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2nd Gen Dakota 1997 - 2004 Dakota's

Another HOT dakota issue

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  #1  
Old 08-05-2014, 02:05 AM
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Default Another HOT dakota issue

Sorry for the long post.

Dakota getting hot. here is the history

Late last fall had to fix a heater core that was stopped up.
Took off heater hoses and mixed 1 bottle CLR to gallon of water and poured in heater core.
Then water hose to wash out CLR mix. Then air hose.
Repeat until gallon of CLR was gone.
Reattach heater hoses.
Remove T-stat
Then Prestone Radiator Flush per directions on bottle.
Then flush until all clear. (Just found out about the block drain bolts a week ago)
New T-stat and filled with antifreeze.

No trouble out of heater or truck getting hot until about a month ago. When dash cluster had issues.

Month ago or so got hot. BOILING hot not a bad gauge or sending unit coolant
actually over flows the overflow jug.
I'd say now it's more water than antifreeze.

New 195 T-stat.
New pressure cap 16lbs
2 new clutches got at advance 90 day warrenty . thinking bout MAKING them get a better one for same price 50.00

FYI 10% discounts to Vets.

Was working OK after the 1st clutch fan. Then was a little late for a job and had to make up some time.
Running hard up steep grades then started getting hot. turn on heater again to cool down.
If I stay around 2000 RPM temp will stay about 210. limped home.
Changed clutch (to 2nd one) two weeks later and was OK on trip to another job was cool outside about 78 and stayed about 2000 RPM

Today running late high RPMs again and got hot. was about 90 0utside
I did notice at a red light it was about 240 so I revved engine and could not hear fan.
stopped for gas popped the hood and could feel the fan blow but not like (what I think) it should .

I don't think it is the water pump cause runnin the heater cools down the temp hand.
If it was the water pump not circulating water the heater blower wouldn't cool it down.

Don't think the radiator is stopped up but might be. Brother said the mechanics on the strip job he worked on would pour a box of cascade in the radiator of triple 7's and run them a shift to clean them out.
http://static.commercialmotor.com/bi...-blog/Cat2.JPG

Dude at advance already said he would have to order another fan clutch if this one did not work.

Any ideals? I think it is the POS fan clutch from advance should have got it from Rock but had to have it yesterday.
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Old 08-05-2014, 08:38 AM
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If the heater core was clogged, stands to reason the radiator might be inefficient at the very least. If you end up buying one... see my link below. It's the one I've got and I've already done the research. It will cool your truck better than the skinny ones you get from your local auto parts.

Amazon.com: CSF 3516 OEM Style Plastic Tanks and Aluminum core (Manufactured with steel crimps to strengthen radiator by 40% Over O.E.) Dodge Dakota 2000-2002: Automotive Amazon.com: CSF 3516 OEM Style Plastic Tanks and Aluminum core (Manufactured with steel crimps to strengthen radiator by 40% Over O.E.) Dodge Dakota 2000-2002: Automotive



Oh and not to scare you, but with the multiple overheats you might want to think about the head gasket.
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Old 08-05-2014, 10:43 AM
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Not you see the older engines 5.2, 5.9 and 3.9 can take getting overheated a number of times so its ok. Most older simpler engines take overheating well seen some Chevy's like the 350's and 325 get super hot and live on no problem.


I'm thinking you may have a clogged rad or a weak pump you could drop down to a 180 stat and see what happens.
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Old 08-05-2014, 11:12 AM
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I will definitely endorse switching to 180 stat. Also 16 lb cap seems aweful low, I want to say I have a 18-20 on mine? We run a 24 on the dragster.

Sounds to me like you're a good candidate for the mark 8 fan swap.

does your truck have an electric fan in front of the clutch fan? Should be a 14" POS that comes on at 210.

The clutch fan, if working right, should sound like a 787 taking off.
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Old 08-05-2014, 02:11 PM
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Unless it was differnt for the 3.9's the 97 Kota's didnt come with the electric fans.. mine sure didn't..

