Motor Oil
#1
07-30-2004, 02:58 AM
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Motor Oil
What oil should you use in a 98 Ram 1500 5.9L, I'm changing my oil at work tomorrow and I got some Mobile Clean Drive 10W30, and a Tough Guard Fram Filter. Anyone got any other suggestions for oil, this stuff costs 1.50 a quart what seperates it from the 5 dollar stuff, besides the brand name. I mean its just motor oil isn't it, and besides I don't need anything peak perfomrnace or racing, or other stuff the write all over the bottles.
MIke.
MIke.
#2
07-30-2004, 04:04 AM
RE: Motor Oil
Synthetic, Mobil One. Protect your investment. Simple. Lube is NOT all the same. Do some searches, educate yourself.
You spend money on looks, sound, bed protection..ect.....but nothing to protect the engine????
Chrome wont get you home, look at the big picture.
Good lube does not equal racing, it is a money saver and intelligence.
Analogy: "why wipe my ***; it will just get dirty again"
Take some pride.... or just keep that mill wet, and change a filter whenever.
You spend money on looks, sound, bed protection..ect.....but nothing to protect the engine????
Chrome wont get you home, look at the big picture.
Good lube does not equal racing, it is a money saver and intelligence.
Analogy: "why wipe my ***; it will just get dirty again"
Take some pride.... or just keep that mill wet, and change a filter whenever.
#3
08-04-2004, 12:32 PM
RE: Motor Oil
Bulldog, as you can see this is my first post here and we don't know each other, but I surely don't want to second guess anyone and make them mad. While I use Mobil One Synthetic and the expensive Purolator filters on my Ram, his is a '98 4x4. Do you think it would still do him good to switch to synthetic? I've always thought once your engine is "seasoned" to an oil you should stick with it. Not only would I suggest sticking the same TYPE of oil, I'd go so far as to say don't even switch brands or weight!
I know Mobil One themselves have switched back and forth on this topic a few times along with if synthetic is good for extended oil change intervals. Hopefully someone will get it straightened out at some point.
Chances are you'll do good to switch, but if you've been doing some heavy load towing or even slightly neglected your oil changes in the past, I'd would stick with what you've got. Synthetic won't fix existing issues like sludge build up or extensive wear.
I know Mobil One themselves have switched back and forth on this topic a few times along with if synthetic is good for extended oil change intervals. Hopefully someone will get it straightened out at some point.
Chances are you'll do good to switch, but if you've been doing some heavy load towing or even slightly neglected your oil changes in the past, I'd would stick with what you've got. Synthetic won't fix existing issues like sludge build up or extensive wear.
#4
08-04-2004, 09:42 PM
RE: Motor Oil
Well this going to be a relatively long post. After reading my previous post, perhaps I was a bit harsh, to be perfectly honest I'm frustrated and somewhat irritated at the "MYTHS" involved with lubrication.
Some of the myths that I have read or herd but not limited to:
Changing to synthetic from conventional oil will cause; leaks, premature breakdown of oil, immediate wear, long term wear, run hot, excessive oil consumption, burning of oil, on and on...
None, and I mean NONE of these claim have yet or even close to being substantiated.
Not all oil is alike, lubricating properties, detergent used, amount of detergent, viscosity, and the ability to maintain a specific viscosity and/or to have a memory, maintaining viscosity at a specified temperature. There are special "additive packages" mixed into oil, this varies dramatically from type, blend, and manufacture. I'm not going to get into that.
Here is a quick and easy "mythbuster" ( BTW I would love to work with them) there are on the market at this time.... synthetic BLENDS! This is synthetic oil mixed with dead dinosaur. They will mix, without devastating results! Thus you can switch, it's utterly remarkable.
Lubricating properties of synthetic oil, verses conventional are just plain superior, in addition the viscosity memory is dramatically increased.
