Finally got it
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Alabama
Finally got it
I heard a few weeks ago that the normal SRT-4 was being phased out along with the Neon and I absolutely had to get one new before they were gone. My local dealer had a black one (thank god) and I traded in my 98' Neon R/T for a new SRT-4. I got the one with the sunroof and the kicker system (I would have prefered it without the stereo, but whatever).
Now that I've had it for three weeks, I had some questions crop up about it.
--- First, Stuff I don't understand but everyone tells me:
This is my first new car. Everyone tells me that there is a "break in time" before the car will perform to spec and I should wait until then to push the car hard. What's a reasonable break in time for an SRT-4?
--- Second, troubleshooting:
I'm not used to turbos at all, so this is a new thing for me. I can hear the turbo wind up inside the car and I can hear the wastegate letting off some air at high pressure. When I'm at a low RPM, about 1500, and I shift into second (taking turns moving for example) I hear a slight grinding. The turbo gague is at about -4 when this happens and as the RPMs pass 2000 it goes away. Am I hearing the turbo or is something wrong with my tranny or what?
I've been told the grumbling in the exhaust is a result of having no BOV and the turbo going backwards. I was also told that this will wear the bearings out over time. In order to retain my warenty, I was considering having the Mopar BOV installed. Is this a good one or should I consider another brand?
--- Third, Advice:
I'm getting all kinds of bugs on my grill. I've heard that the 3M clear vinyl is a good way to make it easy to get them off. Any suggestions?
Stage 3 Mopar Coilovers: Worth it? Better brand out there?
Thanks!
Doku
Now that I've had it for three weeks, I had some questions crop up about it.
--- First, Stuff I don't understand but everyone tells me:
This is my first new car. Everyone tells me that there is a "break in time" before the car will perform to spec and I should wait until then to push the car hard. What's a reasonable break in time for an SRT-4?
--- Second, troubleshooting:
I'm not used to turbos at all, so this is a new thing for me. I can hear the turbo wind up inside the car and I can hear the wastegate letting off some air at high pressure. When I'm at a low RPM, about 1500, and I shift into second (taking turns moving for example) I hear a slight grinding. The turbo gague is at about -4 when this happens and as the RPMs pass 2000 it goes away. Am I hearing the turbo or is something wrong with my tranny or what?
I've been told the grumbling in the exhaust is a result of having no BOV and the turbo going backwards. I was also told that this will wear the bearings out over time. In order to retain my warenty, I was considering having the Mopar BOV installed. Is this a good one or should I consider another brand?
--- Third, Advice:
I'm getting all kinds of bugs on my grill. I've heard that the 3M clear vinyl is a good way to make it easy to get them off. Any suggestions?
Stage 3 Mopar Coilovers: Worth it? Better brand out there?
Thanks!
Doku
Record Breaker
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,740
Likes: 0
From: Phila, PA
RE: Finally got it
ORIGINAL: dokuja
I heard a few weeks ago that the normal SRT-4 was being phased out along with the Neon and I absolutely had to get one new before they were gone. My local dealer had a black one (thank god) and I traded in my 98' Neon R/T for a new SRT-4. I got the one with the sunroof and the kicker system (I would have prefered it without the stereo, but whatever).
Now that I've had it for three weeks, I had some questions crop up about it.
--- First, Stuff I don't understand but everyone tells me:
This is my first new car. Everyone tells me that there is a "break in time" before the car will perform to spec and I should wait until then to push the car hard. What's a reasonable break in time for an SRT-4?
-About 500 miles And read the manual - RE: this. It has pretty detailed instructions and they are pretty spot on. You can even hit it full throttle at times.
--- Second, troubleshooting:
I'm not used to turbos at all, so this is a new thing for me. I can hear the turbo wind up inside the car and I can hear the wastegate letting off some air at high pressure. When I'm at a low RPM, about 1500, and I shift into second (taking turns moving for example) I hear a slight grinding. The turbo gague is at about -4 when this happens and as the RPMs pass 2000 it goes away. Am I hearing the turbo or is something wrong with my tranny or what?
