Recently dropped a 5.2 in my '95 and I had a question about how to set fuel sync. I know there are plenty of forums on how to do it but I'd like to know how to do it in my case. So I rebuilt my motor and used a harmonic balancer from advance auto. I know when you set fuel sync on the engine you're supposed to have a "V8" marking on the balancer, but mine doesn't have one. Is there any way to go about doing it without bringing it to a shop?

 

To properly set sync, you need a scanner that can read the current value...... and your typical home mechanic code readers just aren't going to get it. Need something like a Snap-On MT2500 or better, or the dealers scan tool. Most any competent shop should be able to set it for you, for less than an hours labor.

That said, there is a procedure in the service manual for installing the distributor..... there used to be a writeup around here somewhere that showed how to do initial setup, can't find it in the 95 Ram manual though... (same engine) but, basically, there is a mark on the distributor housing, (slight depression) and there is supposedly a mark on the block somewhere (or, maybe the back side of the intake??) and you line the rotor, and those two marks up, and it should be at least good enough to start, and drive to get it properly set.

 

OK. I had a very hard time getting a shop to do this. Most of the shops had no idea what I was talking about. The two shops that had snap on MT2500 scanners did not know how to do it. I ended up getting a scanner off ebay and using the manual set mine top +1 because it would not stay stable at 0 the factory spec. I have a link to a more detailed in depth cam shaft distributor method and will describe a quick and dirty method the guy who wrote it up swears was never more than 2 points off when he went back to check with a scanner. Mine was hitting -15 to -6 when I hooked up the scanner! So either I did it wrong or my cam or distributor is messed up :/ I'm voting my motor parts are worn since this guys advice was always dead on right. http://www.bionicdodge.com/Download/...uel%20Sync.pdf
OK quick and dirty method Direct copy of what he posted
put the damper on TDC be sure the rotor is pointing
at the #1 wire for both methods. Now remove the dist
cap you will see a line on the plastic pickup plate and
it says cyl. climb up and look straight down over the
rotor and center the button on the rotor over the cyl
line. and tighten down. I had an accuracy of + - 2 doing
it this way.

I know this because I now use a $2500 scanner to set them.
I checked ones I had set this way after I got the scanner
and that is what I came up with as far as accuracy.

Always rotate the crank clockwise when setting this if
you pass up the marks go around past them once and
than come up on them again.

NEVER turn the crank back to the mark it will be way off
from the play in the cam and dist gear and even with a
new chain there may be some play.

T hey are set at the factory anywhere from -6 to 0 but
they run better on the plus side. Ideally you want your
injectors to pulse right after the valve starts to open (IDK if I would do this unless I did not care about MPG's)
which is 8 after, 0 is 14 after so they would pulse
after they have been open for 6 degree's a +6
would be right when the valves start to open.

I found most run best around +2 to +6 but no 2 trucks
will be the same. If you go past +6 you will get a mill
light in most cases.

You should always reset injector sync after you
replace a timing chain or add a tensioner.

To reset the computer just disconnect the Neg. battery
cable go in the truck and turn the key like you are
going to start it and hold it there for about 20 to 30
seconds. It will drain all the voltage out of the capacitors
and lose its learned settings and it will than relearn
everything for any changes you have made.

about 50miles for a short term 200 to 500 for long term
relearn than it will run nice. some times they run nasty
right after you do a reset depending on what mods
you have done.

Larry
J&J Auto

 

Thanks for that posting, something I didn't know anything about.

Steve

 

Steve if you go with the MT2500 off ebay here is a link http://buy1.snapon.com/products/diag...ge_chooser.asp
It lists the cartridges that are available

 

Here is a pic...

 

THIS! Nice Thank You
BTW the tighten down reference is to the nut that holds the Distributor in place. You'd be rotating the dist a tiny bit to get the alignment not the rotor ****.

 

great info!! And yes, the Haynes and Chilton manuals are ridiculous compared to FSM's. They're ok for doing simple things but otherwise save your money.

Steve

 

About to lose my mind over this truck. 98 dodge 5.2 1500. Got the wrong bulb for dome light got dad to run to the store exhange for right one was gave a 60 amp glass fuse me not paying attention put it in and it blew than started running poorly. Been working on it for a couple months. had it going at first but was running very rich started with fuel pump, all sensors, harness re loomed, taped, ect plug replaced, traced grounds and fixed (one under battery previous owners had the battery blow-up was completely corroded cleaned and new terminal), 2nd break down plenum, timing chain and sprockets, 140 alt fuse, was going hei distrubitor but won't clear keg took off replaced with basic, msd ign coil, 8.2 plugs, water pump, oil pump and screen, harmonic balancer bought from O'Reilly different than original do I put on the middle 10? And is that the way it goes? It's at first compression stroke. Dont Have timing light. Was reading way fuel sync can be done with out tuner or scannerd. Needing helpful leads if anyone has anything it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Download the service manual for your truck from here. Setting initial fuel sync is covered in the Distributor R&R section.

Moving this to 2nd Gen Ram section for ya.