Around eight years ago, it was time to do in house testing. We were concerned with some of these rumors, but were were looking for a specific result. Long, loooong story short, we came up with about the same as other large companies, that did the same testing. It was extremely easy to get conventional oil to fail, and fail well before there claims. When I say fail, I mean lost all lubricating ability..metal to metal. Synthetic was considerably higher, this oil set the bar. There is so much to write about this event, it would take me all day, this little paragraph is highly revised.
Something else to consider when you see claims of oil and racing. Oil manufactures pay BIG contingency money when racing, I can definitely say that I have raced with an oil that I didn't much care for, but the money they paid in contingency was so great it didn't much matter! Oh, and BTW do you actually thing John Force is dumping quarts of Castro GTX in that funny car? NO!!!! This is a fact!
Another aspect or misconception is synthetic equals racing, not true. For the most part, what you get at your local parts store is not designed for racing. It is designed for everyday use. With a considerable amount of added protection.
I'm not going to tell you how many engines I've opened up, machined, built and have seen. It only took 1 engine, to see the honest truth. Others after that just confirmed and supported the benefits of synthetic.
Okay now I'll throw out an opinion or two for "Hight"..
You mentioned "seasoned" engine... I believe you are mistaken, the only time I use the term is new vs. used, used being a seasoned block and such. In actuality, what your saying is an engine that has used conventional oil all it's life needs to stick with it even after rebuild. As you take in a nasty used block, and tank/pressure wash, whatever, you will never get all the oil out of the casting. This is a fact!... So we need to stay with whatever oil was in it?
Next, is same oil type, and viscosity? Apparently other oil will not agree?
Finally sludge, and wear, if you change oil to synthetic it will not help? It will be detrimental?
My opinion is if you do use the engine a bit hard (towing) and you may have neglected oil changes, and it's getting a bit loose... THIS is the best candidate for synthetic. Mobil 1 carries a huge amount of detergents, also it will stop the wear in its tracks. Or at least a fighting chance.
I ask you "hight" or anyone to just simply prove me incorrect. Educate me, show me why your opinion is correct. Also, if there was some 150,000 motor that was switched to synthetic, then shortly there after had some mechanical failure, well it was there before, good oil didn't do it. Leaks?? If there is any truth to that, well there were already there, and sludge was holding them back. I have yet to see one.
I'm not advocating Mobil 1, it's easy to get, readily available and from personal experience it can be used a the "poor mans" racing oil. I have had extremely great results, and have never received a dime from Mobil inc.
I do have an idea about this anti-synthetic creation or idea. I get this from an older relative. He is diehard against synthetic, but he has the most engine failure of any man I know, or 3 men I know. Lost 4 engines last year alone. Another funny story.
But my point is, perhaps your Dad, a hotrod guy, a racer down the way whatever hates synthetic. You grow up with that, this guy has the neatest cars around me and I'm all of 15-17years old, and I listen to him. Regardless if he is any good, or has an idea about it, its new technology that they don't understand, refuse to learn, and therefore is not needed or bad. Fine, I'm not going to even try anymore with the old age and treachery, at the same time this type of individual "usually" does not build a roller motor, and certainly does not touch injection....let alone a new Hemi!!! LOL The stigmata surrounding the synthetic oil is somewhat fascinating. I here all the time that it's worked for me for 20+ years... okay that's great, so nothing was introduced that might be better in these last 20 yrs?
Ridiculous to think that synthetic is detrimental, I'm one of the few that you will meet or read that has actually done testing, I'm not talking about some frying pan and a torch, I'm talking about destroying parts, and spending my own money.
Very disturbing to see SO many people throwing out a suggestion, without ANY knowledge of lubrication and it's properties. "Oh it's still running must be good" well that not necessarily true!
Some of the myths that I have read or herd but not limited to:
Changing to synthetic from conventional oil will cause; leaks, premature breakdown of oil, immediate wear, long term wear, run hot, excessive oil consumption, burning of oil, on and on...
