1997 Dodge Intrepid Engine Cradle/Suspension Crossmember Bushings Falling Out
#1
1997 Dodge Intrepid Engine Cradle/Suspension Crossmember Bushings Falling Out
Took 1997 Dodge Intrepid 3.5L in to mechanic to have it checked for heavy clunk / thump from front suspension area and found that it needed:
All upper and lower bushings on crossmember replaced - $350 Labor $450 Parts
Lower Ball joints..arms worn - lower control arm replaced - $275 Labor $320 Parts
Left front bearing assembly (loose) replaced - $80 Labor $140 Parts
Steering rack bushings (left) replaced - $450 Labor $100 Parts
Total ~$2200
I think the most pressing issue is the crossmember bushings.
I am not going to have the mechanic fix these as the car is not worth half that, but I was wondering if these could be done by someone who is somewhat mechanically inclined (I have done simple jobs like replaces fuel pump, fix inner tie rod bushing). Otherwise, I guess I will be looking for another car.
Any hints/help on how to fix this?
Thanks,
Matt
All upper and lower bushings on crossmember replaced - $350 Labor $450 Parts
Lower Ball joints..arms worn - lower control arm replaced - $275 Labor $320 Parts
Left front bearing assembly (loose) replaced - $80 Labor $140 Parts
Steering rack bushings (left) replaced - $450 Labor $100 Parts
Total ~$2200
I think the most pressing issue is the crossmember bushings.
I am not going to have the mechanic fix these as the car is not worth half that, but I was wondering if these could be done by someone who is somewhat mechanically inclined (I have done simple jobs like replaces fuel pump, fix inner tie rod bushing). Otherwise, I guess I will be looking for another car.
Any hints/help on how to fix this?
Thanks,
Matt
#4
I have done this, it is fairly easy. the bushings are two pieces, they slide together, one on top and one on bottom. the only trouble I had, was one of the nuts spun inside the frame. I had to cut an access hole to get a wrench on it, then welded closed. These are dealer items, around $90.00 a piece.
#5
I've seen them sold on ebay. They were listed as subframe bushings. If I remember right....they were an improvement over the factory ones. And yes, the things you need to replace are pretty easy on this car. Thats one of the many things I like about this car.
Last edited by ralphael101; 04-17-2010 at 12:03 PM. Reason: adding more info about ebay item
#7
Just make sure you do one at a time and all will be smooth. I placed mines just behind the firewall, as if I was changing a tire. I didn't want it under the subframe because as I loosen the bushings...I wanted the weight of the engine to break the rust sealed bushings apart. Then I took another jack (you could do this with one jack) and jacked the frame back up to tighten the new one. You may have to pry them out a little because of the rust. The engine should do most of it for you. Hope this helps you out. Be safe!
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#9
#10
replacing subframe bushings
Here is what I did guy's and I didn't have any issues at all. I used one jack and centered it between the front and rear subframe. I hade my Wife to jack it up enough to know I had the weight of it. I removed the front and rear bolt and had her slowly let it down until I could remove the upper bushing on both front and rear. I replaced with new bushings (Dorman pt # 924-001) @ the tune of $57.99 each @ Orielys. As she jacked it up it helped to push the new bushings in. Then I replaced the lower bushings and bolts and torqued to specs. I repeated the same process on the passenger side and all went smooth without any problems. from start to finish 1 hr. 15 min. I hope this helps someone.