Removing Cam bearing
#1
Removing Cam bearing
So as im prepping (cleaning and detailing) the block for the new heads and cam ive noticed that bearing number 4 (front to back) is shot! I have already ordered new bearings along with the installation tool but im starting to wonder if its even possible to replace all 5 bearings without pulling out the block??? I thought I read in some forum that you can but im not 100% sure
#3
#4
I would but i dont have the time nor the resources to do it. I'm working on it outside in my college apartment's parking lot and im just hoping that they dont see my project or they will ask me to removing it from the lot . If i were to pull of the block than i might as well get it resurfaced, cleaned and machined out but than again i dont have the $Benjies$ to do it, I'm already waaay over my spending limit on this project... I know that the furthest one to the back is impossible to remove without having to take out the plug. sooo can i still just replace the other bearings without pulling out the block?
Last edited by sinus19; 02-28-2012 at 11:11 PM.
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#9
You should be able to get the #4 out and a new one in without pulling the block. You may very well need to remove the radiator though, and possibly even remove the AC condenser. You must pull the block to remove all the bearings from the block as the front one requires removing the Welch plug in the back to pound it out from the back. The lip that holds it in place makes it impossible to drive out from the front.
When you get that tool, it should have an extension with it. You can use that extension to get to the #4 bearing if the longer part won't fit. Put a deep well socket over the threaded rod and a socket extension in the deep well socket and bang on that to get the proper length to reach the #4 bearing. Stuff a bunch of rags in the block to catch the bearing when it comes out do you don't have to fish out the old bearing from the oil pan, or drop the pan to remove it.
Be darn sure to line up the oiling hole in the new bearing with the oil passage in the block. I believe it's at the bottom of the bearing's mating surface (6 o'clock position), but BE SURE. Might even want to snake a wire down that oil passage just to make sure it isn't blocked by the shavings of the old cam bearing you are relpacing.
I did a thread with a cam swap over at bionicdodge.com with an explanation of what I did with the cam tool, I'll try to find it and post it here.
Ah, here it is: http://www.bionicdodge.com/bionic/in...topic=10232.15
When you get that tool, it should have an extension with it. You can use that extension to get to the #4 bearing if the longer part won't fit. Put a deep well socket over the threaded rod and a socket extension in the deep well socket and bang on that to get the proper length to reach the #4 bearing. Stuff a bunch of rags in the block to catch the bearing when it comes out do you don't have to fish out the old bearing from the oil pan, or drop the pan to remove it.
Be darn sure to line up the oiling hole in the new bearing with the oil passage in the block. I believe it's at the bottom of the bearing's mating surface (6 o'clock position), but BE SURE. Might even want to snake a wire down that oil passage just to make sure it isn't blocked by the shavings of the old cam bearing you are relpacing.
I did a thread with a cam swap over at bionicdodge.com with an explanation of what I did with the cam tool, I'll try to find it and post it here.
Ah, here it is: http://www.bionicdodge.com/bionic/in...topic=10232.15
Last edited by aim4squirrels; 03-01-2012 at 08:37 AM.
#10
You should be able to get the #4 out and a new one in without pulling the block. You may very well need to remove the radiator though, and possibly even remove the AC condenser. You must pull the block to remove all the bearings from the block as the front one requires removing the Welch plug in the back to pound it out from the back. The lip that holds it in place makes it impossible to drive out from the front.
When you get that tool, it should have an extension with it. You can use that extension to get to the #4 bearing if the longer part won't fit. Put a deep well socket over the threaded rod and a socket extension in the deep well socket and bang on that to get the proper length to reach the #4 bearing. Stuff a bunch of rags in the block to catch the bearing when it comes out do you don't have to fish out the old bearing from the oil pan, or drop the pan to remove it.
Be darn sure to line up the oiling hole in the new bearing with the oil passage in the block. I believe it's at the bottom of the bearing's mating surface (6 o'clock position), but BE SURE. Might even want to snake a wire down that oil passage just to make sure it isn't blocked by the shavings of the old cam bearing you are relpacing.
I did a thread with a cam swap over at bionicdodge.com with an explanation of what I did with the cam tool, I'll try to find it and post it here.
Ah, here it is: http://www.bionicdodge.com/bionic/in...topic=10232.15
When you get that tool, it should have an extension with it. You can use that extension to get to the #4 bearing if the longer part won't fit. Put a deep well socket over the threaded rod and a socket extension in the deep well socket and bang on that to get the proper length to reach the #4 bearing. Stuff a bunch of rags in the block to catch the bearing when it comes out do you don't have to fish out the old bearing from the oil pan, or drop the pan to remove it.
Be darn sure to line up the oiling hole in the new bearing with the oil passage in the block. I believe it's at the bottom of the bearing's mating surface (6 o'clock position), but BE SURE. Might even want to snake a wire down that oil passage just to make sure it isn't blocked by the shavings of the old cam bearing you are relpacing.
I did a thread with a cam swap over at bionicdodge.com with an explanation of what I did with the cam tool, I'll try to find it and post it here.
Ah, here it is: http://www.bionicdodge.com/bionic/in...topic=10232.15
Here is little Sneak peak of thee project...
Last edited by sinus19; 03-01-2012 at 05:18 PM.