<FONT size=1>Hi guy's, i'm sorry i haven't been active lately but I've been very busy.I'm sorry if this is the wrong place to put this topic but i've been reading your topics and replies and you guys (and girls<IMG src=smileys/smiley2.gif border="0">) really seem to know what your talking about. </FONT></P>


<FONT size=1>anyway, I have a '91 Stealth ES, bone stock. People say that it would not be possible to build my car to run thirteens in the 1/4. I was wondering if you all could please tell me otherwise. I can't put a new engine in my car or anything like that but how much HP would some cams give me(DOHC 24V) and i'm also debating whether to run nitrous of buy a supercharger for it(wouldn't be any time soon but a possibility). The nos i would run would be dry and no more than a 175hp shot. If you all think that this is remotely possible then please let me know. When ever i get a pic of the car i'll be sure to post it. </FONT></P>


<FONT size=1>Thanx</FONT></P><edited><editID>Racer2005</editID><editDate>37979.8487384259</editDate></edited>

 

Well, you've already got a good start with it being the ES. The 3.0L DOHC in the ES are 222hp, not a bad starting point. The only drawback to the 222 hp is the cars weight(3,300-3,400LBS), my Roadrunner is only 350-450LBS heavier. Superchargers are nice , but turbos usually provide bigger gains and since the R/T's had twin turbos as an option parts are readily available. You can get into the 13's without power adders. Your usual mods should be sufficient. Free up the exhaust with headers, a good high flow mandrel bent exhaust, if you can run true dual exhaust and free flow catalytic converters. Cold air induction, intake manifold, larger injectors, upgraded computer, and cams are also good. If you can, get the heads ported and polished and larger valves with stiffer springs. If you want to go with nitrous, use as little as is needed to reduce wear from the shock the nitrous has on an engine. Some people say theres nothing wrong with using nitrous, which is true if it's used in moderation. Too many people want easy power and bolt up a nitrous kit that doubles their power and are left wondering why there are holes in their hood and pistons in space. <img border="0" src=smileys/smiley36.gif border="0"> Also on the nitrous note, I was at the track when someone that just made a pass was waiting to get his time slip and shut the car off to get it, but when he started the car back up there was still a little nitrous in the intake and the intake exploded sending the shrapnel through the hood and into one of the officials chest. Luckily enough the official only suffered burns as the shrapnel lost most of it's velocity going through the hood, so trust me less is more with nitrous.

If a normally aspirated Neon can turn 10's and 11's, then I'm sure your Stealth can turn 13's.

 

hey thanx for the good news. i needed to here something possitive about buying this car. However, i looked at the specs on this car and it suposedly weighs in at 2650lbs. It says that on my door anyway but i don't know the truth of it really. Where do you think i could get these parts at. Not many sites sell stealth mods and i really don't want to buy from a dealership. Thank you though the advice is very helpful and i will defenitly follow it for a start. <IMG src=smileys/smiley20.gif border="0"></P>

 

Here's a few places to check out:
http://www.extrememotorsports.com/index.htm
http://www.daveblack.net/asp/3SiFAQ.asp
http://www.speedfactor.net/upgrades.htm
This one is just info on the cars:http://www.gate.net/~dhaupert/3000faq.html<edited><editID>71ROADRUNNER</editID><editDate>37981.2328356481</editDate></edited>

 

<FONT color=#330099>I am not sure why I am even posting to this topic but I just wanted to tell you something we found out about nos!! I don't know anything about what you are wanting more power for but if you are going to run at a track and not a straight away then you don't want the nos system. They won't even let guys run at the track here if there is even a hook up in the car?? I am not sure if all tracks are the same but just an FYI in case!! </FONT></P>


<FONT color=#330099>Also, I know that quick power (like that which comes from nos)is hard to say noto but a sleeperat the track is always so much more exciting than ones that you know what they have under the hood because of all the stickers plastered all over the car!! But that is just my opinion!! </FONT></P>

 

You are correct. Judging by his first comment about it, he is talking straight line 1/4 mile drag. Stickers=ricer, except on a race or sponsored car. <img border="0" src=smileys/smiley36.gif border="0">

 

yes i was talking about a 1/4 mile and i'm sorry that i didn't clarify that at first. And just out of curiosity<IMG src=smileys/smiley5.gif border="0">, is my car considered a rice burner (stock &amp; no stickers). and is a 1997 dodge neon (2.0 DOHC, w/muffler, APC sticker, shift ****, painted wipers, and euro tail lights) considered a ricer as well? A friend wants to know.thanx <edited><editID>Racer2005</editID><editDate>37993.388912037</editDate></edited>

 

Hi guys, I'm new to the forum. Nice forum though I am the owner of Speed Factor, a 3000GT/Stealth specialty shop. I think maybe I can shed some light on this topic and help you out </P>


1st, there's only 2 ways you are going to get your NA stealth into the 13's. 1. NOS and a s**tload of bolt ons. 2. Add some type of forced induction (Turbos or SC) </P>


To do the 1st, you will need almost every bolt on available. We have some very good staged upgrades on our website that you may want to take a peak at, but I will try to give you a good place to start at here.</P>


