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Skyjacker 501 kit install questions

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  #1  
Old 09-28-2013, 09:36 AM
InfO InfO is offline
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Default Skyjacker 501 kit install questions

So,

As I install this kit, which I'm taking my time to do, I figured I'd put up a thread where I can ask questions as I go along rather than putting them all in individual threads.

With that in mind, some of the last ones:

Wheels : http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...ng-wheels.html

Leaf Springs : http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...eye-bolts.html

So for those that have installed this, how did you install the bump stop for the rear axle? The old one was bolted on, the new one does not look like it bolts on at all. Here are some pictures:





InfO.
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Old 09-28-2013, 10:26 AM
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Wonder if you need to modify the factory bracket.... didn't come with one did it?
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Old 09-28-2013, 10:39 AM
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Did you get 4 of those?

That one is for the front. Front ones are inserted to the existing bracket. You can pull out with pliers, good pull and twist. Insert new ones and if you're heavy with the soft SJ springs you can bounce the front down to push in. That will still only be part way. So get a spacer like a 4x4 or 2x4 etc. Put jack on front bumper to raise it enough to get bumpstop in while spacer is sitting on the axle pad. Bring truck down to compress the bumpstop in.
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Old 09-28-2013, 10:59 AM
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Hmmm.... ****e.

I don't see other ones in the box... or any other box. ****.

I'll have to look a little more.

Right now I'm about to bolt in the new leafs, lift the axle and put on the new shocks.

Thanks for that info though... now I might have to see about ordering new ones as the old ones are beaten, plus all four bolts snapped taking them off.
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Old 09-28-2013, 11:25 AM
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Alright, leafs are in - though not tightened up. Not sure how tight the shackle to leaf bolt is supposed to be - I'll have to check my manual - it seems to sit at the angle it needs, so I'm assuming it's GTG once the two bolts are in (frame to leaf and frame to shackle).

Here is a picture - I had to put the axle on the ground once the new leaf was sitting in place. No way I'd get the block on when it was up on jacks.



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Old 09-28-2013, 11:48 AM
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The ubolts can be tqed now, the rest of the suspension bolts get tightened when the truck is sitting on the ground and the suspension has a load on it. You don't get new rear bumpstops with the kit, if you feel you need them longer space them out with a some square steel or whatever.

WN: There was no way I could bounce my truck like that with the Sj springs in it.
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Old 09-28-2013, 11:56 AM
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Merc,

Thanks for the info! We're just tightening the eye bolts to take up slack at the moment. Going to get another buddy to come over and hold the axle while we put it all together.

The block between the axle and leaf spring, it looks a LOT larger in the picture in the kit. Oh well, still using mine and I'll likely order new rear bumps as the ones I have are solid, cracked, and in general do not look so good. Thanks for letting me know the kit doesn't come with them though. Hope to have the rear axle all together in about 2 hours. More pictures to follow!

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Old 09-28-2013, 12:01 PM
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Take your time getting that diff in and make sure you get it in straight, many think just put the pin in the hole but there is slop in there use a tape and make sure both sides are spot on. Measure form the diff to a spot on the frame for each side, I found I could be up to a 1/4 out either way.
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Old 09-28-2013, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merc225hp View Post
Take your time getting that diff in and make sure you get it in straight, many think just put the pin in the hole but there is slop in there use a tape and make sure both sides are spot on. Measure form the diff to a spot on the frame for each side, I found I could be up to a 1/4 out either way.
That's good info to know about. I'll get it up and loosely into the ubolts so that I can then adjust it as required.

You mention putting a pin in the hole. Are you talking about the small bolt head on the leaf spring center that sits into the small recess on the block that sits on the axle?

I noticed that the leafs has an angled shim attached to the bottom. I know the wider end goes towards the rear. It also came with shims, but I think that was for the add a leaf. What it didn't come with was a plate that rests ontop of the leaf springs for the ubolts to sit into. I took the one off the old leaf packs.

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Old 09-28-2013, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InfO View Post
That's good info to know about. I'll get it up and loosely into the ubolts so that I can then adjust it as required.

You mention putting a pin in the hole. Are you talking about the small bolt head on the leaf spring center that sits into the small recess on the block that sits on the axle?

I noticed that the leafs has an angled shim attached to the bottom. I know the wider end goes towards the rear. It also came with shims, but I think that was for the add a leaf. What it didn't come with was a plate that rests ontop of the leaf springs for the ubolts to sit into. I took the one off the old leaf packs.

InfO.
Thats what I did, not fun when working by yourself.

Yes sorry the leaf pack center bolt that goes into the block then into the diff pad.

Yep just use the old plates for the top of the springs.

Do you have the Sj pdf for this install? you can Dl it from there site. Look for Sj 501K-h pdf.

Leaving the bolts loose goes for the front end control arms as well, inner outer upper lower all of them (8) should be tightened once on the ground.
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Old 09-28-2013, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merc225hp View Post
Thats what I did, not fun when working by yourself.

Yes sorry the leaf pack center bolt that goes into the block then into the diff pad.