-it is your tranny - it has straight cut gears, and is very noisy, - but very strong, because of this..
I've been told the grumbling in the exhaust is a result of having no BOV and the turbo going backwards. I was also told that this will wear the bearings out over time. In order to retain my warenty, I was considering having the Mopar BOV installed. Is this a good one or should I consider another brand?
bov has nothing to do with it. It is a sound programmed into the car to make it mean(grrr...) The car is supposed to pop and burble on decel especially. If you do a stage up[grade it will get much louder. Also, the lack of a muffler contributes to this. --- Third, Advice:
I'm getting all kinds of bugs on my grill. I've heard that the 3M clear vinyl is a good way to make it easy to get them off. Any suggestions?
Sounds like you are talking about your bumper.
Clear vinyl is okay, but I am not into it. I wax the car frequently to keep it slick and easy to clean. You could get a bra for long trips.
Stage 3 Mopar Coilovers: Worth it? Better brand out there?
From everyone I speak to that has them - Yes, Yes, and Yes. I know I'll be getting them soon.
IPP may be an option for a little less, and Tein is a great company.
Thanks!
Doku
I heard a few weeks ago that the normal SRT-4 was being phased out along with the Neon and I absolutely had to get one new before they were gone. My local dealer had a black one (thank god) and I traded in my 98' Neon R/T for a new SRT-4. I got the one with the sunroof and the kicker system (I would have prefered it without the stereo, but whatever).
Now that I've had it for three weeks, I had some questions crop up about it.
--- First, Stuff I don't understand but everyone tells me:
This is my first new car. Everyone tells me that there is a "break in time" before the car will perform to spec and I should wait until then to push the car hard. What's a reasonable break in time for an SRT-4?
-About 500 miles And read the manual - RE: this. It has pretty detailed instructions and they are pretty spot on. You can even hit it full throttle at times.
--- Second, troubleshooting:
I'm not used to turbos at all, so this is a new thing for me. I can hear the turbo wind up inside the car and I can hear the wastegate letting off some air at high pressure. When I'm at a low RPM, about 1500, and I shift into second (taking turns moving for example) I hear a slight grinding. The turbo gague is at about -4 when this happens and as the RPMs pass 2000 it goes away. Am I hearing the turbo or is something wrong with my tranny or what?
-it is your tranny - it has straight cut gears, and is very noisy, - but very strong, because of this..
I've been told the grumbling in the exhaust is a result of having no BOV and the turbo going backwards. I was also told that this will wear the bearings out over time. In order to retain my warenty, I was considering having the Mopar BOV installed. Is this a good one or should I consider another brand?
bov has nothing to do with it. It is a sound programmed into the car to make it mean(grrr...) The car is supposed to pop and burble on decel especially. If you do a stage up[grade it will get much louder. Also, the lack of a muffler contributes to this. --- Third, Advice:
I'm getting all kinds of bugs on my grill. I've heard that the 3M clear vinyl is a good way to make it easy to get them off. Any suggestions?
Sounds like you are talking about your bumper.
Clear vinyl is okay, but I am not into it. I wax the car frequently to keep it slick and easy to clean. You could get a bra for long trips.
Stage 3 Mopar Coilovers: Worth it? Better brand out there?
From everyone I speak to that has them - Yes, Yes, and Yes. I know I'll be getting them soon.
IPP may be an option for a little less, and Tein is a great company.
Thanks!
Doku
Enjoy the car, man.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Alabama
RE: Finally got it
-About 500 miles And read the manual - RE: this. It has pretty detailed instructions and they are pretty spot on. You can even hit it full throttle at times.
-it is your tranny - it has straight cut gears, and is very noisy, - but very strong, because of this..
bov has nothing to do with it. It is a sound programmed into the car to make it mean(grrr...) The car is supposed to pop and burble on decel especially. If you do a stage up[grade it will get much louder. Also, the lack of a muffler contributes to this.