None, and I mean NONE of these claim have yet or even close to being substantiated.
Not all oil is alike, lubricating properties, detergent used, amount of detergent, viscosity, and the ability to maintain a specific viscosity and/or to have a memory, maintaining viscosity at a specified temperature. There are special "additive packages" mixed into oil, this varies dramatically from type, blend, and manufacture. I'm not going to get into that.
Here is a quick and easy "mythbuster" ( BTW I would love to work with them) there are on the market at this time.... synthetic BLENDS! This is synthetic oil mixed with dead dinosaur. They will mix, without devastating results! Thus you can switch, it's utterly remarkable.
Lubricating properties of synthetic oil, verses conventional are just plain superior, in addition the viscosity memory is dramatically increased.
Around eight years ago, it was time to do in house testing. We were concerned with some of these rumors, but were were looking for a specific result. Long, loooong story short, we came up with about the same as other large companies, that did the same testing. It was extremely easy to get conventional oil to fail, and fail well before there claims. When I say fail, I mean lost all lubricating ability..metal to metal. Synthetic was considerably higher, this oil set the bar. There is so much to write about this event, it would take me all day, this little paragraph is highly revised.
Something else to consider when you see claims of oil and racing. Oil manufactures pay BIG contingency money when racing, I can definitely say that I have raced with an oil that I didn't much care for, but the money they paid in contingency was so great it didn't much matter! Oh, and BTW do you actually thing John Force is dumping quarts of Castro GTX in that funny car? NO!!!! This is a fact!
Another aspect or misconception is synthetic equals racing, not true. For the most part, what you get at your local parts store is not designed for racing. It is designed for everyday use. With a considerable amount of added protection.
I'm not going to tell you how many engines I've opened up, machined, built and have seen. It only took 1 engine, to see the honest truth. Others after that just confirmed and supported the benefits of synthetic.
Okay now I'll throw out an opinion or two for "Hight"..
You mentioned "seasoned" engine... I believe you are mistaken, the only time I use the term is new vs. used, used being a seasoned block and such. In actuality, what your saying is an engine that has used conventional oil all it's life needs to stick with it even after rebuild. As you take in a nasty used block, and tank/pressure wash, whatever, you will never get all the oil out of the casting. This is a fact!... So we need to stay with whatever oil was in it?
Next, is same oil type, and viscosity? Apparently other oil will not agree?
Finally sludge, and wear, if you change oil to synthetic it will not help? It will be detrimental?
My opinion is if you do use the engine a bit hard (towing) and you may have neglected oil changes, and it's getting a bit loose... THIS is the best candidate for synthetic. Mobil 1 carries a huge amount of detergents, also it will stop the wear in its tracks. Or at least a fighting chance.
I ask you "hight" or anyone to just simply prove me incorrect. Educate me, show me why your opinion is correct. Also, if there was some 150,000 motor that was switched to synthetic, then shortly there after had some mechanical failure, well it was there before, good oil didn't do it. Leaks?? If there is any truth to that, well there were already there, and sludge was holding them back. I have yet to see one.
I'm not advocating Mobil 1, it's easy to get, readily available and from personal experience it can be used a the "poor mans" racing oil. I have had extremely great results, and have never received a dime from Mobil inc.
I do have an idea about this anti-synthetic creation or idea. I get this from an older relative. He is diehard against synthetic, but he has the most engine failure of any man I know, or 3 men I know. Lost 4 engines last year alone. Another funny story.
But my point is, perhaps your Dad, a hotrod guy, a racer down the way whatever hates synthetic. You grow up with that, this guy has the neatest cars around me and I'm all of 15-17years old, and I listen to him. Regardless if he is any good, or has an idea about it, its new technology that they don't understand, refuse to learn, and therefore is not needed or bad. Fine, I'm not going to even try anymore with the old age and treachery, at the same time this type of individual "usually" does not build a roller motor, and certainly does not touch injection....let alone a new Hemi!!! LOL The stigmata surrounding the synthetic oil is somewhat fascinating. I here all the time that it's worked for me for 20+ years... okay that's great, so nothing was introduced that might be better in these last 20 yrs?
