Start-up noise - 3.0 R/T Coupe - Valves?
#1
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It is great to see this forum - I have not seen much else out there on Strat coupes!
I am pushing 98K on my 2004 R/T.
For past year plus, there has been a harsh, or sharp, rattling/ticking sound when I start the car. It started around 70-75K. Sound primarily occurs in cold weather, especially when not in the garage. However, it has occurred on occassion when car was sheltered or in warmer months.
It has gotten progressively louder. However, it always goes away about 30 seconds after engine starts running. It sounds a lot like noisy fuel injectors I had in my old '91 3.0 Daytona ES.
My mechanic insists it is in the valves and that Dodge valvetrains are notoriously noisy.
The car has been maintained well. I change the oil myself and put in Quaker State or Valvoline. I had it tuned up last month and they put in all new plugs, Taylor wires and a new distributor. Before that (Sept 08), because there was a TSB out from Dodge on a firing problem with #1 cylinder, I had my Dodge dealer remap the computer - they said it would make the noise go away but it would come back if I did not replace the wires and distributor. Did all that and the noise is still there.
I had my mechanic re-look at the problem. He listened with a stethoscope and insisted it is in the valves. He did adjust a belt which he said was contributing. Note the timing belt was replaced at about 60K.
Does anyone have any ideas? The car otherwise runs great and has no problem accelerating. I thought maybe it was a cracked manifold, or a broken exhaust heat shield, but they looked at that and could find no problems. The engine noise does seem louder than it used to, but there is no obvious noise other than at start-up.
Thanks - I want to go another 100K if possible...
I am pushing 98K on my 2004 R/T.
For past year plus, there has been a harsh, or sharp, rattling/ticking sound when I start the car. It started around 70-75K. Sound primarily occurs in cold weather, especially when not in the garage. However, it has occurred on occassion when car was sheltered or in warmer months.
It has gotten progressively louder. However, it always goes away about 30 seconds after engine starts running. It sounds a lot like noisy fuel injectors I had in my old '91 3.0 Daytona ES.
My mechanic insists it is in the valves and that Dodge valvetrains are notoriously noisy.
The car has been maintained well. I change the oil myself and put in Quaker State or Valvoline. I had it tuned up last month and they put in all new plugs, Taylor wires and a new distributor. Before that (Sept 08), because there was a TSB out from Dodge on a firing problem with #1 cylinder, I had my Dodge dealer remap the computer - they said it would make the noise go away but it would come back if I did not replace the wires and distributor. Did all that and the noise is still there.
I had my mechanic re-look at the problem. He listened with a stethoscope and insisted it is in the valves. He did adjust a belt which he said was contributing. Note the timing belt was replaced at about 60K.
Does anyone have any ideas? The car otherwise runs great and has no problem accelerating. I thought maybe it was a cracked manifold, or a broken exhaust heat shield, but they looked at that and could find no problems. The engine noise does seem louder than it used to, but there is no obvious noise other than at start-up.
Thanks - I want to go another 100K if possible...
#2
#4
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Thanks - Those sound like good ideas. I can certainly try the flush asap and a different oil.
Does it sound wierd that the noise goes away 30 sec after start, or is that a function of the engine warming up?
I cannot tell what side it comes from. But, it is clearly audible even to someone standing well away when the car starts.
If oil is not getting up there to the valves in the amount needed, how much damage could be done?
Also, how long do the exhausts and struts/shocks usually last on these cars? I suppose I should be thinking about replacing them at 100K.
Does it sound wierd that the noise goes away 30 sec after start, or is that a function of the engine warming up?
I cannot tell what side it comes from. But, it is clearly audible even to someone standing well away when the car starts.
If oil is not getting up there to the valves in the amount needed, how much damage could be done?
Also, how long do the exhausts and struts/shocks usually last on these cars? I suppose I should be thinking about replacing them at 100K.
#5
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the valve lifters need "x" amount of oil to work properly as there is not enough they don't lift properly thus the noise ...
Many times the flush is enough to open up the passages and minimize noise at start up and approve amount of oil delivered to the head ...
With the emmision controls set by government the exhausts are stainless steel and really last well , I looked at a car with 300k on it and the exhaust was solid ...
Your struts are likely gone at 100k
Many times the flush is enough to open up the passages and minimize noise at start up and approve amount of oil delivered to the head ...
With the emmision controls set by government the exhausts are stainless steel and really last well , I looked at a car with 300k on it and the exhaust was solid ...
Your struts are likely gone at 100k
#6
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Be careful what you use to do an engine flush. If there is sludge, you don't want a piece getting lodged in 1 of those passages. I would suggest Auto-rx, but the flush will take time. Auto-rx has a 2500 mile clean phase and 3000 mile rinse phase and my tick was gone after 500 miles into the clean phase.
#7
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#8
#9
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You're not searching google hard enough... there is a forum loaded with information dedicated solely to your car.
Your lash adjusters are noisy. Its very common, and is not an issue at all. These engines are pretty reliable, just keep doing your oil changes and get you timing belt, tensioner, and water pump done and you are golden. I saw a picture of an odometer that read over 268,000 miles.
Your lash adjusters are noisy. Its very common, and is not an issue at all. These engines are pretty reliable, just keep doing your oil changes and get you timing belt, tensioner, and water pump done and you are golden. I saw a picture of an odometer that read over 268,000 miles.
Last edited by pearl01stratcpe; 01-16-2009 at 09:33 PM.
#10