Sounds like you are talking about your bumper.
Clear vinyl is okay, but I am not into it. I wax the car frequently to keep it slick and easy to clean. You could get a bra for long trips.
Clear vinyl is okay, but I am not into it. I wax the car frequently to keep it slick and easy to clean. You could get a bra for long trips.
From everyone I speak to that has them - Yes, Yes, and Yes. I know I'll be getting them soon.
IPP may be an option for a little less, and Tein is a great company.
IPP may be an option for a little less, and Tein is a great company.
Three other quick questions while I got someone who knows:
1. I can't seem to park as well as I could in my Neon R/T. I just can't get it lined up in time before I'm getting too close to the curb with the front end. I'm thinking it's because I went from 14" to 17" rims and I can't turn as fast with larger rims. In the R/T I could turn around in a two lane 4 way with no problems, not so in the SRT-4. I have also heard that 16"s will produce more torque with a penalty of top speed. Would I be doing myself a favor by getting some lightweight 16"s if I plan on only street driving/racing it?
2. Synthetic or regular? When? Why? :P
3. Why did the curb saver plastic piece that goes under the bumper end up in the trunk? Were they supposed to install that???
Record Breaker
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,740
Likes: 0
From: Phila, PA
RE: Finally got it
ORIGINAL: dokuja
That short? I've already put 2100 on it! Took a trip in it. I told all my friends that it gets one oil change before I drive it pretty hard. - Yep - It will keep getting stronger until 5000 miles, though, built in safety net with these computers.
Ahh ok. Great.
You are kidding me. That's in the ECU??? Wow. Should I get a BOV or not? Will it save my turbo like the guy said? I can't imagine them making a car that destroys it's own turbo.
The bov isn't necessary, but I like my mopar blue plate. - Note of caution, some people have problems after installing it, with boost leaks - so be careful putting it in if you do. I have never had an issue though and I hold 18 psi to redline no problem. Plus the woosh noise is fun, too
Everyone at the office drives a sports car, and some pro cleaner guy comes by every 2 week to do their cars for around $100. I guess I'll just have that guy wax mine up too.
- they wanna' stop by my office, too? I just got back from driving 160 miles yesterday and there is crap all over the bumper.
From everyone I speak to that has them - Yes, Yes, and Yes. I know I'll be getting them soon.
IPP may be an option for a little less, and Tein is a great company.
OK, I was going to get those anyway.
Three other quick questions while I got someone who knows:
1. I can't seem to park as well as I could in my Neon R/T. I just can't get it lined up in time before I'm getting too close to the curb with the front end. I'm thinking it's because I went from 14" to 17" rims and I can't turn as fast with larger rims. In the R/T I could turn around in a two lane 4 way with no problems, not so in the SRT-4. I have also heard that 16"s will produce more torque with a penalty of top speed. Would I be doing myself a favor by getting some lightweight 16"s if I plan on only street driving/racing it?
We are screwed in that dept. Part of having this great big tough noisy tranny is that there is no room for wheels to turn. I still feel like a moron sometimes when I have to re-park. U-turns, forget it. 16"won't help with this. I would do a set of lightweight wheels - I just threw on some traklites for an 8 lb savings per wheel. That ought to net you some performance and look good too. 16's might be even lighter, but you need to keep the tire diameter the same, so no torque difference, unless you go lower profile, too, and then you have speedo issues and won't feel as good on the highway. If anything do what most do and get a set of 17x7-8 wheels when you are ready so you can go wider than 205. the problem with the stock wheel is that it is a 6".
2. Synthetic or regular? When? Why? :P
Synthetic. Only. - the standard oil can coke in the oil lines for the turbo - that thing gets REAL hot. Try running it hard and look under the hood at night, after. You will see one glowing red example of why synthetic.
3. Why did the curb saver plastic piece that goes under the bumper end up in the trunk? Were they supposed to install that???
yes., dealers suck - they were supposed to put it on - screw it on there - it will also act as an air diffuser.
-About 500 miles And read the manual - RE: this. It has pretty detailed instructions and they are pretty spot on. You can even hit it full throttle at times.
-it is your tranny - it has straight cut gears, and is very noisy, - but very strong, because of this..
bov has nothing to do with it. It is a sound programmed into the car to make it mean(grrr...) The car is supposed to pop and burble on decel especially. If you do a stage up[grade it will get much louder. Also, the lack of a muffler contributes to this.
The bov isn't necessary, but I like my mopar blue plate. - Note of caution, some people have problems after installing it, with boost leaks - so be careful putting it in if you do. I have never had an issue though and I hold 18 psi to redline no problem. Plus the woosh noise is fun, too
Sounds like you are talking about your bumper.
Clear vinyl is okay, but I am not into it. I wax the car frequently to keep it slick and easy to clean. You could get a bra for long trips.
Clear vinyl is okay, but I am not into it. I wax the car frequently to keep it slick and easy to clean. You could get a bra for long trips.
- they wanna' stop by my office, too?
I just got back from driving 160 miles yesterday and there is crap all over the bumper.From everyone I speak to that has them - Yes, Yes, and Yes. I know I'll be getting them soon.
IPP may be an option for a little less, and Tein is a great company.
Three other quick questions while I got someone who knows:
1. I can't seem to park as well as I could in my Neon R/T. I just can't get it lined up in time before I'm getting too close to the curb with the front end. I'm thinking it's because I went from 14" to 17" rims and I can't turn as fast with larger rims. In the R/T I could turn around in a two lane 4 way with no problems, not so in the SRT-4. I have also heard that 16"s will produce more torque with a penalty of top speed. Would I be doing myself a favor by getting some lightweight 16"s if I plan on only street driving/racing it?
We are screwed in that dept. Part of having this great big tough noisy tranny is that there is no room for wheels to turn. I still feel like a moron sometimes when I have to re-park. U-turns, forget it. 16"won't help with this. I would do a set of lightweight wheels - I just threw on some traklites for an 8 lb savings per wheel. That ought to net you some performance and look good too. 16's might be even lighter, but you need to keep the tire diameter the same, so no torque difference, unless you go lower profile, too, and then you have speedo issues and won't feel as good on the highway. If anything do what most do and get a set of 17x7-8 wheels when you are ready so you can go wider than 205. the problem with the stock wheel is that it is a 6".
2. Synthetic or regular? When? Why? :P
Synthetic. Only. - the standard oil can coke in the oil lines for the turbo - that thing gets REAL hot. Try running it hard and look under the hood at night, after. You will see one glowing red example of why synthetic.
3. Why did the curb saver plastic piece that goes under the bumper end up in the trunk? Were they supposed to install that???
yes., dealers suck - they were supposed to put it on - screw it on there - it will also act as an air diffuser.
Record Breaker
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,740
Likes: 0
From: Phila, PA
RE: Finally got it
ORIGINAL: dokuja
Just to be as irritating as possible,
What's the best synthetic out there? I plan on treating my baby right.
Doku
Just to be as irritating as possible,
What's the best synthetic out there? I plan on treating my baby right.
Doku
Mobil 1 is fine
I have used Royal Purple before with outstanding success on other cars (great stuff) and redline is supposed to be good, and some use amsoil, I will probably switch over to R.P. eventuallly, but for now, its good ol' mobil 1 for me.
Rookie
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 56
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From:
RE: Finally got it
Would a 180 degree thermostat help anything out, along with the mobile 1? i would think, cooler coolant = cooler motor = cooler oil = cooler turbo.....flame on please also, I went to the dealer today to pick up my plates, I asked them if any of the Mopar accesories would void the warrenty. Service guy tells me "only the one that goes PSSSSSS will void it". I laughed and said " i guess i will have to go to another dealer". dcx website says mopar parts and accesories will not void limited warrenty if they are installed by a factory trained service tech. Anyone have a problem with accesories and warrenty's with your dealers?
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Record Breaker
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,740
Likes: 0
From: Phila, PA
RE: Finally got it
ORIGINAL: Hi N Mity
Would a 180 degree thermostat help anything out, along with the mobile 1? i would think, cooler coolant = cooler motor = cooler oil = cooler turbo.....flame on please also, I went to the dealer today to pick up my plates, I asked them if any of the Mopar accesories would void the warrenty. Service guy tells me "only the one that goes PSSSSSS will void it". I laughed and said " i guess i will have to go to another dealer". dcx website says mopar parts and accesories will not void limited warrenty if they are installed by a factory trained service tech. Anyone have a problem with accesories and warrenty's with your dealers?
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Would a 180 degree thermostat help anything out, along with the mobile 1? i would think, cooler coolant = cooler motor = cooler oil = cooler turbo.....flame on please also, I went to the dealer today to pick up my plates, I asked them if any of the Mopar accesories would void the warrenty. Service guy tells me "only the one that goes PSSSSSS will void it". I laughed and said " i guess i will have to go to another dealer". dcx website says mopar parts and accesories will not void limited warrenty if they are installed by a factory trained service tech. Anyone have a problem with accesories and warrenty's with your dealers?
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180 deg. thermostat is a good idea(see-no flames). Heck mine is sitting on the counter to my right as we speak, but remember that it is only going to work when you are moving. When stopped you need a fanswitch, as well, to get you there(or a flip of the AC compresor
).Definitely find a mod-friendly dealer, they are hard to find, but definitely worth the trouble - I wouldn't trust most dealers with an oil change.
Legend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 9,543
Likes: 2
From: United States
RE: Finally got it
I too went from an R/T to my SRT-4, mine was a '99 though. I have had previous turbo experience with two 2.2L Turbo II Daytona Shelby Z's, an '87 and an '88.
With over 2,100 miles on it your SRT-4 is good to go and ready for driving however you like.
It's looks like you've been the victim of bad info. First is the need for a BOV. They have one from the factory, but it technically isn't a BOV, it's a purge valve. The purge valve does the same thing as a BOV, it releases the pressure build up in the intake tract when you let off the gas during acceleration, the only difference is that the purge valve vents it back into the intake side of the turbo and the BOV vents it out into the atmosphere. The turbo does not go backwards either, even without a purge valve or BOV they don't. Without a purge valve or BOV they can and will stall, but not reverse direction. The biggest enemy of the turbos bearing is heat and lack of a great oil, this is a major reason for the use of Mobil 1 or another top synthetic. The Mopar BOV is a great piece and I have had mine almost as long as I've had my SRT-4.
As far as the warranty goes, they cannot void your warranty simply based on adding a few mods, they have to prove that your mods were the cause of the failure. This is why I highly recommend taking it to an independent ASE certified mechanic if something happens to get his opinion first before taking it to the dealership, this gives you something to fight back with in the event the dealer is trying to deny you your warranty rights.
With over 2,100 miles on it your SRT-4 is good to go and ready for driving however you like.
It's looks like you've been the victim of bad info. First is the need for a BOV. They have one from the factory, but it technically isn't a BOV, it's a purge valve. The purge valve does the same thing as a BOV, it releases the pressure build up in the intake tract when you let off the gas during acceleration, the only difference is that the purge valve vents it back into the intake side of the turbo and the BOV vents it out into the atmosphere. The turbo does not go backwards either, even without a purge valve or BOV they don't. Without a purge valve or BOV they can and will stall, but not reverse direction. The biggest enemy of the turbos bearing is heat and lack of a great oil, this is a major reason for the use of Mobil 1 or another top synthetic. The Mopar BOV is a great piece and I have had mine almost as long as I've had my SRT-4.
As far as the warranty goes, they cannot void your warranty simply based on adding a few mods, they have to prove that your mods were the cause of the failure. This is why I highly recommend taking it to an independent ASE certified mechanic if something happens to get his opinion first before taking it to the dealership, this gives you something to fight back with in the event the dealer is trying to deny you your warranty rights.