Ridiculous to think that synthetic is detrimental, I'm one of the few that you will meet or read that has actually done testing, I'm not talking about some frying pan and a torch, I'm talking about destroying parts, and spending my own money.
Very disturbing to see SO many people throwing out a suggestion, without ANY knowledge of lubrication and it's properties. "Oh it's still running must be good" well that not necessarily true!
#5
08-04-2004, 09:54 PM
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RE: Motor Oil
To keep it short and sweet, I agree with what BULLDOG said^^^^^^!!![sm=smiley20.gif]
#6
08-05-2004, 12:16 PM
RE: Motor Oil
Well, I guess a friendly "welcome to the site" is out of the question.
First off, Bulldog, I think you went off the deep end a little on that one. I'm not a newbie car guy so you can stop with the lesson. As a matter of fact, I personally do work with just about every major manufacturer of anything with an internal combustion engine (GM, Mercedes Benz, Volkwagen, Yamaha, Harley Davidson, Caterpillar, Ford, Toyota, etc...), and their second and third tier suppliers, so pardon me if I sound "high and mighty" when I say I know a thing or two about the chemistry of automotives:
http://threeieng.com/p_finish/clients/index.htm
http://threeieng.com/clients/index.htm
Nowhere in my post did I attack you or say that I hated synthetic oil. I am fully aware of the benefits of synthetic oil. You also took the liberty of adding points and commenting on them when I never said or even imply it. Shame on you! I have been using synthetic oil, Mobil 1 in particular, for over 10 years when it WAS hard to find. I have done the research as well and as recently as 5 years ago, Mobil 1's own website said that switching from dino oil to synthetic on a "seasoned" (meaning that the oil additives have penetrated the pores of the iron block) engine was not recommended. I too have switch cars over from dino grease to synthetic without any issue and I never said that switching was a BAD idea. Instead if you read it again I said it MIGHT do him good to switch. Regardless of your "in house testing" (which I would love to see what lab testing protocol you used on that one!) I do know for a fact additives in oil are in no way designed to be compatible with additives from another brand or type of oil. It can create buildup and the additives can "layer" similar to oil and water which can cause significant problems, such as microscoping "ash" (meaning that the oil filter will not catch it, but is still abrasive), and inconsistent viscosity levels.
You spent a lot (and I do mean alot!) of time assuming that I was speaking of the oil itself which is not what I was referring to. If not for the break down of the additives, 5 quarts of either dino or synthetic oils could literally last the lifetime of you car.
It is a shame that someone would go on a tirade because they "assume" nobody but themselves could have any knowledge of car or oil or anything else for that matter. You are entitled to your opinion, but I do disagree on a few of your points. Synthetic will not fix a "loose" engine and YES my friend, synthetic oil is much slicker than dino oil, so it CAN increase the risk of a loose engine spinning a bearing, when dino oil would not!! Even your miraculous sythetic oil isn't perfect. Oh yeah, take a class in respect as well!