But sounds like the clutch fan is not kicking in.. I'd take that mess back to Advanced and get my money back.. I got one from there the name brand that starts with a z i think it is they sell.. severe duty (which is cheaper one) and Heavy Duty which is more Factory (maybe IDK?) i forget it was alot lighter than the stocker that came off and it acts alot different than stock clutches as result..

if its up to temps and you dont hear the roar of the fan then thats your issue. As magnent head suggested you might could possibly think about switching to electric; dont even need the Linicon fan you can get away with the liberty fan mounted to your stock shroud like i did with my 5.2L should do you well enough.

This is in the DIY post second post in the fan section in case you loose the link..

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...fan-setup.html
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Old 08-05-2014, 02:49 PM
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@ Dodgevity

I was afraid of blowin' a head gasket as well. When it got that hot I was still enroute so I backed out of the peddle.
I kept checkin on the oil and see no sign of coolant in it. Not seein any steam out the tail pipe.
Heater core was clogged because PO put stop leak in. Found that out when I changed the heater hoses.
PO had a splice in one hose and it was leaking.

Although now with that said he may have poured in the stop leak because there was a head gasket leak. Who knows?

@ 98DAKAZ

Yes this engine is tough as nails. I was thinking about a clogged radiator as well.
I was also thinkin about a weak pump, but it is not leakin, new pump put on about 5 year ago.
Belt is worn but still in good shape. Can a water pump get weak?
The old T-stat was 180 when I got the new one I didn't even check the temp until I was home.

@ magnethead

The old cap was 16lbs. When I asked for a new on parts guy got it and was 16lbs also.
No electric fan. Just engine coolant rad and AC condenser. No electric fan of any kind.

As far as putting on a efan I was thinking about that a few years back. I got 2 two position fans (high low)
from a ford taurus and was thinking about mounting them some way. just to get more HP.
Then a while back I seen you post
http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...at-hurt-4.html
And that looks good. Thanks for the schematic.
I wanted to have a factory looking mount / fan shroud that covered the entire radiator then supported the fan.
To let the fan pull the air through the entire radiator.
May just have to use zip ties, mount one efan in front of the AC condenser as a pusher on a toggle switch for now.


Thanks all for the comments and let you guys know what happens.
I think I'll flush everything out GOOD. Make (we'll see how that goes) advance get a better quality clutch. They can pay the a shop the labor if a shop has to change warranty parts. (per brother he worked at a auto parts about 5 years ago) So I see what they will do for me.
Then zip tie one of those efans and see how that works
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Old 08-05-2014, 04:51 PM
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I might suggest you take the radiator off, bring it to a radiator shop, and have them flush it and flow test it. Stop leak can clog it too.

You shouldn't need an electric fan. If the clutch fan isn't working get another. Maybe even a used one from the boneyard - Mopar.

The truck is 17 years old and didn't need an electric fan when new. Fix the problem not treat the symptom.
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Old 08-06-2014, 10:57 AM
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@ jondakotaguy

You must have posted while I was replying. Any way, I like your setup.
Was checking out the link you gave but haven't went all the way through it yet.
Looks good and that is what I want to get more MPG and HP.


@ 00DakDan

Yes Sir you are correct about FIXIN' the problem.
Just got finished troubleshooting network issues for a Super8 hotel.
Their fix was powercycle everything. (treating the symptom)
Took me 2 visits (about 4 hours each),but found (packet sniffin) and corrected the problem.
There had been at least 3 other guys out that finally gave up,
because they could not fix it.
At least 2 others that didn't want anything to do with it.
So you are right "Fix the problem not treat the symptom."

I stopped and talked to my mechanic yesterday.
Not a ASE part changes but a mechanics. Father and son team.
Was told that 9 time out of 10 is going to be the rad core stopped up
since I did all the stuff I did already.
I guess the Prestone flush I did last year didn't work or something.
Anyway, they said to empty all antifreeze flush with water a few times.
Put in a cup of Iron Out and fill with water. Run a few days. Empty and repeat
two or three times and then fill with antifreeze. I'll try that.

I cannot fit the Taurus fan in front of AC condenser as a pusher.
Not enough clearance for the hood. I do want the Efan but right now I want it reliable.
After I'm sure that the stock setup will keep the Dakota cool then I make changes.
Don't want to sound negative, but been reading the Efan customizations
and seems some have had mixed results.

If I make sure the stock setup is fixed then I'll mod away.