1st thing you need to do is open up both ends of the car. Intake and full exhaust. I only sell and recommend K&amp;N intakes, but you can get cheaper ones on ebay. I am just a firm believer in you get what you pay for, and if those other intakes were JUST LIKE K&amp;N's as they say they are, they WOULD INDEED be charging K&amp;N money for them. But just my .02 cents As for the exhaust, go with a 2 1/2" mandrel bent DP, get rid of the cat with a 2 1/2 testpipe and then get a 2 1/2" mandrel cat-back. There aren't any headers available for the 3/S NA's, so you can scratch that one, plus you dont really need them. The stealth was made with VERY efficent manifolds and heads. One of the few places mitsu didn't cut corners on. But anyway. After you let the car breathe, you can add an underdrive pulley and a little more fuel. We recommend going with a set of 360cc VR4 injectors and an Apexi S-AFC, as well as a walbro 255lph fuel pump. You will need to get a resistor to run the injectors, but you can get one new for $63 or grab one from someone selling one from a VR4. Next thing you will want to do is upgrade your clutch and get a fidanza Alum. flywheel. The fidanza alum. FW is probably one of the best mods you can do to your NA stealth. Another thing we STRONGLY recommend you do, and if possible, do it when you do the clutch and FW, is aQuaife LSD. The 3/S FWD trannys aren't that bad, however, the open end stock differential sucks. They are KNOWN for the pin coming loss and sending your diff threw your bell housing. The Quaife LSD is a closed limited slip differential. It will help you will tractions, as it gives an equal 50/50 power distribution to both front wheels, versus only one wheel getting all the power with your stock diff. So, the LSD definitely will help you will traction, plus it eliminates the headache of worrying about your tranny blowing. Plus, the quaife LSD has a LIFETIME warranty, EVEN if you race. The only down side to the LSD is, if you have a 91 oe 92 3/S, you will have to change to 93+ 3/S FWD axles and intermediate shaft, but you can pick them up for pretty cheap or new ones from autozone for like $80 each. You also want to make sure your car is technically sound before making more power. The 3/S cars are pretty good cars, but there are a few things you need to be on point with. 1. Do your timing belt, tensioner, the 2 pulleys and water pump EVERY 60000 miles, LIKE ITS CLOCKWORK!!!!!!! Other than that, you should always do the oil pump every other 60k service. You may want to upgrade to some aftermarket wires too. As for plugs, stay with the OEM mitsubish NGK plats. (You can get all your parts for your car from mitsu, since they basiclly made the car. Also, we sell all OEM mitsu parts at 25% off, and I will soon be doing the same for all chrystler and dodge parts too) You can add an upgraded ignition system, such as an HKS DLI or a MSD DIS 4. That will get your car into the mid to low 14's depending on how well you can drive, plus,they are heavy (3250lbs. - 3350lbs. is the weight on a stock NA stealth) After that, add the juice. You have upgraded fuel so you will be safe to run AT MOST a 100 shot of dry NOS. A 50-75 shot will probably be better on the longevity of the motor, but you can safely run a 100 shot. I did many of times hehehe To date, the NA FWD 3/S record with a 100 shot of NOS 13.6 I think the all motor, no NOS NA FWD 3/S record is 14.1</P>


Now, if you really want to make power, then you need to do a Twin turbo conversion. We have a 91 Stealth ES that we did a full VR4 TT motor swap conversion with. Our used to be 222 crank hp ES, now puts down over 500 HP to the front wheels. There are 2 ways you can do that conversion though. 1 is by doing a full TT motor, wiring harness and ECU conversion, and the other is by adding turbos to you 10:1 compression NA motor. Obviously you will have more power ptential with the TT motor swap, but it is definitely more costly as well. If you would ever become interested in that type of thing, give me a call. I'd be more than happy to talk to you about your options there </P>


Well, I've wrote a mini novel already, so I guess I'll take off for now. If you ever need any help with your stealth, feel free to check out our website, shoot me an email or give me a call at the shop. All my shop info is in my sig.</P>


</P>


Good luck and enjoy the stealth!!!!!!!!</P>


Ty</P>


Speed Factor</P>

 

Ricers are all show and no, or at least very little, go. If you were to get a really big muffler/exhaust tip, big wheels, lowered, body kit/ground effects, huge wing, lots of lights(hood,neons,etc.), and more stickers with only one or two actual performance modifications, then yes. My R/T is all go, little to no show, so far. <img border="0" src=smileys/smiley2.gif border="0">

 

<FONT color=#333399>I could not have said it better myself!!! <IMG src=smileys/smiley32.gif border="0"></FONT></P>


<FONT color=#333399>So...I got the credit card statement today and my husband has spent well over $2500 this month on a $30,000 car that doesn't even have it's plates yet????????? Is there something that says when a guy turns 30 he needs to get a fast car and fix it up to race??????? </FONT></P>


<FONT color=#333399>Although....I have to admit it's been fun for me as well!! <IMG src=smileys/smiley20.gif border="0"></FONT></P>