First off, Bulldog, I think you went off the deep end a little on that one. I'm not a newbie car guy so you can stop with the lesson. As a matter of fact, I personally do work with just about every major manufacturer of anything with an internal combustion engine (GM, Mercedes Benz, Volkwagen, Yamaha, Harley Davidson, Caterpillar, Ford, Toyota, etc...), and their second and third tier suppliers, so pardon me if I sound "high and mighty" when I say I know a thing or two about the chemistry of automotives:
http://threeieng.com/p_finish/clients/index.htm
http://threeieng.com/clients/index.htm
Nowhere in my post did I attack you or say that I hated synthetic oil. I am fully aware of the benefits of synthetic oil. You also took the liberty of adding points and commenting on them when I never said or even imply it. Shame on you! I have been using synthetic oil, Mobil 1 in particular, for over 10 years when it WAS hard to find. I have done the research as well and as recently as 5 years ago, Mobil 1's own website said that switching from dino oil to synthetic on a "seasoned" (meaning that the oil additives have penetrated the pores of the iron block) engine was not recommended. I too have switch cars over from dino grease to synthetic without any issue and I never said that switching was a BAD idea. Instead if you read it again I said it MIGHT do him good to switch. Regardless of your "in house testing" (which I would love to see what lab testing protocol you used on that one!) I do know for a fact additives in oil are in no way designed to be compatible with additives from another brand or type of oil. It can create buildup and the additives can "layer" similar to oil and water which can cause significant problems, such as microscoping "ash" (meaning that the oil filter will not catch it, but is still abrasive), and inconsistent viscosity levels.
You spent a lot (and I do mean alot!) of time assuming that I was speaking of the oil itself which is not what I was referring to. If not for the break down of the additives, 5 quarts of either dino or synthetic oils could literally last the lifetime of you car.
It is a shame that someone would go on a tirade because they "assume" nobody but themselves could have any knowledge of car or oil or anything else for that matter. You are entitled to your opinion, but I do disagree on a few of your points. Synthetic will not fix a "loose" engine and YES my friend, synthetic oil is much slicker than dino oil, so it CAN increase the risk of a loose engine spinning a bearing, when dino oil would not!! Even your miraculous sythetic oil isn't perfect. Oh yeah, take a class in respect as well!
#7
08-07-2004, 07:02 AM
RE: Motor Oil
hight" I honestly would like to welcome you to the forum. I certainly see the sarcasm, this was not "exactly" my intention. I do like the debate.. I sure do...
I'm also new to the forum, thus I don't want to make waves, nor attack.
I also noticed your articulation, I "assume" there is a bit of education...
If in anyway you thought that this was a direct attack, I'm sorry and I truly apologize, again not my intention. I do want to take the liberty and say, that I'm not going to treat you with "kid-gloves", and would enjoy a civil debate.
Okay, lets get it on!!!!! (That was a joke)... I would like to start of with; "the deep end" yes true, I'm a bit nuts, but not out of line. Reasonably addressed.
Next is the"High & Mighty" not exactly what I was thinking, but your employment?? So I see a couple of pages, of..humm... paint booths? Detailing of surface preparation machines, dryoff and bake ovens, flash tunnels, cooling tunnels...STOP ME...So what do you do?? If you were trying to impress , it didn't happen, I don't know if you change bulbs in a booth, or set concrete. Obviously in the "paint industry'? Not all the automotive industry? If so great, but what have you done in the lubrication realm? I have resources and data. You have?? (I'm betting that your "JOB" is so intense, and applicable to this dissection, you would have mentioned and boasted about it) Oil is NOT dirty mop bucket water.....
Oh you have.."chemistry of automotives" what is that?? PLEASE ELABORATE!!! This is a new one on me!
Now for the next set of issues, I never said you hated this or that..YOU just assumed, not me, please re-read the post. You just pulled this out of the air and said" oh that applies to me.. must be about me"
Next is Mobil 1? I've been on it longer than you, but never hard to find, and as far as MOBIL Inc. declaring a switch from conventional to synthetic is not true! Never happened, ether you are misinformed, or.. not telling the truth. Indeed if I'm incorrect please PROVE ME INCORRECT!!
We are still going, next is filter technicality, the ability to capture "ash" oh.... that is good, okay "microscoping" ash..Humm Is that term correct? Seems that my resources have NEVER herd of such a theory, and or idea. I will notify them of this detrimental possibility. BTW I used an "Oberg" filer in all testing.. That alone says enough.