Will keep you guys posted.
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Old 08-06-2014, 11:45 AM
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the lincoln/taurus fan replaces the clutch fan as a puller. I would suggest gettin it from rockauto though, the motor on my junkyard unit burned out after 1.5 years.
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Old 08-06-2014, 12:56 PM
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Worst case, if the iron out doesn't work try a radiator shop. They can even take it apart and rod it if they have too. Not sure of the cost vs. China junk nowadays.

Good luck.
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Old 08-06-2014, 01:07 PM
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I suggest a new Rad

after the iron out you may find your rad springs a few leaks look for a quality replacement Rad or a heavy duty rad multi pass get it local if possible. I just don't trust most delivery services these days.
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Old 08-06-2014, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerKilgore View Post
Was told that 9 time out of 10 is going to be the rad core stopped up
since I did all the stuff I did already.
I guess the Prestone flush I did last year didn't work or something.
Anyway, they said to empty all antifreeze flush with water a few times.
Put in a cup of Iron Out and fill with water. Run a few days. Empty and repeat
two or three times and then fill with antifreeze. I'll try that.
Might as well bite the bullet and upgrade that 17yo radiator. When I got my truck, I flushed mine but quickly after, It was leaking from the seams. I could have rebent the crimps but I went with new so I'd never have to look back.

Here is my radiator thread which explains why I went with the CSF. I have the heavy duty tow pkg, btw.

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...-radiator.html
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Old 08-06-2014, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Dodgevity View Post
Might as well bite the bullet and upgrade that 17yo radiator. When I got my truck, I flushed mine but quickly after, It was leaking from the seams. I could have rebent the crimps but I went with new so I'd never have to look back.

Here is my radiator thread which explains why I went with the CSF. I have the heavy duty tow pkg, btw.

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...-radiator.html
CSF in mine as well. Now that I re-read your thread, I wonder if I got the 1.25 or 1.63 single row or 1.5 double row.
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Old 08-07-2014, 12:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodgevity View Post
After reading this may have another cause for my issue.

I got a ladder rack. 6' 8' & 10' ladders. diamond plate tool box full of stuff (2 and 4 lb sledge crowbar chisels 2' 3' and 6' flex drill bits. the 6' bits in the bars of ladder rack) . 2' plastic tool box full of stuff. 110 air compressor. 3 boxes of cable (2 cat5, 1 coax) metal suit case with inserts, face plates etc. shovel, mattock, fishin poles tackle box chair garbage cooler and who knows what else.

I might not be towin' anything but I'm hauling a lot.
might be the fluid-fluid-coolant air thing head was talkin about.

But yea I think your right about bittin the bullet and getting a ne radiator.
Not to mention I just noticed last night trans line leaking where they connect to the hose under the radiator.

got to go Early Culyer is meeting Patrick Swayze STUPID MONKEY
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Old 08-07-2014, 01:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerKilgore View Post
After reading this may have another cause for my issue.

I got a ladder rack. 6' 8' & 10' ladders. diamond plate tool box full of stuff (2 and 4 lb sledge crowbar chisels 2' 3' and 6' flex drill bits. the 6' bits in the bars of ladder rack) . 2' plastic tool box full of stuff. 110 air compressor. 3 boxes of cable (2 cat5, 1 coax) metal suit case with inserts, face plates etc. shovel, mattock, fishin poles tackle box chair garbage cooler and who knows what else.

I might not be towin' anything but I'm hauling a lot.
might be the fluid-fluid-coolant air thing head was talkin about.

But yea I think your right about bittin the bullet and getting a ne radiator.
Not to mention I just noticed last night trans line leaking where they connect to the hose under the radiator.

got to go Early Culyer is meeting Patrick Swayze STUPID MONKEY
you're definitely hauling alot of weight. Like i mentioned in that thread, the way the radiator is designed, the hot coolant is supposed to warm the trans to operating temperature in winter, but that also means during summer you have hot trans, hot coolant, and airflow is your friend.

I would definitely suggest replacing the radiator, it's cheap and easy (well, it's easy on the newer body…not sure about the older body) and doesn't take long. If you think you might be getting the trans hot, take another big bill and add an auxiliary cooler under the bed with a fan on it like I did. It's fairly easy.