Yep just use the old plates for the top of the springs.

Do you have the Sj pdf for this install? you can Dl it from there site. Look for Sj 501K-h pdf.

Leaving the bolts loose goes for the front end control arms as well, inner outer upper lower all of them (8) should be tightened once on the ground.
I have NO clue how you did this solo... We've got two jacks and we're still fighting to get all the pins lined up. I'm about to rip to Canadian Tire to pick up some deep seated impact sockets so I can finish up the ubolt nylon nuts.

Pictures:









Pretty much finding that it's taking a fair bit of playing to try and get all the pins lined up. Seems like the axle might be tilted forward too much, but sorting through it.

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Old 09-28-2013, 01:35 PM
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Merc, either you weigh like a buck or my springs are just THAT soft. hahahah

Quote:
Originally Posted by InfO View Post
I noticed that the leafs has an angled shim attached to the bottom. I know the wider end goes towards the rear. It also came with shims, but I think that was for the add a leaf. What it didn't come with was a plate that rests ontop of the leaf springs for the ubolts to sit into. I took the one off the old leaf packs.

InfO.

As for the shim, what makes you think the wide part points to the rear? When you add lift and no shim the pinion angle rotates up. You need to push it back down with the shim, which means putting the wide part on the pinion side.

Do you have 2 floor jacks? Best to put one on the pinion, use a wood block. That way you can rotate at will. 2nd jack goes right under the pumpkin. What also helps are ratchet straps around the axle tube to back by bumper. This will allow you to pull axle back in a controlled manner.

Also, it should be easier w/o the rear of the spring bolted up while doing the ubolts on the axle.
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Last edited by Wh1t3NuKle; 09-28-2013 at 01:37 PM.. Reason: added last sentence
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Old 09-28-2013, 01:47 PM
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WN; I weight 190lb I think your springs are done for. I can bounce my truck 1/2-1" max thats it, like just me on the bumper and these are still gas springs for now.


OP; Shoot us some pix of the pinion when on the ground, the Sj rear springs also move the diff forward just a bit. I spent a good four hours under the truck doing this work. I also had to go back twice to fix or change some things after the truck was on the ground things change when under its own weight. If you think you have to much pinion angle swap the blocks side to side this will change it about 3 d if I remember right WN might have more infor on that.
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Old 09-28-2013, 02:44 PM
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I took that info out of the instructions - they state to have the wide end of the shim facing the rear end of the truck. Which states then that the longer part of the leaf is on the rear end as well.

The pictures above show the angle of the shim - wide is pointing to the rear.

I'll hook up the racket strap and change where the jacks are.

Edit:

Yeah, I double checked the instructions. The one wedge is right in the leaf pack, the other wedges came loose. Here is a picture of the instructions:



InfO.

Last edited by InfO; 09-28-2013 at 02:47 PM..
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Old 09-28-2013, 02:53 PM
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Thats is the way to put them in your on track. You can't swap springs end for end that will not work. There are small heals cast into the lift blocks if needed you can grind one side off each block this will let you fine tune the pinion angle if you feel the need, they must be ground the same for both side as close as possible, even the back heels will need a touch of grinding.
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Old 09-28-2013, 03:35 PM
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Alright, I've tightened them up. Here are a few pictures - I will tighten more once I get the shock absorbers on, drums, wheels, and lower onto itself to absorb some of the weight.







Also, I measured from the center of the tube between the ubolts and the backside of the drum to the forward eye bolt on the leaf spring - seems to be 29 3/4" both sides. My buddy is doing a measure right now as well to see if he comes up with the same thing.
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Old 09-28-2013, 03:51 PM
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Looks all good to me, does not matter what his truck is just as long as they are both the same #'s on each side. from what I can see and yes it's not on the ground yet but the pinion angle looks good as well.
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:09 PM
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Naw, I meant he is measuring it on my truck as well. You know, someone else to check to make sure I can do math ;o)

Tightened it up a bit, just put in the shocks. Pictures:







And now are about to try and jack it all up from the axle, put on the drums and toss on my old tires (new ones aren't on wheels yet).
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:38 PM
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Annnnnnd... touch down!

*** end is on the ground:

Old tires and wheels...


About to lower it...


Touchdown!


Diff


Stuff to be done still...


I know, brake lines have to be moved / adjusted, lots of that stuff has to be done. Torquing down bolts, etc. But I'm happy the *** end is done.

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Old 09-28-2013, 04:53 PM
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Hey now what's with this red brake drum thing going on ??????

Looks good bud nice work, well done. It needs 37's

For bending the brake line tubing I use three 1/4 drive sockets screwed to a piece of plywood, then I bend around them. Put the tubing down on the wood, then screw one socket to the board on the underside of the tubing then one on the topside of the tubing about 3/4" back from the first one. This will let you make most bends without crushing the tube. The third socket it to be placed wherever you need it to make odd bends. NO pliers or needle nose or anything with a sharp edge should be used to bend a line, you will kink it for sure.

I can post a pic if you need one.
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Last edited by merc225hp; 09-28-2013 at 05:02 PM..
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