Getting close to the end, but I have to address "layer" and as to oil and water.. you said, additives are NOT compatible with other additives? Well be a bit more vague next time, what does that mean? Nothing!!!! If you go back to 20yr old technically maybe, other than that, you are 100% incorrect. Perhaps you are talking about "teflon"? or graphite" ....Out dated! WAY OUT DATED!!!!! Buildup? WHen, how and why??? I CALL BS!!!!! SHOW YOUR FACT!!!! Actually I know what can't mix...but no build-up as you said oh and "ash", so please enlighten me!
Now for the B.S....Look at my post, I never put words in your mouth, you did that all on your own, never said it would "fix" a "loose" engine..read again. Oh but "Dino" oil will??? Listen to what you are saying, you show a bit of adolescence.. Just full of it...
Now for the kicker... "Regardless of your "in house testing" (which I would love to see what lab testing protocol you used on that one!)
I feel obligated to elaborate! We set criteria, within this criteria, we planned a particular amount of frailer. We also used theorems derived from the engineering realm of the aeronautical industry.
Now the "protocol" oh boy....Never realized I had one until now, but I will be honest... This set of events was terrible, I consumed a large amount of malted hops, and watched a HUGE amount of money be destroyed! Then did it OVER AN OVER..along with a few other comrades...Notes were taken, and thus the results...
Oh I forgot to mention, the results, along with oil (texas tea) were sent to ... Oh...look out MOBIL...oh gosh, and are they just they just at the end of my street...YEP!!!!!
So now...what is the story....
GUYS HERE IS THE STORY>>>>>>>> Take a look, there is an individual/company that has posted twice, but only on my thread? only about oil? I'm extremely new to this forum, or any for that matter, and having a funny problem!! READ BETWEEN THE LINES...
I'm also new to the forum, thus I don't want to make waves, nor attack.
I also noticed your articulation, I "assume" there is a bit of education...
If in anyway you thought that this was a direct attack, I'm sorry and I truly apologize, again not my intention. I do want to take the liberty and say, that I'm not going to treat you with "kid-gloves", and would enjoy a civil debate.
Okay, lets get it on!!!!! (That was a joke)... I would like to start of with; "the deep end" yes true, I'm a bit nuts, but not out of line. Reasonably addressed.
Next is the"High & Mighty" not exactly what I was thinking, but your employment?? So I see a couple of pages, of..humm... paint booths? Detailing of surface preparation machines, dryoff and bake ovens, flash tunnels, cooling tunnels...STOP ME...So what do you do?? If you were trying to impress , it didn't happen, I don't know if you change bulbs in a booth, or set concrete. Obviously in the "paint industry'? Not all the automotive industry? If so great, but what have you done in the lubrication realm? I have resources and data. You have?? (I'm betting that your "JOB" is so intense, and applicable to this dissection, you would have mentioned and boasted about it) Oil is NOT dirty mop bucket water.....
Oh you have.."chemistry of automotives" what is that?? PLEASE ELABORATE!!! This is a new one on me!
Now for the next set of issues, I never said you hated this or that..YOU just assumed, not me, please re-read the post. You just pulled this out of the air and said" oh that applies to me.. must be about me"
Next is Mobil 1? I've been on it longer than you, but never hard to find, and as far as MOBIL Inc. declaring a switch from conventional to synthetic is not true! Never happened, ether you are misinformed, or.. not telling the truth. Indeed if I'm incorrect please PROVE ME INCORRECT!!
We are still going, next is filter technicality, the ability to capture "ash" oh.... that is good, okay "microscoping" ash..Humm Is that term correct? Seems that my resources have NEVER herd of such a theory, and or idea. I will notify them of this detrimental possibility. BTW I used an "Oberg" filer in all testing.. That alone says enough.
Getting close to the end, but I have to address "layer" and as to oil and water.. you said, additives are NOT compatible with other additives? Well be a bit more vague next time, what does that mean? Nothing!!!! If you go back to 20yr old technically maybe, other than that, you are 100% incorrect. Perhaps you are talking about "teflon"? or graphite" ....Out dated! WAY OUT DATED!!!!! Buildup? WHen, how and why??? I CALL BS!!!!! SHOW YOUR FACT!!!! Actually I know what can't mix...but no build-up as you said oh and "ash", so please enlighten me!
