Hello everyone I am at a loss I think I may have set the distributor shaft to oil pump a tooth or so off. I have been kicking myself a lot today so can some one help me thru this? 1997 3.9 Dakota. New long block so I don't want to screw anything up.. I think I need to walk thru the works if anyone has a way for me to fix this I am all ears.. To be truthful I am not sure I know the correct procedure for the 1997. The book we have starts in 2000 so I haven't been able to get the scoop.. Anything will help. Thanks

 

Look at the procedure for distributor R&R in the repair manual. Should be the same from 92-01.... (or, whenever they stopped using the 3.9) Need to set #1 to firing position. Piston at TDC, both valves closed, then, line up the distributor rotor with the not notch in the distributor body, and some mark or other on the intake. (should be pics in the manual of where things are at.) That should get you baseline close, and the engine *should* run, need to do final adjustment with a scan tool that can read fuel sync. (which is what you are setting.)

 

Ok I do have one question is it possible to get it a tooth off? the long block didn't come with the distributor shaft. I am not sure I had the alignment straight when I set the shaft in. So I guess if I set it up like you described and it isn't right I need to do the screw driver thing to pull the shaft up and re-align it pointing the right direction.. Gosh I hope I am making sense.

 

Yes. You need to clock the intermediate shaft (drive gear) and distributor as a combined system. Not quite as easy as a chevy. Has the long block already been primed by driving the oil pump with a drill?

Put the cap on the dizzy base. Sharpie where the #1 terminal is, ON THE BASE. Remove the cap. place rotor in line with this mark. Observe the slot in the distributor shaft, Couple the intermediate shaft to the distributor shaft (outside the engine). Sharpie the gear where that #1 mark is at. Now put the engine at TDC compression stroke on cylinder 1. Drop the intermediate shaft in, ensuring that the #1 mark stays pointing towards the #1 cylinder. If it will not drop into the oil pump, use a long 5/16" allen wrench (or, preferably, the priming tool) to turn the oil pump, then try again. When you can get the gear to line up properly to #1, fully engaged to the oil pump and the cam gear, then drop the dizzy body in, double check position of the rotor, and put the cap on.

 

Yes it came pre-primed and had oil all over that is why I wanted an ATK engine I heard they were pretty good. I actually had it running a little but had to hold everything over tight so that is why I ask if it was possible to be a tooth off. As soon as we can get back at it after we see what this snow does we will turn the shaft back up and fish it out and follow these instructions. Thank you so much I was searching and couldn't get anything to go by like this.. Thanks I will let you know how I make out.. God Bless!!

 

Unfortunately, accurately timing an engine is kind of a new thing. Back in the day of carbs, you just stabbed it in and turned the distributor until it lined up. Absolute location didn't matter.

On EFI, absolute location matters. Or, if you've ever used a large HEI style distributor that only clears the firewall and/or intake in EXACTLY one way. That's how the distributor on the dragster is. One tooth left, it hits the manifold. One tooth right, the other side hits the manifold. There's exactly one tooth that lines up, and it takes us a couple stabs to get it there.

 

Ya I only did it for awhile but the big HEI systems that were around in the early eighties were different I used to use the old Sun interrogator that was a monster. It did make life easier when diagnosing something. This new stuff is greek to me I Painted and Preached for the last 30 years so I kinda lost some of my Mechanical stamina... Thanks for your help I will let you know how it turns out..Hoping this snow will let my buddy work in the shop tomorrow. He plows snow when they need him so I am hoping. I will post a couple pics when I am done she should look pretty good under the hood. Have A Great and Blessed one!!

 

You'll need a scaning tool to set the "fuel sync" once you have it running. Factory acceptance range is +7 degrees to -7 degrees. That's when you start turning the distributor with the engine running.

 

Got it going and with your directions I got it right off it didn't even turn over that it was running. Fuel sync ok this is all new to me you say it is a scanning tool could you elaborate a bit for me? I will have to ask around about that it is new to me so sounds like I need to have a real pro in that for sure.. I am loading it with a new computer, stainless steel headers and an after marker air system so I want the fuel right for sure. I don't plan on horsing it I just want the power n torque there if I want or need it. I also sent for a Florida Torque Converter. I will call around.. Thanks !! Oh BTW I lived in the DFW area for several years when I was younger. I ran a shop called Dallas Tune-up Center on Greenville ave close to the Granada Theater. Great area back then ... We loved going to Cowtown Speedway... Have a Blessed day Brother!!
PS would this do the trick or waste of my money I have wanted one anyway..
FOXWELL NT301 OBD2 Scanner Professional Enhanced OBDII Diagnostic Code Reader Just a thought I am always playing with something..

 

The term "Scanning tool" was a little vague as I used it.

A Chrysler DRB3, a Snap-On Modus, or a Snap-on MT2000 should be able to set the fuel sync. There's a couple other tools out there as well. If it runs, then you're at least in the ballpark now.

For just fooling around for OBD2 troubleshooting, my go-to devices are a Ultragage and the Ancel AD310.