Radiator Swap problems....solution?
#71
Is there a reason why you would not want to convert to a serp. belt system? Moving the motor back, at the least is going to make it harder to pull the transmission after everything is done.
And if you sink the radiator into the support, then you would have to put your fans where the condenser is now. That in turn is going to eliminate the possibility of AC.
And if you sink the radiator into the support, then you would have to put your fans where the condenser is now. That in turn is going to eliminate the possibility of AC.
New Timing cover
New Timing cover Gasket
New Water Pump
New Water Pump Gasket
Different Harmonic balancer (uses different timing marks I believe)
New Alternator pulley or Alternator
New Crank Pulley
New Power Steering Pulley
Possibly New PS Bracket
New Alternator Bracket
Delete Cam Arm for existing Mech Fuel Pump
New Belt
Something else I'm forgetting I'm sure
Plus serpentine with old School Carb just doesn't seem right
#72
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...d-v8-swap.html
I use the OEM radiator and have a 318 LA engine. Pulled the engine approx. 3/4" rearwards. The transmission crossmember bolt hole slots were enlarged.
I use the OEM radiator and have a 318 LA engine. Pulled the engine approx. 3/4" rearwards. The transmission crossmember bolt hole slots were enlarged.
Just curious, did you have to go to custom drive shafts when moving it 3/4"?
#74
Very nice....Don't know how I missed your build thread. However, you've pretty much confirmed what I've concluded, is that to fit the stock radiator you have to move the engine back an inch or so. I measured and my water pump to front of pulley is 5 15/16". From timing cover to front of Radiator is about 5 5/8". So I need a little more than 1/2".
Just curious, did you have to go to custom drive shafts when moving it 3/4"?
Just curious, did you have to go to custom drive shafts when moving it 3/4"?
I have to say, I'm surprized to see just how much trouble Shelby apparently went to on the mount setup. If it really was done to gain an inch or so of set back, it sure seems like he could of used the standard mounting position and offset the mounts instead. I love a mystery
Last edited by ragged89; 07-08-2016 at 12:41 PM.
#75
I doubt any chance of squeezing a condenser in with a pusher fan. Besides it's a convertible...who needs ac
I went to a local fab shop that's well known in our area. Owner was interested in my project and is going to come by house to see it. Says he can build a custom copper and brass radiator for it for 450.00 and have plenty of cooling for 500hp.
I went to a local fab shop that's well known in our area. Owner was interested in my project and is going to come by house to see it. Says he can build a custom copper and brass radiator for it for 450.00 and have plenty of cooling for 500hp.
#76
OUCH!!!!! Thats what I plan to do! But I am trying to keep it as simple as I can. I already have a holley 670 carb, I plan to use the HEI dist. from skip white like you got. Also, I really want to keep the ac if at all possible.
Hopefully you can get the radiator worked out and not have to move the engine!!
BTW if you dont mind me asking, I think I read where you had a radiator for the magnum. If so, could you tell me what the difference is between it and the older style?
Thanks.
#78
Well I got an actual quote for the custom radiator....it's going to cost 750!! I checked into serpentine kits from March and they're in the 450 price range for all the brackets and pulleys. Then I'd have to buy a new timing cover gasket and seal and new dampener. I swear moving the engine back is looking more like an option.
Check my math here:
Custom mount adapters - $150
Drill new holes for transmission cross member - $30
Drill new holes for gear shift linkage - $20
Lokar kickdown cable - $80
Shorten drive shaft - $100
I'm thinking for $400 I could keep the radiator. Might solve my header interference problem too as theres a factory notch further back on the frame for the stock manifolds that might be in the right place for the header collector. Decisions....
Check my math here:
Custom mount adapters - $150
Drill new holes for transmission cross member - $30
Drill new holes for gear shift linkage - $20
Lokar kickdown cable - $80
Shorten drive shaft - $100
I'm thinking for $400 I could keep the radiator. Might solve my header interference problem too as theres a factory notch further back on the frame for the stock manifolds that might be in the right place for the header collector. Decisions....
#79
Hello All,
I'm new here, but saw a thread with a link to this thread on the Dakota Convertible group on Facebook. i own both a Dakota Convertible and a Shelby. i have not read every post on this thread, but i thought i might be able to help you guys doing this swap.
My first thought was looking at the pic of the water pump into the fan is that that pump is WAAAAAY too long. the pulley is also dished too much. the engine in the Shelby is an 89 LA 318 intended for a full sized pickup. the mounts are mounted on a crossmember added by Shelby in front of the Dakota crossmember. it too looks like it was sourced from a full sized pickup. the radiator in the Shelby is the same radiator used with the V6 WITH HEAVY DUTY COOLING. i only found one radiator source with a listing for the Shelby radiator, and after i received it and checked the part number i found this out. everybody can get this radiator as long as you know what to ask for. if you ask for one for the shelby you probably won't find one. it has been a few years since i bought mine but it was $240. at that time and it is all brass. it i remember correctly it is a 3 row. it is mounted in the original position and is not set into a cut core support as has been talked about previously in this thread. the Shelby has a couple tapered shims to space the grill out a bit for clearance for the electric fans in front of the radiator. Schumacher creative services offers the mounts to just bolt in the V8 engine, but are showing "out of stock" they are also almost $400.
http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/Pr....96Dakota.html
if anyone needs pics or measurements email me direct at dcmopar@gmail.com
Doug
I'm new here, but saw a thread with a link to this thread on the Dakota Convertible group on Facebook. i own both a Dakota Convertible and a Shelby. i have not read every post on this thread, but i thought i might be able to help you guys doing this swap.
My first thought was looking at the pic of the water pump into the fan is that that pump is WAAAAAY too long. the pulley is also dished too much. the engine in the Shelby is an 89 LA 318 intended for a full sized pickup. the mounts are mounted on a crossmember added by Shelby in front of the Dakota crossmember. it too looks like it was sourced from a full sized pickup. the radiator in the Shelby is the same radiator used with the V6 WITH HEAVY DUTY COOLING. i only found one radiator source with a listing for the Shelby radiator, and after i received it and checked the part number i found this out. everybody can get this radiator as long as you know what to ask for. if you ask for one for the shelby you probably won't find one. it has been a few years since i bought mine but it was $240. at that time and it is all brass. it i remember correctly it is a 3 row. it is mounted in the original position and is not set into a cut core support as has been talked about previously in this thread. the Shelby has a couple tapered shims to space the grill out a bit for clearance for the electric fans in front of the radiator. Schumacher creative services offers the mounts to just bolt in the V8 engine, but are showing "out of stock" they are also almost $400.
http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/Pr....96Dakota.html
if anyone needs pics or measurements email me direct at dcmopar@gmail.com
Doug