Now for the B.S....Look at my post, I never put words in your mouth, you did that all on your own, never said it would "fix" a "loose" engine..read again. Oh but "Dino" oil will??? Listen to what you are saying, you show a bit of adolescence.. Just full of it...
Now for the kicker... "Regardless of your "in house testing" (which I would love to see what lab testing protocol you used on that one!)
I feel obligated to elaborate! We set criteria, within this criteria, we planned a particular amount of frailer. We also used theorems derived from the engineering realm of the aeronautical industry.
Now the "protocol" oh boy....Never realized I had one until now, but I will be honest... This set of events was terrible, I consumed a large amount of malted hops, and watched a HUGE amount of money be destroyed! Then did it OVER AN OVER..along with a few other comrades...Notes were taken, and thus the results...
Oh I forgot to mention, the results, along with oil (texas tea) were sent to ... Oh...look out MOBIL...oh gosh, and are they just they just at the end of my street...YEP!!!!!
So now...what is the story....
GUYS HERE IS THE STORY>>>>>>>> Take a look, there is an individual/company that has posted twice, but only on my thread? only about oil? I'm extremely new to this forum, or any for that matter, and having a funny problem!! READ BETWEEN THE LINES...
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#9
08-07-2004, 02:00 PM
RE: Motor Oil
I am with you Mopartodd. Just for the record I do use Mobil1 and yes I have noticed a difference using it. (engine runs cooler, etc) but reallly do I care to analize the properties of conventional vs synthetic. NO!! It is just a personal preference of mine. The bottom line is that if you change your oil and filter regularly( every 3000 miles for conventional every 5000 for synthetic) your vehicle will last well over 200,000 miles provided you take care of it and do all the recommended preventative maintenance.
#10
08-07-2004, 06:20 PM
RE: Motor Oil
www.bobistheoilguy.com is where you want to go.
I've seen hundres of used oil analysis reports. Changine dino oil at 3k miles will get you long engine life.
Polyalphaolefins with esters, which is what Moibl 1/Amsoil/Reldine are, will hold up better under gruelling racing conditions and extended drains. Mobil 1 is factory fill in Dodge Vipers, Aston Martons, Mercedez Benz, Corvette and others. In Europe, all they run is primarily synthetics. The average oil change interval in Europe is 10,000 miles. Flash points are higher, High Temperature/High Shear properties are better and the Total Base Numbers are higher for longer drains. Redline and Motul are unique in that they contain a larger % of polyolester basestock in their formulations. This makes these oils more suited for racing as they maintain their viscosities extremely well. I can tell you from being a member at bobistheoilguy.com, that any good synthetic can go 10k miles in a will maintained engine. If your using regular oil follow your owners manual. I've found 3-5k miles is good for regular petroleum based oil.
I've seen hundres of used oil analysis reports. Changine dino oil at 3k miles will get you long engine life.
Polyalphaolefins with esters, which is what Moibl 1/Amsoil/Reldine are, will hold up better under gruelling racing conditions and extended drains. Mobil 1 is factory fill in Dodge Vipers, Aston Martons, Mercedez Benz, Corvette and others. In Europe, all they run is primarily synthetics. The average oil change interval in Europe is 10,000 miles. Flash points are higher, High Temperature/High Shear properties are better and the Total Base Numbers are higher for longer drains. Redline and Motul are unique in that they contain a larger % of polyolester basestock in their formulations. This makes these oils more suited for racing as they maintain their viscosities extremely well. I can tell you from being a member at bobistheoilguy.com, that any good synthetic can go 10k miles in a will maintained engine. If your using regular oil follow your owners manual. I've found 3-5k miles is good for regular petroleum based oil.