I've got a '98 Stratus 2.5L V6. Earlier this summer, the car started to make some nasty light grinding / squealing noise that would go away entirely with the A/C on. Eventually the noise remained present even with the A/C on. During the hottest week of summer (of course) the A/C stopped blowing cold air, almost instantly.

What I know:
The system is fully charged (verified with AC charger gauge on the high side service port). If it was a leak, I wouldn't think the A/C would turn off like a switch like it did?
Checking the AC system after first engine start up of the day (system at ambient temps so the AC should go full blast and not cycle), and try to turn the air on max, I can see the clutch engaging then disengaging repeatedly (and that ain't right...).
My gut instinct is the noise was related to the A/C clutch on its way out (bearing or similar), and the damage progressed until the clutch no longer functions and is seized, causing the cyclic engage/disengaging of the clutch, or perhaps the lovely grinding vibration was actually the compressor bearing and eventually took out the compressor itself. Regardless, the clutch is not serviceable.

What next?
Is there something electrical I can troubleshoot? The awesome Hayne's manual doesn't give much trouble shooting on this topic.
Has anyone tried tried to release the tension on the belt and spin the compressor by hand? Check for grinding / sticking friction (I assume the clutch is naturally disengaged).

Repair difficulty? Tips / Tricks?
If all above checks out as normal (or clutch is grinding when free spinning), how hard is this repair? The compressor looks readily accessible from below....

What if I do nothing?
I haven't been driving the car since the AC went out, for fear if it is the clutch, that if it does really seize up, that it will take out my accessory drive belt and leave me stranded. Am I paranoid or right not to be driving it?

 

From what you are typing, I would you have a leak. Because if the clutch is cylcing real fast, that means you are low on freon. If the compressor seize, it could cause the engine not to turn over.

 

Mastertech is right, you are most likely low on Freon, but the Grinding/squealing noise, not so sure. Need to hear it. Any Metal shaving by A/C comrpessor clutch?

You can spin the compressor by hand with the belt ON, When the Clutch is not engaged, The compressor shaft is free from the belt.

If you don't need the A/C, and compressor is indeed shot, maybe you can get a shorter belt and by pass the A/C compressor alltogether. But you'll have to measure the belt length with a string. the last 3 digit of the part # for the belts is usually the total belt length by inch. Just ask the parts guys.

 

Sorry for my ignorance, but just want to be sure i'm doing the right troubleshooting.
The A/C blew cold for over 2 years, then went to nothing within a few minutes - is this a symptom of running out of R134?
When I hooked up a R134 re-charger kit (with gauge), the system showed plenty of pressure on the high side - doesn't this mean it has R134 in it?

I'll check to see if I can spin the compressor by hand later tonight...
Thanks

 

Sometimes, Yes.
it does mean it has freon in it, but it doesn't tell u how much is in it. You can Only measure freon by weight. You have to suck it out and measure it on a scale, or w/ the right A/C equipment.
For example, you are getting Hot water out of the fossip in ur house doesn't mean ur Hot water tank is Full.


If it is Low or Too much freon in it, Compressor Clutch will cycle rapidly.

 

Sounds like step 1 would be to have a dealer drain, flush, and fill my system?

Only question remaining is if running low on freon cause the noise I am hearing?

I think having the system drained, flushed, and filled maybe win-win if it turns out the compressor blew up due to lack of freon and thus contaminating the whole system of metal bits that would break the new compressor if not flushed out. Or so the dealership says I would need to do that anyway...

Would it be wise just to drain it myself and check the weight before bothering to take it to the dealer? Danger level on a scale of 1-10?

Really appreciate all the help!

 

I spun the compressor by hand last night, and it definitely has some grinding/rough feeling like resistance through certain portions of its rotation, both forwards and backwards. Which says to me I need a new compressor... damn, so much for the easy flush and fill fix.

 

I have A 2004 Dodge stratus that the air condition drain in side on the driver side can any body tell me were the drain is so i can unstop it

 

are you sure its a/c draining? ,usually drains on passenger side floor, the drain is located above crossmember on passengerside firewall,raise vehichle with ramps or jack and jack stands,slide under car head first til your head is behind crossmember drain is above/and behind crossmember, i used a piece of garden hose that had male end broken off,some 3/8 outer diameter tubing and some duct tape to flush it out with water.there is also a revised tube(part#05264688 if you wanted to buy from dealer here is the tsb on part hopefully pictures work right
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The front passenger side carpet becomes wet when operating the A/C during hot humid weather.
DIAGNOSIS:
Inspect the front passenger side carpet starting at the bottom of HVAC unit, if it is wet perform the Repair Procedure.





PARTS REQUIRED:
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
1.Use the procedures outlined in TechCONNECT to remove the carpet, 23-Body/Interior/Carpets and Floor Mats/Removal.
2.Hang the carpet so the front portion is at the bottom and let air dry (having a fan blow on it will speed the process).
3.Use a utility knife or similar device to cut the dash panel silencer pad as follows:
a.Cut just below the bottom of the HVAC housing from the side cowl (kick) panel across to the transmission tunnel.
b.Cut along the transmission tunnel from the dash panel rearward and to the end of the pad.
4.Remove the cut portion of the dash panel silencer pad and squeeze any excess water from the pad.
5.Hang the dash panel silencer pad and let it air dry.
6.Wipe up any excess water that may be in the passenger foot well area and dry with a towel.
7.Raise the vehicle on an appropriate hoist.
8.Remove the HVAC drain tube from the dash panel by squeezing and pulling on the tube near the dash panel.






9.Install drain tube adapter, p/n 05191188AA, onto the HVAC drain nipple, (Fig. 1).
10.Install the revised drain tube, p/n 05264688, onto the drain tube adapter so the down tube is positioned at 7 o'clock when looking toward the rear of the vehicle.
11.Seal the opening in the dash panel where the HVAC drain tube passes through with RTV sealer, p/n 82300234.
12.Lower the vehicle.
13.After the section dash panel silencer pad has dried determine if there is any objectionable odor. If no odor is detected reuse the original pad. If there is an objectionable odor, use the original pad cutout as a template to cut replacement pad from p/n 04787422AC.
14.Adhere the dash panel silencer pad to the floor pan with a small amount of RTV sealer, p/n 04467708, and apply duct tape to the cut seam of the dash panel silencer pad.
15.After the carpet has dried determine if there is any objectionable odor. If no odor is detected reuse the original carpet. If there is an objectionable odor, use the appropriate MOPAR parts catalog to determine the correct replacement carpet.
16.Use the procedures outlined in TechCONNECT to install the carpet, 23-Body/Interior/Carpets and Floor Mats/Installation.
POLICY: