Okay, here's how to get that code yourself.

First thing, ON is where the ignition key is when all you dash indications (ABS, CEL, battery, all those other red ones) come on, but not so far the car starts.

Off, for our purposes here anyway, is just back far enough that the lights go off, but not so far that you have to hit the button to rotate the key further back.

So, in the car, door closed. Key in, then

ON
OFF
ON
OFF
ON

within a few seconds.

Your odometer display will do one of two things normally, you on the other hand, since you have a lit CEL, WILL get a code. Most likely P0304, #4 misfire. If you did not have any stored codes, it would display DONE.

Refer to the BOV thread, follow the links to Rezin8s tech site. In there are PDFs that will be a great help, just look around.

 

I can"t do it now but now I know. The car is at the dealer now so I will find out tomorrow.

 

Or, if you want to make an impression at your dealer (They ARE a 5 ***** Dealer, I Hope), take what glhs873 said and confront them with it.

 

Sorry, glhs837...got your numbers reversed.....my bad....[:'(]

 

If you liked that one, then your gonna love this one. This is not a joke either, it is 100% for real. This does better than carb & choke cleaner from my experience, for cleaning off the valves and removing deposits. An old clean Windex bottle, or something similar, filled with water.[sm=smiley3.gif][sm=smiley29.gif][sm=smiley34.gif][sm=smiley5.gif] Yes, I said water. With the vehicle running you spray it in the carburator/throttle body just like you would the carb & choke cleaner, you will also have to operate the throttle at the same time to keep it running or it might stall. It basically steam cleans the valves. The carb & choke cleaner is best for cleaning the interior and exterior of the carb/throttle body itself.

I've used this method on many different vehicles including my Roadrunner and it worked great on all, especially my Roadrunner. On it I first used the Gumout carb & choke cleaner until it quit blowing smoke out the tail pipes, the I used the water in a Windex bottle. WOW!!!! It blew out huge amounts of black smoke, it made the car disappear. That was the first time I had ever tried it, I had heard of it before, but never tried it until I read it in Hot Rod magazine as well.[sm=smiley20.gif][sm=smiley4.gif][sm=smiley2.gif]

 

Well the results are in and it's my fault. Too much air from my intake and too small injectors caused them to malfunction. bad news also is now it's number one instead of number 4 so this means that I have 2 bad ones. NOT GOOD. I now have to order the other and replace it. I asked if having stage 2 inj. would do better and he said yes but I don't have the cash for stage 2 right now. This sucks bad. I could have really hurt my car having one bad, now I have two. GRRRRRRR!

The dealer did say that they would get a new one for number one and replace it but this can't go on much longer before they decide that they aren't going to do it.
Kris H.

 

Let me get this straight. They are saying that your AEM shortram made your injector go bad? Am I the only one who thinks this is bull****?
Can anyone explain how this could possibly be? I know they said they will cover it under warranty, but the point remains. This is either

a) A service guy who knows better, but wants to see if you go for this, so in the future anything that goes wrong, he can blame on mods and get you to pay. I think this is unlikely.

b) Either a mechanic or service manager/writer who really has no clue about the mechanics/physics involved.

c) One of the two above who thinks we operate a MAF based system instead of a MAP system, where it does indeed matter how much air is let in the system AFTER the MAF sensor, but we don't have one.

The "size" of the injectors only matters in relation to the amount of fuel that the engine is fed. Too much air, not enough fuel, you run lean and destroy/damage the engine. Too much fuel, not enough air, and you run rich, clouds of black smoke give this away.

In any case, it's impossible for any amount of air less or more, to pyhsically affect the injectors. They open and close, when the computer tells them. And the computer in our cars does this based on air PRESSURE, not air quantity (or mass). do you know what the code was? We have seen codes for the injectors actually turn out to be problems with the wire harness's having bad ground connections.

sorry for the book, but seeing dealers spout immposible stuff ticks me off. !!!!!![:@]

 

Besides the intake, what other mods (if any) do you have on your SRT-4???

 

mopar sts
mopar bov
20 occ
mopar catback
mopar stage 2 co's
AEM shortram intake
Thanks for the info guys. I appreciate it. Like I said before I am not a gear head so they could get one past me. It sounds good to me to tell you the truth. My exhaust tips are black.

I can tell you that both times the sensors came on was right after I started the car and just tapped the gas when the car wasn't warmed up. I am just glad that they are gonna fix it this time. I have heard from other people having the same problems but they just replaced it with new ones from other people. It sucks not having my car this weekend but the last thing I want to do is ruin it. I don't know how much damage could have been caused by the injector going bad and my driving habits being slightly aggresive. Around here I top out at 45mph but I don't know what kind of damage that could cause.

I remember dl'ing that tuner transform where they put larger injectors in from agp. I might look into that but would I now need fuel management? I was hoping to never have this problem but now that it's here I can't ignore it any longer. Thanks for the help guys and I will keep you all posted.
Kris H.

 

[sm=smiley36.gif][sm=smiley36.gif][sm=smiley36.gif][sm=smiley36.gif]That's a good one.[sm=smiley36.gif][sm=smiley36.gif][sm=smiley36.gif]First off this isn't possible, or most everyone would be in the same situation. You have an '04 which means that it already has the Stage 1's injectors, your not gonna be running lean even. The engine cannot pull in any more air than it can handle. That sounds to me like they are trying to pass it off as spark blow out. If this is the case, then a set of MSD Super Conductor wires should solve that problem by giving the plug a whole lot more spark energy, a much bigger and stronger spark that would be far harder to blow out. The shortest factory plug wires (2 & 3) have over 2,000 ohms resistance and the longer ones (1 & 4) have around 3,500 ohms resistance. The MSD plug wires are less than 50 ohms per foot of resistance and not even the longest factory wires (1 & 4) are even a foot long, so the MSD are only around 40 ohms resistance on the long ones and 25 on the short, can we say lots of spark energy.[sm=smiley20.gif]

I'm not exactly sure what is involved to trip that code, does it mean that it was a cylinder misfire or an injector misfire or does it even specify?