I have the CSF radiator up front with the lincoln mark 8 fan set to come on at 190 (via SCT), and a derale 16 pass cooler under the bed with a 10" fan wired with the mark 8 fan. It make for a very high current draw, but heat's not an issue. Today it was 101 at the airport and my water temp bounced between 188 and 190 with the A/C on (which means both fans are on). So now you have the heat of the AC condenser heating the already hot coolant heating up the trans fluid. But with the airflow of the mark 8 fan plus the aid of the trans cooler and fan, trans stays around 170 and water around 190.

I plumbed the aux cooler into the rear return port which goes to the tailhousing of the transmission. The front pump pushes fluid out, and it returns in the tailshaft.
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Old 08-07-2014, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
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...
I plumbed the aux cooler into the rear return port which goes to the tailhousing of the transmission. The front pump pushes fluid out, and it returns in the tailshaft.
In '90 had and '80 Firebird Formula the fitting in radiator for trans line stripped.
The AC did work anyway so I used the AC condenser as a trans fluid cooler.
Worked like a charm. Think I plumed the fluid coming in the top and the return from the bottom.

Owned that car for 5 years. Went through 3 engines (305,350 400), 1 extra set of heads,
2 transmissions (400 turbos). When I traded it off you could throw a football through the oil pan.
I was going uphill doing 80 and pulled it down into 2nd and never let off the gas.
One night going up other side of the same hill after rain.
In a curve the a$$ end passed the front end.
Went 200' uphill backward in ditch.

YES, Very dumb back then and not much smarter now.
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Old 08-07-2014, 02:39 PM
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So you've had 2 back to back fan clutches fail on your I'd think thats a major issue. And the question reamins when they were working did the cooling system work? From what it sounds like you dont really have a working cooling system atm.. the fan is just free spinning with the engine not really pulling much> and i agree with dak mag and all; if you got the cash for a new rad go for it.. I would in my truck and debating on doing it for the hell of it as i redo my cooling system again.


secondly you should have enough room and ability to 'rig' up an Aux fan or something between the rad and the mech. fan being the 3.9 has a big ol shroud on her there's alot of room there if you wanted to keep it 'factory' with the mechanical fan you could at least wrie the aux fan up to a toggle.

or lastly if you wanted to go strait electric fan your year model and engine you should have enough room to put the mark Viii fan shroud and all on there and then put a controller... you should have plenty of room for that.

Lucky Lucky
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Old 08-08-2014, 11:28 PM
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Yesterday 8/7/14 after puttin 60ish miles on water/ iron out.
Popped cap on radiator. Black water. Drained and flushed rad and engine 3 times.
Filled water and another cup of iron out. Made sure overflow tank was full.

Read someone, don't remenber who, said something about a T-shirt test.
So I revved engine a little. T-shirt hung to condenser by fan suckin air.
Let engine idle and 3 - 4 seconds after engine was idling the T-shirt fell.
Guess the fan is suckin.

Put 180ish miles today. will drain and refill tomorrow. Temp got about 210 was cool out and off and on rain.

When I first drained the antifreeze out on 8/6/14.
Did find black silicone stuck to the inside of the hose on waterpump side.
When I changed the waterpump 5? years ago I didn't put silly cone on it.
Hope the iron out only eats the silly cone that blockin the radiator passages. If that is what made the water black.

Any one remember when the bottom radiator hoses had a spring in them to keep them from collapsing?

I found a place today that had 3 radiators. $50.00 plus my old one, 30 day warranty. Only problem it's a 115 mile trip one way.
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Old 08-09-2014, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
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CSF in mine as well. Now that I re-read your thread, I wonder if I got the 1.25 or 1.63 single row or 1.5 double row.
How long ago did you get it? I doubt they even make a double row, so you're probably good. Did you save a reciept or order it online? I'm ****... I scan everything (paperless for years now) and save all online purchases in an email folder called "purchases". LOL
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Old 08-09-2014, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
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How long ago did you get it? I doubt they even make a double row, so you're probably good. Did you save a reciept or order it online? I'm ****... I scan everything (paperless for years now) and save all online purchases in an email folder called "purchases". LOL
they do. 1.25" single row, 1.5" double row, and 1.63" single row.
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