same problem. I feel bad for returning it and company stating there is no problem with it but they sent me replacement anyways.
I also tested with another working battery, same high volts.
I also tested with another working battery, same high volts.
So either you have really bad luck with replacement PCMs...... (and you wouldn't be the first one either......
) Or, the field wire to the alternator is shorted to voltage somewhere else, causing the condition. I believe the field windings are pulse-width-modulated though, so, would really need an oscilloscope to see what signal the alternator is actually getting..... An external regulator MAY solve the problem, but, you wouldn't be able to leave the stock wiring in place... and I am uncertain if that would annoy the PCM or not..
) Or, the field wire to the alternator is shorted to voltage somewhere else, causing the condition. I believe the field windings are pulse-width-modulated though, so, would really need an oscilloscope to see what signal the alternator is actually getting..... An external regulator MAY solve the problem, but, you wouldn't be able to leave the stock wiring in place... and I am uncertain if that would annoy the PCM or not..
I do understand the notorious regulator problem in these PCMs but if they were able to test the one i sent back saying there is no problem and have exact same high voltages from replacement I'll hopefully presume its not the PCM.
Is there a way to test alternator voltage before PCM input?
Is there a way to test alternator voltage before PCM input?
Well guy from AutoZone who owns 3 dodges and a dakota said just buy a alternator and return it if it doesn't work (im like I can do that!?) lol. So that's exactly what i did.
New alternator didn't help.
Going to start cleaning all the ground wires.
Anything else i should be looking for or to do?
New alternator didn't help.
Going to start cleaning all the ground wires.
Anything else i should be looking for or to do?
Hey guess what. After making every ground shinny and clean but still same high volts. I decided to try a different multimeter.
Well you can already guess it. All that wasted time for nothing. Even tested bad multimeter on other vehicles, same high volts.
Although still doesn't explain why my battery is leaking acid out the top vents. Doesn't look over filled. They are refunding me for the battery since its only 5 months old. So I guess I'll just use it until it goes dead.
Needless to say thanks for all the help. At least i learned some stuff thanks to you guise. Also a good 6 ground and relay box connections cleaning is a plus
Who knows what condition this replacement PCM i got is in.
Has warranty void if removed sticker on it so idk if thats a good or bad sign since its been worked on before. Hopefully not a cardon brand of reman that seem to fail quickly.
Also would be nice to know what firmware it has on it to know if its flashed for knock "fix".
Well you can already guess it. All that wasted time for nothing. Even tested bad multimeter on other vehicles, same high volts.
Although still doesn't explain why my battery is leaking acid out the top vents. Doesn't look over filled. They are refunding me for the battery since its only 5 months old. So I guess I'll just use it until it goes dead.
Needless to say thanks for all the help. At least i learned some stuff thanks to you guise. Also a good 6 ground and relay box connections cleaning is a plus
Who knows what condition this replacement PCM i got is in.
Has warranty void if removed sticker on it so idk if thats a good or bad sign since its been worked on before. Hopefully not a cardon brand of reman that seem to fail quickly.
Also would be nice to know what firmware it has on it to know if its flashed for knock "fix".









